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Hot Rods now a '33 5w chopped ford hemi coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 2345.coupe, Aug 20, 2016.

  1. thanks brEad.......
    well, here's whats next.....wishbone through the frame mounts.......
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    brigrat likes this.
  2. well, we got the wishbone hardware installed. Just have to cut the bone at the top of the knuckle where you see the tape.Then split it open till the axle is at 5-7 % and weld her up........
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    kidcampbell71 and kiwijeff like this.
  3. Love the rearend setup. Looks like your having fun now.
     
  4. 31aford
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 109

    31aford
    Member
    from az

    Have you set the body back on the frame since you put on the rear suspension? I'm curious to see if you have to modify the rear floorboards for clearance for the front spring hanger.
     
  5. yes, I've put the body back on several times.........never noticed it hitting, but next time I put the body on I'll take some pics and post them......


    Tim, you know the rule......"if your not having fun your not doing it right"
     
  6. well, I started repairing the doors. There the most challenging doors I've done yet. The only way I can set them in the hinges is hoist them up with a rope.
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  7. Man that looks like fun!! That thing is in good condition, makes it a ton easier when you don't have to buy every patch panel known to man to fix it with.
     
  8. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Yeah the wheel patch or the floor are absolutely ridiculous money!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  9. well, I couldn't control the patch panel to properly weld it in so I cut some more access holes in the door.The extra access holes also enable me to chip off the tar undercoating .
    We also put breathers in the hemi valve covers and cut the bones,set the angle at 5% then welded them up again.......
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    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  10. more patch panels.....more progres.....
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    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  11. Nice! I like those through frame front wishbone mounts. Makes a nice detail on the frame.
     
  12. thanks brEad......
     
  13. well, she's a roller.......
    also finishing up a door patch panel, plus cutting some rot out.......bought some inner rockers....
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    kidcampbell71 and adam401 like this.
  14. well, we got the hot heads adapter ,spacer and flywheel mounted then the transmission was mounted. And yes we bolted the torque converter to the flywheel. In case you're interested the torque converter is a 1700-2100 stall
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  15. well, I'm working on the inner rockers, cutting out the rot then replacing with solid metal panels.....
    also removed the center of the cross member to get ready for the motor and tranny.
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  16. well, I removed all the old inner rocker, now I'm ready to paint some zinc phosphate on it and install the new inner rocker....
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    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  17. well, I treated the rusted areas with zinc phosphate. I checked out the price of floor sections and decided to make my own. I also added a piece of stock to the cowl "foot" for extra strength.
    I mocked in the inner and outer rocker and now I'm just figuring out how it's going to work......
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  18. well, after a lot of measuring and figuring ,this is what my buddy and I came up with....
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    also doing some patch panel work and door alignment work....
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  19. I really enjoy following along. Great progress Rich.
     
  20. thanks buddy.......
     
  21. well, I had to modify the firewall, moved it back 4"to accommodate the hemi.....
    also got the door lined up pretty good ....the cowl patch panel is not the best so I'll have to do some lead work to make it look better.....
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  22. You're gettin there! Looking good.
     
  23. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 2,067

    Dirk35
    Member

    Rich, You're making awesome progress.

    I do recommend that you cut out that piece of tubing that you have for your current rear tranny mount in order to make it removable. You could weld a couple of plates to each end of the tubing and drill a hole in each corner. Then drill out a larger hole in the to plates that you have welded inside the cross member and weld a nut inside each.

    Reason is, with how you have it now, if you have any transmission problem at all, you'll have to pull the entire engine to get the transmission out. I would think that 4 1/2 grade 8 bolts would hold it just fine. I uploaded a crude drawing of what Im suggesting.
     

    Attached Files:

  24. thanks tim......

    thanks Dirk.......great idea,thanks for the drawing.......
     
  25. Xman
    Joined: Nov 17, 2011
    Posts: 534

    Xman
    Member

    This is going to be a nice car!
     
  26. yeah........thanks Xman
     
  27. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,281

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Yeah, do what Dirk suggests for a trans drop out. Weld a brace across the X member above the trans to help keep everything together when the drop out is dropped out.
     
    brEad likes this.
  28. well, had to relocate the bones in order to make the mustang steering box work.....also moving the bones down gives it a better look......

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    Last edited: Feb 27, 2017
  29. well, here's my progress so far .....it's been a challenge to get it to look right.....
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