I don't think there is near enough clearance between the lower fender and tire. I had these tires on years ago and it seemed to work fine - however the springs were shot and the front end sat a lot lower. Just rebuilt everything front suspension wise, including new springs and this is how it looks now. It still needs aligned but I can't imagine that would increase the clearance?? Do I need tires with a smaller diameter??
What size are the tires? The adjustable strut on the lower arm does the caster on the '65 Chevy. If you crank it to get more clearance, the lower ball joint moves back and you wind up with more negative caster. See what the reading is first if possible.
An H78-14 is a pretty big tire on the front of that Chevy. It originally would have had an F78-14 or possibly a G78-14, an H is at least 1 size bigger and likely 2 sizes bigger. Would work on the rear, but the front is iffy. An H78-14 is a big Buick or Caddy tire size. Gene
Drivers side is about 1 1/2" clearance and the passenger side is about 3/4". Thanks for asking that I got "target focus" on this side and didn't even think to look at the other one! H78's are tall, for the time being that is what we will use if can until budget allows. Still getting my alignment tools sorted out, I have zero experience doing alignments so it takes awhile. TexasWebb, thanks for the compliment-
That looks like it needs to move back a bunch, something don't look right to me. I've never seen an alignment move the tire forward or back as far as that looks like it needs to. Didn't by chance get the A arms switched side to side or something did you? I dig the Appliance wheels BTW. They were a real popular around here when I was in High School.
I don't think we got the arms mixed up, if I remember I think there is only one way they could go, I will sure look at it though. I too like the wheels, I think they look "right" on this vintage. Having a heck of time getting the run-out adjusted out of the brackets that hold the caster/camber gauge to the wheel. Drivers side came out OK but pass. side is fighting me. I am a total newbie with alignment equip. if anyone has any advise. Thanks-
Dan... Get (borrow) a magnetic hub gauge, or if not use a magnetic protractor. (sears) Draw a line on the floor longitudinally, outside the edge of the tire. Now, using a simple mechanical protractor, draw an intersecting line from the center of the wheel 20 degrees forward, away from the car. Do the same rearward. You will have drawn a 'K' next to the driver's wheel. Turn the wheel 'out', so it matches the 20 degree line. (left wheel, turn 'out', or 'left') Apply the magnetic protractor ("angle finder") to the hub center (dust cover off) and read the value. Now, turn the wheel 'in', or 'right'. The angle finder will read something different from the first reading: The degrees difference is your caster. (positive or negative) For positive, the readings on the gauge will be 'clockwise' from center. The right side will be read the same. I hate to offer these bits of 'rough garage measurements', especially relative to wheel alignment, as there is ALWAYS someone that screams that "You can't do that with..." Grain of salt, Mac. Semper...
Is the ball joint center equidistant from the mounting holes? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Jack up the wheel and spin it watch the bubble when the is in the middle of it's travel use that point. If you do not have turn tables two 1 foot squares if Masonite smooth side to smooth side with a little grease works. Check both sides for the amount of threads in front of the strut rod nuts. Not knowing whos parts you used are the front and back bushing located the same on both sides?
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