Hot Rods 1950 Chevy 3100 What's it worth?

I went through the "bonded" title process a few months ago, and although it was costly, the gentleman that did it for me had no issues. My car does have a VIN plate, but the process didn't involve anything other than giving him the VIN number. With the recent changes to the Texas state inspection interphasing with the registration, I'm not sure how it was all done. I just didn't ask questions. I didn't want to know. I paid the guy and he brought me the paperwork, I visited the local tax office, walked out the door with a license plate and a smile. Cheap? no! Effective....100%! Legal? I had a title 10 days later. I can't see any repercussions. I just wonder about when I graft the 1950 sedan delivery body to the 1952 Chevy style line body. It will no longer be a 4 door sedan as the title describes.

 

It's my understanding that what Henry says is correct. Mine is titled on the engine number.

 

I think I'm going to tell him to sell it in Texas and just hope the vin transfers over from title to title with no vehicle inspection. I will search the Texas DPS website and see if I can learn anything.

Not sure I have any free time but I'd like to see Kountskustoms. Their COE flat bed wrecker makes me smile...

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I just did your homework. And I apologize for hijacking your thread. According to Ivan from Tx Dot, (1-521-837-4416, stay on the line until prompted to talk to a person.). I hate to say this, but if I understood correctly, they will issue a title and a vin based on the engine that is in the truck at the time you apply for a title. Once again, reality refuses to conform to my logic. Stupid, stupid, stupid. (Call and confirm this. It took less than 5 minutes.) So-once again, I am wrong. But the system is stupid. Anyway, that was the way they did it back in the day, and because of the year of the truck they will (stupidly) do it again. So - if I understood the state correctly, (and if you read this thread you may doubt it) Ivan said it would be best not to transfer the title until the truck has the good engine in it, because if you change the engine, you change the vin. INCONCEIVABLE. Twice, really, because I was wrong. So- I don't see what good your title is at all. It proves that you own an engine you dont have, and you have no proof you own the truck you do have, if I understand this, and its possible I dont. If the truck is not in the state's system, that may or may not make things easier, but a bonded title and most likely a visit from the DPS is in your or the next owner's future. I don't think a bill of sale will be good for anything except to blow your nose on. A title search may help, it may show nothing. I would also look for a vin on the frame, just for fun. It would have to match the body tag or the non-existent engine. I still think the truck would sell for about 3500, but knowing what I think I know now, I would treat it like a vehicle without a title and run away. But that's just me. Best of luck with it, and thanks for your patience.

 

I promise...I'm looking for a job...not getting sidetracked..ok maybe a little

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Or more....

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What happens in Vegas... stays in Vegas!

Best wishes on a successful job search!

 

Ok - Back from Vegas - and I got a job. Actually been trying to figure the new gig out this week - so no work on the 3100. I did get the cap in the mail for the master cylinder (thank you - you know who you are ) On the list for the weekend is...
-Fix the fuel line leak at the carb
- Change the oil (& filter?) I guess that big canister next to the air cleaner is the filter...(I need to see what's inside)
- Check compression
- Set timing
Drive it, & make sure the brakes pull straight...guess I need to learn to adjust those star wheels

 

Sid's MAGIC. Best hookup on the HAMB... you can rely on Sid...and Okie Joe.
The info (pictorial!) on Sid's site identifies every axle, please go there to learn.
We should ALL know this, there it is.
...and, I always adjusted valves RUNNING on these old Stovebolts. I can't possibly be the eldest Chev wrench still on here! I might add...If my mentor, Red Mayfield, ever saw me adjusting valves with engine NOT idling, (statically) he'd have fitted my butt firmly with a well worn cowboy boot.
So, let it run. Idling. At running temp. 170-180*. Slide that feeler gauge thru, while 'rocking with the rockers oscillating'. You'll find a 'groove', and your screwdriver MUST be a #2 blade, 4" handle, 2" shank. (they made a special tool, a box wrench with attached 'driver'. But it was for pikers and limp wristeds...BIG BUT, they aspired to adjust with engine running...)
That was the right way. Probably not now, in these days of California homopresence and Hondas... I hate progressivism.
Will the Chevy Stovebolt survive???

 

Changed the oil today - about 4.5 qts came out. Checked the oil filter - it was a Cartridge - looked almost new so didn't change it. Checked compression on #3 - it was the same at 60 psi. Checked #6 - it improved from 60 to 90 psi. Engine wasn't very warm - so they could get better.. It isn't really smoking much anymore.
The big problem today was the carb - at first it was seeping out of the bowl gasket, then it started to drip heavily out of the accel pump linkage slot. So we pulled the carb off and lowered the float level about 1/4". It was set to spec given the rebuilt kit instructions I had. We also tweaked the float arms to make sure that the floats weren't catching on the outer walls of the bowl. Those adjustments seem to fix the external leaks, but now the accel pump doesn't seem to work very well. So maybe there's a happy medium float adjustment spot where the accel pump works but the carb doesn't leak?
Also found out the truck has 15" rims on it - I was expecting 16", so someone must have swapped them. Everything is still 6 lug though.
Still need to check timing, but it seems to start OK.

