THE oldsmobile rocket 303 324 371 394 post to end all other posts, (lasalle related )

Turns out that auction site had the best deal. $30.79 to my door for that exact part.

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Ok I've read thru this whole thread AGAIN and have some questions. Who has run Chevy lifters and pushrods in a 303. Also I want to check valve, piston clearance. What is the best way with hyd lifters. I was thinking of making a lifter from aluminum but am not sure how much the hyd collapses. Also can anyone help me with a starter for my 49-303. I'm looking to use a mini starter. I know Ross sells them but I doubt he has them made special just for him. I also need to know the placement of the water restrictors in the block and of heads. Machine shop knocked mine out and I cant remember where they were, and is this a Ross only available part. Thanks


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Then I guess the over 300 starters I've personally assembled must have been a mirage..........


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Hey Tony, As a machinist I've found that people often don't have a full realization for the cost associated with custom machine work. I work in a prototype machine shop at Ingersoll Rand and so I see it on a daily basis. What looks like a simple part can cost many hours of work and cost $$$. On top of the actual machining cost there's also the time spent making drawings, scrapping ideas that don't quite work. I'm betting that while maybe you don't make every part from scratch, you at the minimum are making the drive end housing, flywheel/bendix drive gear (probably in a couple tooth counts) and maybe making or modifying the the rotor shaft?

 

Your absolutely correct......


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Tony. I did not mean to offend you in any way. I completely respect your knowledge of these engines and what you've done for the industry. I admit I could have worded my statement differently. What I was hoping to find out is if there is a off the shelf starter with the correct tooth profile that a mounting adaptor could be made for. I don't want to run into a situation were I'm stranded hundreds of miles from home with only one supplier for a starter. I have no problem paying up " you did all the leg work" if I know another unit can be bolted to your mount. I am starting from scratch here I have no starter and have not seen a starter to spec from. I am only going off the only place I can for information ,this site.


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Jebbesen. I do know what it takes to do the design work. I've been in the machine tool industry for over 40 yrs. starting as a machinist, then machine tool builder for Kearney Trecker. I now work for undoubtedly the largest defense contractor in the world as a machine repair technician ,I'm the guy that builds those 15 k rpm spindles when the machinists crash them. I am also known in my area for doing one off parts whether it be for an antique steam engine or custom hotrod parts.


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I wasn't trying to write you off. Sorry if I came off wrong. It's not always easy to get tone from forum posts. From your initial post I could see why Tony was a little miffed and was basically trying to smooth things out and give him a chance to explain what he does to "make" a starter.

 

How big of a cam can be stuffed in an otherwise stock 371 (57)? I'm not opposed to changing out jets in the carburetor, but I would like to keep the appearance of a stock engine. I understand the intake will be the choke point but I don't want to pony up for the same j2 setup everyone else has and everything else is a little sportier than I want to be. I'm not looking to tear up the pavement, but while the cam is out, why not upgrade a bit.

 

Just completed my '34 with a stock 303" & '48 Ford gear box & rear end. Wonder how long my keyways will last.

 

I have a question that I can't seem to find the answer to. I have a 56 Rocket 88 motor in my Tudor. It is in dire need of a new oil pan, but I can't find one anywhere. I am guessing that pre 56 oil pans will work, but I'm not positive. Can anybody answer this, or point me in the right direction of where to purchase a new pan?

Thank you,
Dustin

 

eBay. Or get in touch with @GOATROPER02 I'm sure he'll be able to hook you up.

 

Ya I've tried all over the internet with no luck. Just sent Tony a message. Thanks!

 

Oldsmobile Rockets, finally getting the credit they deserve on national TV
Both these cars are incredible, although one has the "newer" 425
All mine have been '64's (close to a '62) except for ONE '65 Starfire ragtop. Agree'd that were 2 different driving experiences.

