Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

My M/Cylinder is mounted the same as yours. If the M/Cylinder is mounted below any of the wheel cylinders or callipers it doesn't matter as you will need a leak in the system for it to back feed. JW

 

So, I don't need a 10 lb. for the drums?

 

A 10 lb on the drums and a 2 lb on the discs will give you a better pedal feel. The roadster my brother used to have also had the m/c below the floor but didn't have the valves and he had to pump the pedal a time or two before the car would begin to stop. I believe the conventional wisdom is to mount the valves as close to the m\c as is practical.

Bad decisions make good stories.

 

That's also what I've been told and what I've done (10# drums. 2# discs).
http://www.jegs.com/i/Right-Stuff/965/RV10/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Right-Stuff/965/RV02/10002/-1
Glad you did the rear bracket too, Fred.
I've asked many people about proportioning valves, and the consensus is that it really depends on the final weight, brake bias (size of all components) , tire size and suspension stiffness. You can go by similar builds, but each car is a bit different. Some guys that build rods go ahead and install one during the build so they don't have to modify after final finish. Others will leave it out unless it's really needed. Since you are on a budget and willing to make changes as needed, I'd say worry about that after the first test drive.

 

Fred, if the M/Cylinder doesn't have residual valves fitted then do fit them as t-rod said. Mine has them fitted. JW

 

I ordered the fittings for my residual valve already. I'll install it and she how she handles, when she gets on the road. Which will be a while.

 

You are heading the right way....that's cool, its all cool. JW

 

Well, after work I came home and did a LOT of web searching on residual valves in Hot Rods. The results were mixed, as far residual valves go. But the underlying factor was, I should go with a 10 psi and a 2 psi residual valve. So, I went down and figured out where I'd put them. And that's when a 20 minute project turned into a 1 hour brain session. End factor? I redid the lines and made them look better.

I let the groove of classic rock guide my hands and mind. Yea, I got artistic and cosmic. Here's the end result. The residual valves are just mocked in for fit. The fittings for the 10 psi will be here Wednesday.








I called my guy at ""O'Rielly's" and he says he may have the fittings for the other residual valve (I only ordered 1 for the 10 psi). I'll swing by on my day off and search his waaaaay unorganized brake parts bin.

 

Looks nice but have you checked for brake peddle to brake line clearance when the peddle is fully depressed, like when bleeding the brakes. JW

 

Come on, man! Yup! Full range of motion.

 

My question is Fred, do you guys have to run brake lights and if yes, have you thought where and what type of switch you will use ? Mine is in the line to the front brakes but no photo to show sorry.

 

Just lookin out for ya Fred , Good question Marc as I am looking at replacing mine as it screwed into the back of the 39 Ford M/cylinder (now replaced) as it used tread tape to seal and I don't want any of that on my brakes. JW

 

I like the small mechanical one Speedway sells. Works great and independent of the brake lines.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Mechanical-Brake-Light-Switch,1972.html

 

Guys, just wanted you to know how much this thread has improved my '28 Tudor project.

The principles you're advocating; simplification, following a theme, no superfluous parts, craftsmanship, etc. should apply to all our rods & customs.

So here's my contribution- a few scanned pages from a book off my shelf. Hope these pics provide some food for thought:

 

A few more:

 

Hey Gary,
Nice photos scans from the 67 magazine. I remember going to that Oakland Roadster show in 67. Isn't that streamlined dragster in the background Tony Nancy's racer?
There were a bunch of very well built hot rods and customs during this time period, especially in the Bay Area.

Jnaki

We were going to SF across the bay for some vacation stuff, including some concerts and decided to stop in at the Oakland Roadster Show. Although we had been out of the hot rod scene for several years, that show always drew us in for the long drive up to the Bay Area. In 1967, the Bay Area was the hot bed of rock music, Haight Ashbury, and psychedelia. A whole different world was going on across the bay, But, you can't take the hot rod out of an old hot rodder...

 

Very cool pics! Thanks.

 

^^^^ A bunch of killer pics!

 

Two of my residual valve fittings arrived today. I purchased some thread sealer and installed the 10 psi valve. Then, I applied thread sealer to all the flare fittings, except for the wheel cylinders, which I'll be replacing later. The other 2 fittings will arrive tomorrow or Friday. Pics forth coming.

 

A welcome surprise, the other 2 fittings arrived and are in place. Next up.... I'll replace the wheel cylinders and access the other hardware in the drums.

 

Can you "Clock" those so the tiny screws point downward so you can make adjustments from the bottom when the body is on?

 

To my knowledge, they are NOT adjustable. No mention of that in the instructions. I looked and the screws seem to be to keep a spring or whatever, inside.

 

They will be set at the specific pressure. JW

 

Last night, I took a look at the drum brake hardware in my previous pics. I decided to get a hardware kit, which will be the springs and clips. I'll wire brush and paint the brackets as needed (there's only a couple). The shoes LOOK okay, but I'm going to replace them anyway. This will hopefully happen next week, as I want to get new wheel cylinders, too. I'll have to see what's left of my pay check. Being on a budget SUCKS!

 

If the cylinders are still ok and don't leak you can still clean and paint the parts you need to and replace the cylinders and shoes at any time. Frees up the $'s for stuff you NEED now. JW

 

Well, the cylinders are a lost cause. I'll be taking everything else apart and paint the brackets. Maybe tonight or tomorrow. I'm hoping to get the cylinders next week. So, I'll install everything at one time.

 

Good call. JW

 

Budgets do suck for sure.
I reused the shoes and kits I got with my pick-a-part drums and backing plates but lucked out in that they were obviously new or darn close to it.
Drums had been freshly cut too.
I did replace the cylinders to go to a larger size.
None of the stuff is particularly expensive...just that it all adds up!
Never seems to be a problem to make a $100.00 bucks disappear when you're building a car!

 

Okay.... I talked my brake situation over with a couple gearheads at work and the basic suggestion, since I'm on a budget, was to clean everything up and install the new springs since I already had them. They came over and thought the shoes were good, as well as the wheel cylinders. Later, when I bleed the system, if they leak, THEN I'll replace them.

So, I went at it and knocked it out. I used a wire brush to get the dust out and wiped it down. I skipped painting the brackets because they really didn't need it.



The basic kit from O'Reilly's is color coded, so I matched everything up. I also had pics of how everything goes together. I referenced the pics a lot.



I took my time, played some tunes and was done.