 

OK - long time , no Blabber.

Finally got the carb fixed after 3 or 4 tries. After a drive around the block, gas would start pouring out the accel pump linkage slot. Last time I took it apart, I put the old needle and seat back in. But what probably fixed it was cleaning all the black rubber bits out that were hiding under the seat. I suspect that the short pieces of fuel line next to the inline filter have not appreciated a soaking in E10 gas since 2008 - so I installed a new filter and new rubber lines (before the fuel pump) and moved the old filter (seems fine) up close to the carb - and gave it new rubber lines too. Starts, idles, I can see the accel pump working but it still seems to bog when I goose it.
Then I noticed that the dizzy isn't rotating when I rev it up - so I think the vacuum advance is shot. It should move when I rev from idle up to ~2500RPM shouldn't it? Where does I find a vacuum advance for a 1948 Stovebolt 6 Dizzy?
And 6-bangerTim... THANK YOU for the static timing procedure - it worked like a charm. I would have never figured out what "true" TDC timing was after that dizzy pinch bolt came loose. That's pretty cool making it spark by just rotating the cap and then locking it down. I set the Octane rating to maybe 6-8 degrees after getting the TDC figured out - it starts and idles like a dream... a really slow dream... Is it wrong to wish for a 1962 327 high compression small block?
Thanks HAMBers - the end is in sight - I think Ed's son is going to buy the truck and restore it with his grandson. Happy Ending for everybody I hope. I will encourage a 1950's hot rod restoration of course...

 

I would file down the numbers on the pad next to the dist. Use my number stamping kit and stamp the correct number on the pad. Take a wire brush on a drill and knock off the loose surface rust spray it with rust converter and top that with flat black.

 

So the owner's son finally decides that he didn't want the truck... so you know where this is going right? I'm working on the boss to see if she'll let me buy it. I still can't get the carb to stop flooding. I have two filters on it now (before and after the fuel pump) and it still seems to stick the needle and flood the carb - fuel leaking out of the accel pump rod hole - which means that the bowl is over full. I'm going to put a fuel pressure gauge on it - and then try the new needle and seat one more time, and lower the float level. Oh - and the vacuum advance is definately blown.
Anybody know where I can find a good cheap Indian blanket seat cover and some seat foam?

 

And it is mine... And true to form, my maiden voyage ended with my friend John towing me home after it stalled in the hood - and wouldn't restart.. Took the carb apart, put it back together - started fine... Next day - same thing - runs' about a 1/2 mile - then goes dead when I try to give it some Wellie.
Turns out that "Gas Tank Coating by Renu" (Fancy Numbered Brass tag on the tank) don't mean Shite... The "Renu" coating is peeling off the bottom of the tank, sealing up the tank outlet, then floating up away from the drain when the truck sits a bit. At least I finally found the issue - and one new $175 tank is now on order from Amazon. I guess old tanks don't have pickup socks in them - there's just a drain hole in the bottom with a 1/8" pipe screwed into it. Ordered a Vacuum advance too - I guess I should start a build thread - I can see this is going to take awhile... I've been blaming the Rochester B for all my misery - and it looks like a poorly coated tank is the issue. No wonder those Garage Squad guys always replace the gas tank!

 

You need to change your name to 3100Jim64 now...

I guess short term plans are to get it driving better and reliable. Have you been thinking of long-term plans yet?

 

Yeah - but the F1 part didn't relate to Ford Pickups - it was related to watching too many F1 car races

Short term is getting it running well enough to run to the grocery store - and that means new gas tank, fuel filters, a vinyl seat cover & pad, a passenger door glass, and a rear view mirror. Would be nice to clean the rust off the dash and interior - and somehow preserve it.

Longer term is 50's hot rod theme - do the 3" drop axles & blocks (do I need to update the steering rods?)
New wide white tires (these 2004 Walmart $30 dry-rotted specials need to go...) - and I'm thinking radials
Was thinking these 15" steels were OK - but none of the 4 match - so I guess I need new ones that will work with some baby moon hubcaps. I love Steel Chevy rallys but those are more 60s...right?
Figure out what to do with the rusto-fantastico paint job. I tried to do the CLR treatment on the driver's door - and as I suspected, the finish underneath the rust is...more rust. If I'm happy with a primer and rust patina, then I could probably CLR the entire truck, then clear coat it with some satin clear...but I'm still thinking some kind of blue/black patina is more my thing... but I will need to artificially create it. Or maybe just some hot rod black over the entire thing - but that implies A LOT of sanding to this beast.
Structural Rust wise - the cab corners need to be patch paneled. The front bed wall is holy at the bottom, the front board stringer is gone, and the bed sides have some pin holes. And the tailgate is toast.
Long Long term - I'm thinking a hot rodded 235 or 261 with a 4 barrel/Clifford intake and some headers would be fun. Of course a 327/283 V8 would be cheaper & faster - but maybe not 50s hot rod appropriate.
And if it's ever going on the highway then I guess an S-10 5 speed is needed - and I think that leads to a Chevy 10 bolt or Ford 9" ? I have plenty of old Ford Bronco 9" rear ends with 3.50 gears.
Oh - and it needs a bed wood job.

