Hot Rods 55 chevy 265 fly wheel ?

I have a 55 265 chevy eng. the po kept the fly wheel .Is it a 153 0r a different one ?.This has the funky mounted starter.

 

Likely a 168 tooth flywheel. does it have three bolts that mount the starter to the bell housing?

 

Thanks. It does. never had any thing to do with one of these. I have the adapter that matches it also. fits a early ford trans.

 

14 inch, 168 tooth flywheel. Pick your style of clutch, Borg Warner or diaphragm. You'll need to run the Ford disc that matches the transmission. Those starters can get expensive; find a used one and rebuild it yourself. The starter adapter ring you have, is just the starter ring from a V-8, cast iron, Powerglide, as is the starter motor (V-8 manual and Powerglide take the same starter), that, and your adapter bolts to in order to connect up with the Ford transmission.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

starters are not that bad for them...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/OST0/R713238A/01920.oap?

 

Got the clutch disc, Just need a f/w to finish it off. I want an Intake also, but with the scaricity of them ,I may have to wait. Just trying for an eng put together in the mid 50s.

 

That is cheap; error? Look at what a used, grease encrusted one goes for on that auction site we all know and love. Maybe they're listing them as "Corvette" or something? I have three on hand, I just rebuild my own.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

the starter that bolts to the bell housing is the exact same starter that fits any 55 thru 62 V8 stick shift car or truck & any 1963 up stick shift chevy PK truck that used a bell housing mounted 3 bolt starter. The 230 6 and V8's used the exact same bellhousing. and that starter nose will fit on almost all of the block mounted starters. I didn't realize they are rare. Ive got plenty of them. also the truck flywheel & clutch assembly will fit a tri five. The V 8 trucks commonly used a 11 inch clutch disk.

 

Forget EBay you can buy new one at any parts store cheaper. I like to install the cast iron nose on the big block starters that have larger armitures and field coils. In looking for a nose for a 76 C65 truck starter. Mine has a 366 and the nose bushing was worn out and the hole worn oblong. I filled the entire hole with brazing rod and my torches. Then I redrilled the bushing hole. Its working but I want to find a nose and build a spare starter to keep under the seat. its a different pattern than the small truck starters.

 

It's not so much that they are "rare", it's just that hardly anyone uses them anymore, and therefore stores don't stock them. Because they're "old", guys usually ask more for them. Starting with the 57 models, they started calling them high-torque, having larger coils; the nose cone was changed also for the newer style starter solenoids pressed into use (55-56 used a solenoid whose linkage was open and visible, and could be adjusted for "throw"). They were used 55-62 in passenger cars with manual transmissions and the cast iron Powerglides (and only with the 283 in 62; if you had a 327 engine, they used a block mounted starter as did the "new" style six cylinders and the 153 four cylinder). In trucks, they used that bellhousing mounted starter into the early 70's with manual transmissions; automatics got the block mounted starters, with the death of the cast iron Powerglide in 62, that used the bellhousing mount starters. Why Chevrolet engineers did't "standardize" things, who knows? It would have been simpler and cheaper to have one starter, one flexplate/flywheel, and one manual transmission mounting surface (early trucks were different than cars, why?)?
I am Butch/56sedaqndelivery.

 

The starter in the link I provided is in stock at a chain parts store, in my small town.

GM did an amazing job of standardizing that stuff....compared to Ford and Mopar, at least. Foreign cars use even more varieties.

 

I also think Gm did a pretty good job standardizing stuff. and the chevy was the most interchangeable of the GM. A lot of V8 and six cyl engine mounting parts interchange. the big block and small block mounting parts swap out. the other 3 of the big four weren't near as good.

 

