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Projects AWB Chevy II build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Doctorterry, Apr 10, 2017.

  1. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
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    BCCHOPIT
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  2. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    Not exactly. I still want to run the mono leaf but to make it work I think I'll have to put the axle housing on top of the leaf..


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  3. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    I'm trying to avoid resorting to cool overs, but it sure would be a lot easier


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  4. Doctorterry
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  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
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    If you are going to use the leaf springs, the frame can end at the front spring hangers....
     
  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
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    As for the axle over/under the springs...are you building a 60s drag car, or a 70s type street freak?

    :)
     
  7. Jim, I keep coming back to this one.It has me a bit worried ;-)
    Hey, what is the title of the thread where you built your Chevy II ?
    Or, do you have a link ? Maybe you should post it here.
    I thought you started with an AZ. car , so it may not be 100% relevant.
    Thanks
     
  8. If you are going to build a whole new frame, and mount the springs under it, you shouldn't have to worry much about tire room, the way I see it.
     
  9. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    The only tire room I'm worrying about is the outer edge.. between the tire and the quarter panel itself.


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  10. Okay, so you're going to engineer a complete frame for the car, including front and rear suspension, and then re -construct the body and weld it to it, but you just have to use that old, crusty housing and steel wheels, pictured?
     
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  11. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
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    from Missouri

    I thought you were going AWB so the quarters have to be worked on anyway.
    And if it is going to be a race car don't be puttin in no rust hole patch's.
     
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  12. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    The crusty housing and the steel wheels are exactly what I'm gonna use... I bought the housing because it doesn't have to be narrowed. I don't want to radius the fenders.


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  13. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    Shouldn't I patch rust holes in the inner rockers since they offer a decent amount of the structural integrity for these cars?


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  14. You are building a complete frame, yes?
    You are going to have at least a six point bar, yes?
    I wouldn't worry too much about the inner rockers.
    Maybe you are going to build a partial frame. You mentioned 2x3.
    The subframe stubs are more like 2 x 2.How are you going to deal with that?
     
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  15. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    I'm going to run the frame rails tying into the fire wall and the straight back, and I'm going to tie into the rockers in front of the door, and then behind the door. The 2x3 will just stick out the top of the original frame. That will still be okay I think. The floor will just be an inch higher.


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  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
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    you might want to tie the (new) frame to the rockers, probably at the same places the cage will attach to the floor. I would patch the holes in the rockers, anyways...
     
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  17. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    Yes that is the plan


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  18. Yes, I would patch the rockers too, and any other rust hole. Not a fan of RR's
    What are you going to tie the frame rails into in the rear?
     
  19. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    Not quite sure. Do I need to tie them into anything?


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  20. Doctorterry
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  21. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
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    from Missouri

    If it were me and I had rust in the inner rockers and was puttin a roll cage in it I would replace the inner rockers with some out riggers (for a better lack of the term) that tied to the main frame rail. That would make me feel safe with a roll bar mounted to it.
    But that's just me.
     
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  22. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    I'll draw up a little sketch of my idea in a little bit


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  23. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    [​IMG]

    Of course this isn't proportional, but this is what I pictured. I accidentally drew the rockers all the way back, so the shaded in part is behind the rockers. Do you guys think I should tie in to the rockers in more than 2 spots on either side? I planned on bracing the quarter panels to the frame with 1/2 inch solid rod braces like you'd see on a pick up truck to keep the bed sides from flapping.


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    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
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  24. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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  25. I don't see any real problems so far.
    Don't limit yourself with tire room too much, after doing all that work on a frame.You might decide to narrow the rear a bit some day.
    You ought to find a rear section from another car , and put that back together ,before you get too deep into the frame layout, like I said earlier. Could be from a 4 dr parts car. I'll bet somebody here has one.
    The bumper bolts directly to it on those cars, and not to a frame or subframe.
    Are you going to use leaf springs, in stock location, or moved in? The rear shackles will need to be mounted to something back there.
    Forget the rod idea. Tie it all in, in a normal manor.
     
  26. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
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    The leafs will be moved in a few inches for more tire clearance.. then I will make a spot to mount the shackles. The only reason I thought of the rod idea was that I don't know how to tie an aluminum floor into steel quarters... I could run 1x1 square tubes from the frame all the way out to the quarter. That will probably be necessary anyways to help brace the floor.


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  27. Tie the quarters together in the middle first, like I said, twice now.
    Then tie the back piece to the frame rails. You need something to attach the bumper and trunk latch to, anyway.
    You could always use some small 3/8 " rod braces from the frame down to the lower lips on the quarters, if needed.
    You don't attach anything to the quarter skins, themselves.
    You need a parts car, or at least a rear clip, unless you are one hell of a metal man.
    Jim, Where are you? Take over for a little while, okay buddy?
     
  28. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
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    I don't know how to tie all that stuff together, if you take out the original tubs etc. I left mine original, just moved the whole floor with stock tubs forward 8", then filled between the tub and quarter as needed, after adding a 1/2" round tube bent in the radius of the new wheel opening.
     
  29. Something along these lines is a pretty popular setup for Box Novas.

    shopping.jpg
     
  30. Your car had something to work with though.
    I see some tubs there still. Normally, I would do a mini-tub , and just bring the inner half over to the frame rails, with sheet metal.
    But we still might be talking about AWB here. I wouldn't try to save any of that stuff, if this is the case. Especially with the shape that right quarter is in.
    We shall see.
     

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