That should last me a lifetime...at my normal pace.

I'm all about suggestions - since I can never make up my mind about anything. My primary rule is not to take it off the road for more than 3-4 days at time - so it doesn't become a garage art project. Already breaking that rule now - waiting for a gas tank, hope to have it by the weekend.

 

I like it. A lot of your long term plan mirrors what I'm doing, or plan to do.

If you go with Nostalgia Sid's for the drop axle, the steering arms will be taken care of when the axle gets done.
I imagine you can find some wheels at the various swap meets and end up with a matched set.
My 216 is still humming along, but I've got a 235 at the machine shop waiting patiently to locate a good 848 head and move forward with getting it done. I've got an S10 T-5 and disc brake parts sitting around waiting for me to get all the details lined out so I can swap some stuff on without having the truck torn apart for a long time. I had bought a '55-59 rear axle and have been reading a little about changing the center section so that I'm using my '50 rear housing (and the proven and currently functioning rear drum brakes) with the open driveline '55-59 center and what I hope is a 3.90 gear in it. Checking that out is on my to-do list.
In my opinion, a SBC wouldn't ruin the '50s vibe at all if it was dressed to look the part of a 283.

 

Absolutely - your truck is my inspiration - get it low and looking better - without spending a ton of $$$$. You already gave me the tip on Sid's - his rework seems to be more complete (and maybe cheaper?) than just buying a new drop axle from Speedway? I guess my question was - are converting the steering arms a "must do" or a "nice to do" when you drop the truck?
I'm also going to need some pointers on:
T5 swap
Disk Brake install
55-59 rear axle/center section change (previous owner spent a ton of money (in 2008) on a full 4 wheel brake job with new hoses - so it seems stupid to throw them all away... but I really don't want to go buy "new" 6 lug wheels if I'm going to swap in a new rear end and disk brake rotors with newer style 5 studs... that would be stoopid...

And... since I've never been into 50's cars before - what swap meets or junkyards are worth the time? I've heard that there's a big one in Sequin? That said - are you coming over for Lone Star roundup - it's so close to my house, I won't have to walk far after the truck quits (again... hopefully the new gas tank and maybe new carb will fix that)

I will figure out the whole Stovebolt vs SBC when I have a lot more time & money. The 216 better be good enough for a while - hopefully a new vac advance and a carb not full of tank rust will wake it up. I suppose a rich man would just swap a Crate LS/4L65E into it - with a mustang crossmember and all the goodies - but that doesn't seem to match the 50s hot rodder vibe I'm going for.
PS. The Gas Tank is here! The Gas Tank is here! New Canadian built tank - Amazon Prime is my friend. (and lower priced that any of the Taiwanese tanks on Ebay)

 

Just noticed the updates to this thread. Congratulations on buying it (and the new job).
Sound like good upgrades you have planned. Join the Advanced Design social group and do a build thread ( or-- sorry, 67-72 chevytrucks forum has lots of folks into these rigs- great place to research)
If you want disc brakes, 5 lugs and a t5 you probably should look into swapping the entire rear diff for something else instead of the center section and whatever the plan is for lugs. Sixties/seventies Nova (or equivalent) are the standard(ish) swap. Camaro too but too expensive now.
Have fun- good luck
Oh! Almost forgot, what was the verdict on the title? Be good to close the loop so others know what to expect.

I'm working on a 51 gmc right now, but it's a little different direction then yours.


"I'm not certain that I understand everything I know about that"

 

The title...yeah...the title... Well I basically kicked the can down the road until the day I need to sell it. As I suspected, Texas just let me transfer the title into my name, without a VIN inspection or any inspection as all. Only problem was the vintage "1950 Truck" plates he had on it - were too rusty to use - so they made me go with the Dorky Texas "Antique Vehicle Plates" - which technically only allows you to drive it in parades, car club meetings and to the repair shop... But then I talked to my neighbor, the Austin cop - who told me to drive down to Police HQ and check out all the cops daily driving project cars with Antique Plates... enough said. They are cheap - and don't require an Annual safety inspection. The vehicle just has to be 25 years old or older - I guess being 67 years old qualifies...
Now when I go to sell it... if the buyer cares... then we'll have to do something about the title vin not matching the engine block VIN or the door frame VIN (engine was changed at some point). I suppose I could do as suggested and grind/re-stamp the VIN on the engine block - but that seems shady to me, and I will likely change the motor at some point anyway. I do plan to sandblast and repaint the plates - I love the black and gold '50 plates - very cool.

