Following along for some time. In the end if possible, it would be great to know all the shops used for the work and a one-post list of the manufacturers part numbers you used and what mods were done for their use. I realize that would need to wait until you are done, but would be invaluable info to others trying to follow a similar path as you have. Might make the difference for many guys to make an attempt. Really great to watch this come together and waiting anxiously to see how it all works.
All will be revealed in time! I made it harder on myself with the 331 block. It took some doing to get the 390 crank in there. Much easier to start with a 390.
I don't have the numbers in front of me but it you can subtract the BBC journal diameter from the Caddy journal diameter and divide by two. It wasn't much but I didn't want to weld on the journal to offset more. The rod clearance looks adequate to do that if you wanted.
Much appreciated that you would do that. I realize asking you to put together a summary is asking a lot after you've already given us a great thread. It will be nice to have the total picture to follow for a future build of my own.
Good news/bad news... Good news: Upgraded valve springs are on their way! The heads should be buttoned up shortly. Bad news: The rod bolts (remember, aftermarket 7.1" BBC rods) are interfering with some of the Steve Long Racing Cam lobes. Bottom end coming apart to grind a little on the bolt heads. We had it mocked up with an old timing set and the stock cam and there was plenty of clearance! Good thing the engine builder is meticulous and checking everything three times! In other good news, the bottom portion of the log manifold I'm fabricating for the Weber setup got welded. It is mostly done from the intake flange to the log. Now I have to figure out how to mount the Webers which will be on the outside of the valve covers (over the exhaust). Never a dull moment with this complicated build! Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Align bored, stock bolts. Engine builder thinks that is more than enough. Dyno should verify! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Another tidbit of info. I talked to Steve Long about a hydraulic roller cam for this build. He said you need a billet cam for that to get hard enough lobes. The cast iron blanks the grinders use won't work with a roller cam. With a max of 6500 RPM it probably won't matter much anyhow, I'll just have to run Rotella diesel oil or Valvoline racing oil for the high zinc content. You shouldn't run modern oils with a flat tappet cam/lifters because the zinc is omitted for pollution prevention. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Would he spool up and build blanks for a Hyd roller cam? Just wondering how many cams he would have to have commitments on?
You'd have to ask him but I got the impression a billet cam would be north of $1,000 plus the cost of the roller lifters, and then you have to guess which lifters to use and perhaps modify them and maybe the block. I felt I was already in enough uncharted territory on this build! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Check with Joe Panek at Rotofaze. He may have billet blanks or a source for them. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I see the light at the end of the tunnel! The tin has been chromed, should be another couple of weeks until I can pick this bad boy up. Need to finish up the intake which is about 1/2 done. Looking for a place that can dyno this. Either that or I'll have to wait a little longer and use a chassis dyno. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Awesome. Very interested in seeing this engine finished. I also have dreams of a 390 in 331 clothing. Thanks for the informative thread.
Stock chain. No double roller available. I believe the setup came from Egge. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Interesting I'm subscribing , I've have a 400" Crankshaft Co. stroker kit in my 331 Caddy but I built it back in the 60's . Still running strong . I think your 49 Ford rear will grenade with the torque of Caddy ! I glad to see that your using a Caddy always liked them !
It's done! Now I have to pay for it, pick it up and then figure out what to do with it. Once I have the invoice in front of me I'll post a parts list. Still fabricating my log style intake manifold. Have to go through my La Salle too. Aluminum valve covers are temporary. I'm saving the chromed ones until everything goes together for good.
Yes, the original covers have been chromed by Buena Park (California) Bumper and Chrome. They did a great job on my parts! Show quality. Buena Park Bumper & Chrome Telephone: 714-670-7803 Address: 7425 Orangethorpe Ave., Unit C, Buena Park, CA 90621
Picked up the engine yesterday from: L&R Engines (https://www.facebook.com/LREngines/) 13731 Bora Dr, Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 (562) 802-0443 Derek was great to work with and put up with all my oddball requests! Parts list: Part #; Description CHP-1D; Bore, Hone & Deck Block 2-454-7100; Scat 7.1" Connecting Rods 90458; Ross Pistons Labor; Grind 390 Crankshaft- Custom 3767; Rear Seal 710P; Main Bearings Labor; Bush Rods to SBC .927 Pin Size Labor; Narrow Rod Width Labor; Drill Crank for Pilot Bushing Labor; Balance Crankshaft CLE-CB-743H; Narrow Rod Bearings Misc; Heavy Metal Slugs for Crank DYN-S-256; Timing Sprocket DYN-S-255; Timing Sprocket DYN-C-499; Timing Chain SPW-E-251K; Piston Rings Labor; Valve Job Labor; Surface Heads Labor; Head Porting Labor; Flow Heads Labor; Assemble Shortblock ELG-I-1294; Stainless Intake Valves ELG-E-1277; Stainless Exhaust Valves 578G; Head Gaskets VL5; Lifters ELG-PR-21; Push Rods Labor; Install Heads Misc; Rebuild Oil Pump (Egge Machine) 22018; Oil Pan Gasket 18004E; Valley Pan Gasket GS8083Z; Valve Cover Gasket Steve Long Racing Cam (I'll add the grind number later) Valve Springs (I'll add the specs later) Egge and Elgin provided a lot of the old Caddy specific parts. A lot of this is extra work I created by putting the 390 crank in the 331 block, drilling the 390 crank for a manual trans pilot bearing, putting in longer (BBC) rods with forged (SBC) pistons, porting and flowing the heads, etc. This took a long time and I'm satisfied with the result, but I'm not yet sure when it will run. I have a few other things to finish first. Once the car can move under its own power I do have a chassis dyno run in my plan. I want to see what it will do with all these mods as much as everyone else!