Hot Rods SBC overheating...yes I've tried almost everything!

Here is a reverse fan on my truck.... See the difference?

Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Check timming with light, put coolent recovery tank on it, air in system is bad. Put 16 lb cap on it. Each lb in cap rating changes boiling point 3 degrees, you dropped down 9 lbs= 27 degrees lower boiling point

 

Either take off the mechanical fan and use the electric one or put the correct mechanical fan on it with a shroud.

I really think some people need to drive them and not try to fix them.

On second thought.... I think I will build a nuclear power plant! Should be easy enough. Is there a message board for that?

Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I vote for the intake gaskets. Were there heating issues before you changed them.? The trick to diagnosis is check simplest things first.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Actually, the trick is to read all the posts, and realize that the issue has, with 99.5% certainty, been identified and resolution is underway.

 

Looks like the guys have got this one handled, but just curious.
Where are you located? What is the outside temperature when it is getting hot?
I'm going to assume that the worst damage to the manifold is what I'm seeing there. But my question is why do you have that manifold on a stock 305?

 

Wow- just zoomed in pic. A Vic Jr on a stock 305?

 

guess I got lucky
.60 over 350 with mechanical fan
stays at 195 all day long pulling a 6500 pound bus

 

What did you do since it has no heater core to hook to? Plug or bypass? I Just want to make sure you exhaust all of your free scenarios before you start throwing money at it. Most new motors have to have circulation through the loop. Make sure you don't plug it, but bypass with hose. Being that all cars have heaters now they are designed as part of the cooling system and not an add on option.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Easy fix. Put a dodge motor back in. Get rid of the belly button engine.

Sent from my SM-T805Y using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I plugged the bypass system. The intake is on there because I got a good deal on it and it was machined out already to work on the newer style heads with the angled center bolts. The only damage is what you see in the picture. Is there a reason I shouldn't be running this intake?


I am going to start with fixing the fan issue and see if my temp problem is resolved. I will change the cap to a 16 or 18# and and some type of overflow to ensure no air is getting in. I believe my problem is 99% airflow due to my mistake of fan use.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I see now that the pitch of the fan blades are reversed. I was under the impression that you could just turn the fan around. After doing some digging I understand that by doing that you don't change the air direction. Learn something new every day!


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Fan is a big part of the issue , sounds like you have covered basics timing , gaskets , thermostat . This may sound crazy , but I'm sure thermostat is correctly installed ? Is engine higher than radiator fill point ? If so great place to get an air lock . If this is the case , you may need to install an air bleed to free air lock . 305 is mild engine small cubic should be an easy fix , but as you have noticed , Murphy moves in and hides out when we lease expect him to .

 

The reason they were giving you a hard time about the intake is that it is not the best fit for a small cube, low RPM stock motor. For just a cruiser you might be better off with a dual plane stock type intake.
Notice also the shroud in the picture of the reverse rotation fan. It really helps in low RPM , low speed usage.
I dont like the electric fans in the old cars, but its just a preference thing. Lots of people use the electric, and they work.
Good Luck.

 

This doesn't have anything to do with your overheating problem, but you will be much happier with an Edelbrock Performer intake over the Victor Jr. You probably need to change that out.

Edelbrock Performer intake manifolds are low-rise, dual-plane designs with patented runner tuning and a 180 degree firing order that you won't find with the competition. This combination boosts torque over a wide rpm range, from idle to 5,500 rpm. These manifolds also deliver improved throttle response over stock intakes and are available in both EGR and non-EGR style.

Here's some info on the Victor Jr. manifold.

Low-profile, single-plane Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake manifolds are very versatile and can be used for drag racing and Oval Track competition, as well as for street applications. Power bands range from 3,500 to 7,000 rpm, on up to 4,500 to 8,000 rpm.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2975/overview/

 

So something like this instead?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2104/10002/-1?parentProductId=745125


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I wouldn't worry about the intake til you resolve the heat issue. It'll run with what you have, it just won't "peak" unless you're just short of valve float. If it's not something you plan to run WFO very often just wait for a good used dual plane. You got some good solid direction here. I recommend you follow it. Until you do it's labor for nothing.

 

Thank you. I plan on pulling the fan today and am going to "burp" the system as well as add an overflow. I will replace with the proper fan and remove the electric fan. I am also going to add a higher pressure cap to replace the 7-pound that's on it. I have received very useful info and am going to put it to good use!


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

A fan is like a nut. You have to have the correct one for the direction it turns, You can't put a right hand nut on a left hand thread. I went through this with a guy who got a 6 blade fan from a cabover truck that turned the wrong way. He was certain that turning it around would change the air flow direction. I twisted some plastic and paper together to make some black smoke and held it in front of his radiator to show him it's blowing the air forward instead of pulling it through.

The cloth test from post 35 should have shown this unless the electric fan overwhelms the mechanical at idle.

 

No, but you could build a steam car...

 

If you do,(put the info to good use,) you'll be one of the few who do. I think you have it whipped with those three changes.

 

Hmmmm.... That's a thought.

Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Sorry, I found my reverse flow water pump, the fan has already been scavenged off of it.
Sorry I couldn't help you solve the over heating problem.

Phil

 

No need to be sorry! I appreciate all the help!


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Small (somewhat of an) update. I took the mechanical fan off just now and turned on the electric fan. It know can hold a piece of newspaper on the outside of the radiator, so that's a plus!

I will be replacing the radiator cap next and burping the system. I will let you guys know how that turns out.


On a side note, my power steering pump went out as of this morning and is locked up. Maybe this was playing somewhat of a role in the water pump output? (Grasping here, but you never know). Thanks again guys!


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

From the photo your mechanical fan is almost useless,it is mounted too low on the radiator,I use a zips riser that moves the fan to the middle of the radiator, and a heavy duty 17" steel fan.HRP

 

Did u test the thermo in a pot of boiling water to make sure it was operating right? I bought 5 thermos befor I got one that actually worked right solved my problem just saying, hotrod harry


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app HotRod Harry

 

i'm going to go out on a limb here and say test the gauge first:
(i'm surprised Bosch would even put their name on such junk---no offense to 55panelwagon or your equipment, but i'm not real confident with that cheap-ass gauge.......)

http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/water-temp-gauge.shtml

a) 205-210 degrees while driving is not bad in and of itself, but if the thermostat is 195, it shouldn't be running that hot unless you're constantly climbing hills and the like.
b) 235-240 while idling IS a problem, but when you say "puking" into the overflow can---- isn't this kind "puking" normal? This is what the overflow bottle is for?

Thus, i recommend testing the gauge first.

2) i understand theory behind the fan turbulence----one fan pushing forward while the air rushing into the radiator while the car is moving. Or the electric fan pulling while the mechanical fan is pushing. However, i'm not convinced the fan(s) is/are the problem-----yet. Although, yes the fan situation should be corrected immediately regardless.

 

Could the flex fan be the wrong one meaning it's turning in the wrong direction for the blade pitch? And put the higher psi radiator cap back in to raise the boil point. And hopefully the intake gaskets are installed correctly. I think the blocked off passages should be in the rear, IIRC.

And one more comment. If the fan you have was on a v- belt driven water pump, then it would be turning in the wrong direction on a serpentine belt driven one.

 

Folks, I know it takes time to read all the posts, but you should.