Right now - it's running great with a new gas tank and a cleaned Rochester B. I'm doing a brown vinyl recover on the seats with an LMC Truck cover kit - and I found the entire seat frame was no longer bolted to the tracks! (thus my "tilt" seat in an earlier post). All 4 nuts were gone - and the seat platform was just floating on the studs... nice ! Cleaned a mouse nest out too - he had a nice condo built under the bottom seat springs.
I just want to lower this baby and drive it - but that requires Sid in OK - and some new tires. It's only money...and time...

 

So what was it worth?

 

$3500 minus time off for good behavior

 

Just read the whole thread. Great job getting it running and then getting it home. If your house is like most, getting it running was probably way easier than convincing the wife to let you bring it home!

My suggestions, for what they're worth, is replace the tires with whatever fits the wheels and drive it. Maybe get a gallon of Rustoleum and paint it, just to slow the progress of any rusting. You're way, way more likely to keep momentum on the project if you can drive it, so I would skip the idea of a tear-down.

Oh, and one last thing... You don't need to start another build thread. This thread IS a build thread. It's better than the usual build threads because it actually shows the origin of the truck purchase. Just keep updating here.

 

X2. Great thread, thanks for sharing the story in real time. Please keep posting.


I was a fan of this thread from day 1, and I'm glad how it turned out, you spent so much time and effort on that truck, it would have been a shame to see it sold to someone else, but you were doing a really good thing for those people. They got a really fair purchase price for the truck, so you doubled the benefit to your Karma. Right on.

Aren't you the one that went to a job fair in LV? Did you find anything?

 

I DID find a job in Las Vegas - with another start-up...which means I'm subject to unemployment at any second!

Opa the old truck now has new seat covers (waaaay too nice for the rest of the truck), a new gas tank, and a Rochester B that still pukes gas out the Accel pump slot whenever it feels like it. I've lowered the float level by 1/4" - and it hasn't done it since - so maybe it's fixed.... The steering wheel wobbles above 35MPH - so it could be tires, or kingpins, or ???
I have the glass to replace the cracked passenger side window but my fancy resto-mod neighbor tells me that I need new felts, window tape, and stuff - so maybe I should wait until I have the rest of the parts.
I've pretty much decided that what I've thought all along was true - the only "paint" left on this thing is red oxide primer - so it's time to sand off all the rust - and prime/body work the dents as best I can. I'm thinking the Tractor Supply Enamel w/Hardener is the way to go for now. After some spot priming... and some new tires...but I gotta figure out my wheels first - I have three of the "clip" type (pictured) and one with the outer bumpy ring. Need a matched set before I buy tires.

 

And YES, Mr 38Caddy - convincing the BOSS was much more painful than getting the truck running...kinda.. I had to get my daughter on my side (She's the Vice President of Exterior Holiday Illumination at our House) so I had to promise that the truck would be part of the new & improved Christmas Decorations... Behold - Santa Bronco and Grinch Bronco - both are newer than 62 so not HAMP appropriate - sorry.... So Frosty the Snowman will have his own Advance Design Pickup. Which leads me to another problem - I really only have the talent to fix dents and spray flat black. But would Frosty drive a Flat Black Truck? I'm not sure - I think White and Blue are more appropriate...

 

Seat cover looks good!

I should have some time to look at that spare this weekend. I'll text you some pictures.

 

So talk to me about lower "via new springs" vs "via Sid's dropped axles and lowering blocks" - it looks like doing with springs might be cheaper ($270 x 2) and I could do it in a weekend, vs removing the front axle (and steering arms) and sending to Sid's for some number of weeks...I'm all about doing it right vs doing it "fast" but I need some edu-ma-cation on this topic. I know Sid's comes highly recommended...I just don't want the truck up on jack stands for weeks if I can help it... One idea...Anybody got a stock axle that I can buy and send to Sids?

And in the fix-up department - I finally got the new Vacuum advance on - sure it cool to watch the dizzy move when you rev it up - and it runs better too! Maybe I'm getting more than 50 of my 92 original Horses now? As the NASCAR boys like to say - "She's all ate up with Motor!" or not.

 

Google images decided my latest pic needed an "old school instamatic camera" treatment...Kids and their Cloud Algorithms these days...

Then one of my smart-a$$ psuedo friends suggested that it looked like a "Cuban Whip". Great... A reference to my least favorite car show ever...Unique Whips. But funny anyway I guess...

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