The 1948 through 1rst series 55 trucks went to the bigger transmission/bellhousing mounting pattern. The passenger cars did't do that until 55. But, the enclosed driveline "balls" are the same, as are the trans lengths, and for the most part, wheelbases. If they used the same pattern of mounting, it would have saved $$$ in design and tooling. Come 58 they shorten the trans for passenger cars, and went to a 2 piece driveline until 64; standardize and save $$$, and make $$$! Why the 2 piece driveline? It's not like the cars were really any longer, wheelbase had been 115" since 49 through 58, 59 added a couple (2-1/2") more. Why shorten the trans, and require 2 driveshaft pieces? Leave the trans length, and shorten the driveline, leaving it one piece. What way is cheaper, and and standardizes? I'm not an automotive engineer by any means, but any big change costs $$$, and they really did't have to go that route. Why was the 409 AND the new "RAT" motors offered in 65? Pick a horse! I actually like the bellhousing mount starter motors, but aluminum was starting to be substituted for cast iron bellhousings, and aluminum would not support a bellhousing mounted starter. Trucks used the cast iron bell into the 70's, and the same starter; why? I'm not sure what 6 and 8 cylinder parts swap; maybe the thermostat housing and gasket, flywheels/flexplates, starters, and fan; big and small blocks use the same distributor, unless it's the W-motors, then all bets are off; clutch sizes vary with all the engines. A SBC and a BBC are hugely different; the 64 on small Pont/Olds/Buick/Caddy engines are only different in CID, not at all externally, but a 350 Pont is a small block, while a 455 Pont is a big block; same with Buick, Olds, Caddy. And, all those have the same block/transmission mounting pattern, while Chev is different. And then GM started in with the "corporate" engines, transmission, and rearends, where your Pont may have a Chevy engine, or an Olds engine, or a Buick engine (???). Same frames, same bodies, with basically, different trim, and powertrains. Standardization? Now they've dropped Olds, and Pont. WHY a Chevrolet truck and a GMC truck? Same, but different, in so many ways.That's one I really have a hard time understanding. GMC should go, or Chevrolet trucks should go. Again, pick a horse, we really only need one truck from GM. I don't know the answer, I just don't know.
But, I am Butch/56sedandelivery, I'm sure of that!

 

Ok I took pictures the first is a 71 Pk bellhousing. the second is a V8 powerglide adapter used on cast iron glides. the third is a 58 V8 chev car bellhousing. the fourth is a three bolt 6 cyl 64 truck starter the 5th is the picture showing the attaching of the seleonid to the field cols on the 6 vyl (small starter). The 7th is the starter from a 7i 402 big block bolts to the block and has a cast iron nose. The 8th is showing the attachment if the field coils (notice the gap on the large starter) the 9th is a pass car aluminum cast nose. the 10th is the 402 cast nose the 11 th is a 55 V8 starter the 12th and 13th are the same 55 starter. all the cast and aluminum noses will swap except for the lever type 55 starters with 4 bolts holding the solenoid to the starter. You can use the larger field coils from the bigger starters with any nose except the lever type. Its really quite simple if you Know How.

 

The shorter trans and two piece driveshaft was because of the( Wasp waist) Xtype frame. they needed a carrier bearing and two piece driveshaft. If they had kept that long transmission the front driveshaft would have been too short. The ladder frame trucks retained the long tailshaft.you can swap the long and short tailshafts. I stated the engine mounting parts swapped between the six and 8 cyls. You can swap a V8 where a 6 was in a 63 or newer and its a bolt in using the same engine mounts. and 230 pistons fit a 283 and 250 pistons same as a 307. There isn't a big or small block Pontiac. Externally they are all the same size from a 55 -287 to a 455. and there is some engine parts interchangability but it requires expertize. The GMC,s for many years had different engines than chevys. and the GMC from 63 up has real leaf springs the chevy mostly had coil springs. That's why I like the hamb you can actually learn stuff. Especially if you aint too smart to learn sumthin from someone you think is dumber than you are LOL. I seem to remember you and I schooling folks that the chevy 318 Muncie trans wasn't a Saginaw?

 

Why the did the rat replace the W engine. Because the W engine wasn't winning any NASCAR Races. The W engine was a boat anchor truck engine.

 

Very nice array of photos, but WHERE is the V-8, 55-62, Chevrolet Truck, Dual Range, Hydramatic transmission, starter motor? And why did Chevrolet put Buick nailhead engines in some of their big trucks in the latter 50's?
Basically, Automotive Engineers create their own jobs, and that's the reason things are all over the place.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

They put the 322 in school buses.