 

thanks, brings back good memories
I had a couple '62s, first a 98 Holiday Sedan
and later a 98 Holiday Coupe
loved the way they felt on the road, nothing like it.

 

Great info, I just bought these 52(?) remains for the 303 to use in an project. It turns over and looks clean under the valve covers...hoping it won't need much.

 

Got the engine out, looks clean on the top end, fingers crossed the bottom looks the same.

 

And a dumb newbie question: I found a guy with a standard trans flywheel, but he said it's a 6V flywheel... I know my starter would work with it, but if I wanted to run 12V can I simply use that flywheel and run mybstarter 12V? That's what I do with my flathead starters. Or would I be better to try and find a 176 tooth flywheel and get a 54-up starter?

 

Just picked up a cast iron 3 /2 intake that I assume it is a J2. What C.I. motors will this fit ? Also picked up a 40 Ford truck with a Olds engine . How can I tell the year or size with out pulling heads. Thanks for any info.

 

Chris,
6 volt starter will work fine with 12 volts for a long time.

Gabby,
J2 manifolds bolt to '57-'58 engines
but can be milled to work on earlier engines
or mounted to later engines with adapter plates.

ID heads by large cast number over center exhaust ports
ID blocks by stamped number at deck surface

 

Gabby, the block ID can be found on a tab near the center of block hiding under the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. The head does not need to come off.
look above at post 708 of Chris's engine and you will see the number Paul is referencing. In
chris's case he has number 2 heads. 10's are 1956 and flow better and was a common swap back in the day.
All the block and head numbers are located in this thread on earlier pages.

 

this came from page 14 of this thread:
Here's the casting numbers that the late Olds guru Don_Wow gave us:


1949--8A1001 TO 8A193864 H PREFIX=HYDRA MATIC
1950--8A194001 TO 8A568689 H PREFIX= HYDRA MATIC
1951--8C1001 TO 8C287312 B PREFIX= SYNCHROMESH
1952--8R1001 TO 8R214478
1953--R215001 TO R549482
1954--V1001 TO V355083
1955--V400001 TO V983275
1956--A001001 TO A385513


Head numbers that I know of:

#2 1952
#3 1953
#7 1954
#8 1955
#10 1956

I'm not sure about your 'J' prefix, but if it's actually a 'V', than it'd be a '55 block.

 

I got the intake and valley cover off mine, looks very clean inside. I'm hoping to just "freshen up" this engine and use it in my roadster. I mocked my intake up, still looking for some other performance and dress up goodies. The car this engine came out of showed 88,000 on the odometer, not sure if this is the original engine or not though, but it looked pretty legit

 

Gents,

Rebuilding my 1958 Olds 371. Looking for NOS or American made Main and Rod Bearings (.010/.010). Most places I found like Fusick, Egge Kanter all sell foreign made bearings. I read on a previous thread that Buick 455 rod bearings are identical to 371 ones. Is this true? If so all Buick 455 years? Do you have or recommend a place to obtain Olds 371 Main Bearings?

Regards,

Erol

 

If you are not up against a time line keep checking eBay. Good old American bearings will show up for a great price.

 

check with Tony at Ross Racing. U can get the straight scoop from him. @GOATROPER02

 

Started cleaning the block for reassembly. 55 324

 

Gents,

I see on Ebay people selling NOS Federal Mogul 4022M Main Bearing sets. One guy stating it will fit 58 Olds 371 and others stating fitting 59 and newer 371 engines. Did these engines use the same main bearings? Can someone please confirm the correct Federal Mogul (or other manufactuerer) part number? Thanks

 

My buddy @bgbdlinc just went through issues with bearings in his 58 371... Apparently "there were two sizes of main journals 'early' and 'late' and their appropriate bearings in 1958. The early journals were smaller and the bearings were leftovers from the 1957 production run, then they were enlarged for the balance of the '58 production run. Most vendors do not know this, so we found out the hard (costly) way."

Can't help you with part numbers, but hope this helps.