Hot Rods 1932 Ford 5w Refresh Thread - Closed Driveline T5 now!

Russ is a local legend and does have a big drum to tumble aluminum heads and intakes for a cool alternative to natural or polished finished. And like Denny, I too have his ceramic coated exhaust system. Great contact.

Your wheels turned out great.

 

Love the car. You guys did a great job. Not to get too off topic on your thread, but I'm diggin that setup to spin the wheels for finishing. Looks like an old Souix grinder clamped to the table. OSHA approved no doubt, lol.

 

It's an often debated topic, but chatter rods really should be used for closed driveline applications. I know many people get away without using them, but they take the longitudinal loading off of the engine/trans mounts created by the torque tube pushing on the trans. If you think about it, the chatter rods basically keep the engine/trans from exiting through the front of the frame when you accelerate....

Now for open drivelines, they're not needed.

 

Since Detroit, I've been doing some tweaks and making some refinements to the car. I also got the heater hoses ran, and started working on more interior stuff. I'll post some shots of the interior later, but don't hold any high expectations for it..... I'm not interior guy by any means, but it's somewhat presentable.

I ventured away from the neighborhood the other day to get some longer duration drive time in the car. Overall, it seems to be doing pretty well. I stopped and grabbed a few shots of the car from a distance finally too.....



Ashley grabbed a short video as we were out driving too. I'm still getting used to the light flyhweel, and 2.94 gear in the quick change with the 7.00-16 tires. It's just going to take a little more engine speed at launch than I'm normally used to.

 

Stunning.... love the paint, wheels, everything!

 

My new favorite car, excellent!!!!!!!!!!

 

Love it. What an outstanding 5 window. I want it. Really, I do

 

Another great looking Hot Rod from Cory and Ashley! Back to the top of the list for me.

 

When can I pick it up ?
Outstanding job not sure what else to say.

 

Hey if you are getting rid of your pickup I would take it off your hands

 

The RPU would just have an awesome playmate to share garage space with

 

Cory do you use welting on the rear fenders between the fender & the body? How about between the front fenders & the frame?

 

I did not, only because I didn't want black outlines around the fenders. The fenders fit the body and frame well enough that I decided I would go without it.

It was originally installed around the back fenders (starting at the running board corner, and ending at the bottom of the frame horn cover), as well on the front fenders along the frame rail.

 

Thanks for the ride!

 

Veryvery nice car!
Only one question
How long the transmission will hold that power?

 

WHAT A CAR!! Thanks for the amazing tutorial on how to build a 5W. Every time I re-read it I find some inspirational detail.

 

Awesome hot rod!

 

It did well behind the small block, but I never intentionally abused it (the Halibrand is the next fuse inline after the '39 trans).

This post happens to be good timing as I'm just finishing up a closed driveline T5 conversion on this car. I should have it back on the road in about a week.

 

Are you going to have to modify the factory K member to fit the T-5 in there?

 

This keeps getting better.
I love your 5 window so much.
I'm also about to start building my paint booth based on what you built, even though the "experts" don't think it's a good idea.
I even have the same 12" blower fan and hose.
I have just enough room for that size booth and I think it will be perfect.

My question for you at this point is, did you spray 2 part catylized paint and what did you use for respiratory protection?

Larry

 

Nice Corey!


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

thats a nice 5w you got there, I like the way the wheels are done - matches the paint on the car perfectly.

 

Yes - I removed the top bridge and opened the main hole up some for the T5 to pass through. I did not disturb the belly of the k-member, so it appears stock from the underside and my wishbone still attaches in the stock location.

 

I did spray 2k paint, and I used 3M paint respirators.

 

I'll try to round up my build shots soon showing the T5 conversion. I've had the car back on the road for about a week, and have accumulated around 170 miles just driving around town. I'm very pleased with the setup, and feel it was worth the effort.

 

Thanks I'm planning to do the same thing.

 

It also looks like you just had lighting through the top plastic of the booth, did you find that was enough?
How many lights are on the ceiling above your booth?
I've noticed that a lot of guys have lights on the walls.
(Which can create a bunch of problems as well)
Larry

 

My garage is very well illuminated with fluorescent lights, and it lit up the booth well through the plastic.

 

Alight, I rounded up some photos from the T5 conversion, so I figured I'd get the post together.....

Last year, we put around 6,000 miles on the 5w after the refresh. The car functioned perfectly fine but every time I drove the roadster (with a T5), I couldn't get over how well that trans performed compared to an early Ford trans. Since the car was done (to some extent), I did not want to have to redesign a rear suspension to go open drive T5. Knowing my two constraints, it meant I was going down the path of a closed driveline T5 conversion.

The closed driveline T5 leaves you with two options - the S10 4x4 trans, or the Jeep 4x4 trans. Both variants are non World Class units (more on that later). Even though the S10 variants are more plentiful, I preferred the more compact rear housing of the Jeep variant. I ordered a closed driveline kit from @Kato Kings here on the HAMB, and purchased a rear housing and S10 NWC box off of ebay for mockup.

I also decided that I wanted to retain my stock mechanical clutch linkage (it worked very well), so I decided to put a Flathead to GM trans adapter behind the sbc to early Ford adapter I already had. This had two advantages - 1) it allowed me to retain the original clutch system and 2) this setup was less bulbous than a GM bellhousing, meaning less floor intrusion. I picked up an adapter kit from @krylon32 here on the HAMB that he sells for putting a T5 behind a flathead.

 

With my mockup pieces together, it was time to get to work. I got the floor out, followed by the engine and trans. I pulled the torque tube and driveshaft out, leaving the chassis open.



With a lot of measuring, I determined that the top "bridge" of the k-member obviously had to go. The center hole, which allowed the driveline to pass through originally, also had to be enlarged. I rough trimmed this opening first to get the transmission through. With the carefully piloting of this transmission through the k-member, I was able to leave the "belly" of the structure untouched. This was very important for me as I did not want to disturb the wishbone attachment.