Projects 1951 Windsor, baby steps and stupid questions

I'll apologize now for stupid questions I'll probably ask. The body work I've done in my life is extremely minimal and this is the first custom I've ever attempted. My patient is my 1951 Windsor sedan, I love 4 doors. My main goal is to get it safe and mechanically sound to put it on the road this year while doing minor things to the body until next winter when I can get more extensive. Sorry I'm long winded. First question: I want to put a good sized visor on it this year so wat gauge steel would u guys recommend using to make one?

 

I like the 4 door Chrysler Windsor too!My other one came with a visor.This one didn't. Bruce.

 

My other one I had with the visor. Bruce.

 

There are no stupid questions if you don't know the answer. I've asked a bunch on here and for the most part everybody was very patient and helpful.

 

unless you have strong fabrication skills & related tools this is a big challenge - do a search in classifieds here, eBay, etc for exterior sun visors to look at to get an idea how they are constructed - may be find an existing one that will fit your car - Fulton is one major name to look for

 

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Fabricating a visor would be a huge task. As for baby steps, that pro stock looking hood scoop looks, shall we say, out of place.

 

Thanx I'll definitely look into that first. I do have friends that fabricate and build cars all the time and I usually get the call to help mechanically so if I do need a hand I'm sure I can call for help. Lol. I just like to try to do it myself first is all. But again thanx for the info I really appreciate it

 

Lol. I just set that on there to get a rise outta my son! Haha. That is not and will not be a part of the car

 

Jalopy Joker it is hard to see the visor in that picture it is kind of a small visor..Heres another shot of it.Bruce.

 

I don't know about visors but if you are new to older model Chryslers 2 tips: 6 volt positive ground electrics, and left hand thread wheel bolts on the left side of the car (unless they have been changed). Those 2 things cause the most grief to newbies. Also the transmission is a thing all its own, do a search for Fluid Drive, it is easy to operate but different from any other trans.
That's about it until you try to do a brake job.

Over all they are a tough well made car. You shouldn't have too much trouble.

 

Ya knew all about those. Thanx. Mechanically I been doin this work for over 25 Year bit the body stuff is my Achilles heel. And I'll be redoing the whole brake system in about a week or 2. Kinda lookin forward to it, love the old setups. I'm still doin alot of research about the fluid drive, but it's cool when you realize that that was cutting edge back then!

 

Since you brought it up, lol, I have a couple of my stupid questions about the fluid drive trans. I've read the service manual and looked online but can't find my answer. Do I only need the clutch when shifting into gear the first time or do I need it to shift from lo to hi while driving as well? Also, I've gotten conflicting stories, do I HAVE to start out in lo or can u start out in hi as well? Definitely don't wanna damage something. Thanx again

 

Rusty, why did you bring up brakes? LOL.Bruce.

 

Don't know if you found this thread but about half way in a guy give a good long discription on how to drive a Fluid drive.
We used to call them "Semi-Automatics."
Hope this helps.
Torchie
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/51-chrysler-fluid-drive-questions.644142/

 

Definitely start out in High for all normal driving. Low for special occasions like starting off on a steep hill, towing a trailer, driving in snow, sand or mud.

Here is how I like to drive them. Start engine in neutral with handbrake on. Warm up for a minute until it will idle down slow. Step on the clutch, shift into High, release clutch. You should now be stopped, with the engine running in gear. Release handbrake, step on gas and drive away like a typical automatic.

When you get going 14MPH or more lift off the gas. You should hear a soft *click-clack* from below the floor boards, you are now in high gear of high range. Step on the gas and go someplace.

When you come to a stop light, stop as you would with any automatic. Take off normally, when you get to 14MPH or more, lift off the gas etc.

Low range works the same except it upshifts at 6MPH.

You only need the clutch when shifting the gearshift lever into another gear. Other than that it works like an automatic.

Use the clutch as little as possible. It is small and not made to be slipped or used. The Fluid Drive does that.

Takeoff from a stop is rather sluggish but it goes ok once you get rolling.

 

Thank you VERY much. That was the best explanation I've gotten. That was perfect! I really appreciate it. A bunch of older guys I talked to said to start in low then shift into hi while driving but your explanation makes alot more sense! Can't thank you enough

 

Thanx for the help. I appreciate it

 

You can start off like a manual trans car but don't rev up or slip the clutch. Just release the clutch and drive away, let the Fluid Drive do the work.

It is really a cross between a standard trans and an automatic, built at a time when they were just figuring out how to build an automatic transmission.

If you are doing a brake job get a BIG heavy duty 3 jaw puller that bolts to the wheel bolts. You will need it to pull the rear hubs. The hub goes on a tapered shaft and they can be a brute to get off. No cheap Chinese puller will do. Some come off easy but most are on there tight.

Remove the nut on the shaft, turn it over and screw it back on flush. This does 2 things, saves the shaft from getting mushroomed and stops the hub flying across the shop like a guided missile. Then put the puller on and wail.

And when you put the hub back on be sure it is good and tight and the taper fits perfect. It is the wedging action of the taper that holds them together, the key does squat.

 

That to me makes it that much cooler. It seems primitive now but then it was cutting edge technology. I kno who to look for with technical questions now! Lol

 

I should mention they idle very slow, 400RPM. They have to idle down slow or they won't shift correctly. This can mess you up if you are used to modern engines that idle twice as fast. A good flathead six will idle down so slow you can count the fan blades as they go by.

 

I hope the hood scoop is going away. Not suitable for a traditional custom at all!

 

As I said earlier the scoop was just set on there to get a rise out of my son. Lol. That being said tho didnt the idea of a custom come about to be an expression of the each owners individual tastes? So to say it's not "suitable" for a traditional custom doesn't really make sense to me. When "traditional customs" started they were looked at as not suitable by people then weren't they? Just askin

 

That should be printed on the back of some new HAMB t-shirts. Or window stickers. Or hats.

 

Claymart you said it. You don't need a 1000HP supercharged big block to have fun.

 

I agree

 

They weren't the prettiest car but had a certain presence. I would like to see one all stock, with all the chrome shining bright, painted dark dark blue lowered with fender skirts and wide whites.

 

I couldn't agree more!! the only thing I would add to your description is a big visor. But the car you've described is what I want except in black. To me not much is cooler than a mirror black paint job with all the chrome and stainless shining bright!

 

Saw a car like you describe at a show a few years ago. A 1950 Windsor club coupe in black with all the chrome shining like a show car. The kicker was the motor, a flathead six with finned aluminum high compression head, twin carbs, dual exhaust, beehive oil filter and the whole engine compartment detailed. It was the hit of the show as far as I was concerned.

 

I can't get enough of wat my father always called "classy looking" cars. I've had my muscle cars but you said it best about not needing 1000hp to have fun. My father kinda ingrained in me that fins are just "class". I bought my 60 Windsor about a year after he passed and that's going to get the "classiest" look I can give it. Lol.