I don't know why they did all that stuff, but a lot of it makes sense if you look at it a different way (from the point of view of an engineer). Anyways, it's a great way to keep our aging minds active, trying to remember all the details that we learned 30-40-50 years ago!

work on a Ford some time, you'll really appreciate how interchangeable Chevys are

 

Ive seen those 322 nail heads in 1956 chevy truck tractors. And the reason was they needed more torque than the 283 could provide. The GMC,s used Pontiac and Olds engines in their trucks. Then chevy engineers developed the 348 W engine as a truck powerplant. And it was also modified put in the 58 cars. But in factory form It wasn't winning any Nascar races. the FE fords where beating the W engines even the 409 wasn't cutting it. The Pontiacs where holding their own but often blew up. In 63 at Daytona the mystery engine A 427 big block. Never finished the race. Tiny Lund won in a 63 ford. A lot of engineering was tested on the race tracks.

 

Ive never owned one of those critters. I did own two 55 Pontiacs with the hydro transmissions. Ive got a starter for one of them. possibly they are the same as the chevy version?

 

The Chevrolet V-8 Hydro starter motor bolts "upside down"; at least it looks that way since the solenoid is on the bottom. That's the reason all the Chevrolet Sedan Deliveries in the old Junior Stock class had fenderwell headers; there was no room to run under chassis headers because the solenoid was in the way. Fenderwell headers caught on with the other Tri-Five cars for the look and convenience of the fenderwell headers, leaving more room under the car for engine/transmission work. Today, those starter motors bring big money; $250.00 plus for one that needs rebuilding! The B and M conversion bellhousings for the Chevrolet V-8/Hydro had a recessed area that took the "regular" V-8, manual trans/Powerglide trans starter motors, and they therefore mounted with the solenoid on top. When I first joined this site in 2005/2006, I placed an ad in the classifieds, giving ALL my Hydro stuff away. 2 complete B & M Hydro Sticks, spare4 flywheels, spare torus assemblies, slip yokes, and even 2 shifters-I still say that's the DUMBEST thing I've ever done! The somewhat local guy who got everything, eventually SOLD my stuff, and one trans was bought by Tom Willford (RIP). I later gave Tom another hydro and shifter I came into. Anyways, those starter motors are as hard to find as 83 Corvettes. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

I looked online at some pictures. Its possible that I have a chevy hydro starter or two. Ive got a couple hundred starters. From looking at pictures. The chevy hydro starter,s appear to have the same solenoid as the 55 starter I pictured and a different two bolt nose. If I had the casting number of the nose I would know for certain. There was a old time salvage yard operater hoarder who died in a car wreck. And I attended his estate auction and bought truckloads of parts . nothing labeled just piled up in big piles. Did you know that a 1/2 ton 62 GMC cannot haul a bed full of starters. Too much weight. Also I have one of those blue point armature testers.

 

1107643 or 1107674 on the number plate

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0202.htm

 

Chev V-8 starter motor is also a 3 bolt starter, but the engagement side is opposite other Chev V-8 starter motors. Same solenoid. Case and coils are also the same, just the nose cone is different. Your 2 bolt are probably for sixes.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Is the stater picture in this thread a hydra-matic starter?

 

^^^ IF you're referring to the old, cast iron, Dual Range, Hydra-Matic transmission, then NO; they are very similar however. They mount "upside down", that is, with the solenoid hanging beneath the starter motor. The "flat" part of the nose cone that aligns itself with the block is also on the "bottom". Rare starter if you're looking for one, and $$$ when you find one, normally. The last used one I saw listed on E-Bay, went for $250.00, and that was a few years ago! Maybe if you need one of those, Old wolf may have one; it looks like he has a LOT of stuff.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

What a tutorial.As a youngster I always thought the hydro behind a chevy was the way to go. I ran a 50 olds with a modified dual range and it was great,

 

Don't forget, 57 and up Turboglide engines used a block mounted starter as they were cast without the need for a removable adapter ring as the Trans was V8 only

 

If this motor is going to see high RPM you need to remember NHRA required a scatter shield on solid lifter SBC before other applications. Early 168 tooth flywheels seamed to have the most problems.

 

This thread should go into a file! Well...It is, here at Atwater Flats! Starter info galore!
Call it a 'thread file!'

By the way, Jim: I just bought this early starter at my local O'Reilly store, yes, $55.00 + core. (they didn't care what the core was, just a starter) They had it in stock...

48 Ford nut: It would behoove you to use 3/8" studs and nuts in your adaptor to attach the Ford box.
The studs go in and stay tight against their larger shanks...Lots of those threaded holes got 'enlarged' in the soft aluminum over the years, and I don't like helicoils. Even used a little #2 Permatex on the adaptor end of the studs...