Funny how building these things takes way longer than we originally plan. I've been following along and watching your progress. Making a little progress on mine as well. I opted for the aluminum cover for the body .. just have to remove the steering wheel, step over the cover and onto the seat to get in. Your cover looks so nice I hope you can find a way to keep it. Anyway, here's where I'm at with mine.
Very nice! I have been practicing and I think I can get in and out with the cover in place. If I can still get in tomorrow, I'll get them made in 'glass, and get them mounted. I m not real flexible due to back issues. I have a buddy that offered to drive if I can't get in.
Are you going to run wheelie bars? I'm never driven/built one of these, but I hear that when you use a trans brake, you can lift the front end a bit much! Now - I don't know anything, just wondering what the HAMB gang thinks on this?
Yes, the car had wheelie bars on it before, and I will put another set on it. Possibly James, will have to see.
Today what many call a altered was in the day a coupe or sedan body with no more than 25% engine setback. Roadsters the same specks. Anything more than 25% and you had a competion coupe or sedan,and more than 25% in a roadster and you had a modified roadster. For the do it yourself guys these classes allowed for a lot of imigination.I sure miss the 60s.
Another option would be a retractable step. Basically it is a tube that can slide in and out of the side of the car and lock in either position offering you a step up into the car. The locking pin can be accessed from the driver's seat. Don Davis offers this option on the roadsters he builds. (Don Davis Race Cars). I tried finding a picture of it but wasn't able to.
The car does have a permanent step on the left side. Still hard to get in, but I like the look of the closed up cockpit, so I will have to get in somehow.
We had wheelie bars on and took them off, we do not use a transbrake, jut punch it from an idle and it never picks them up over a foot. We did put non skid material on the chassis to keep from slipping when climimbing in and out of the car. We climb up onthe tire holding the cage and step in
Here is a pic you can see the non skid material on the top frame rail, i am 63 and fat and i can get in this way not pretty but it works
here is mine waiting in the wings maybe someday but not this year. its for sale if you are interested. good luck on your project I really like your choice on using the W motor!
I am 46,short legs, bad back, and fat and there is no way I could get in your car without a crane! On a good day I can get in mine, on a bad day, maybe not.
thanks so much for the inspiration, I was feeling a bit alone in trying to do a short wheelbase altered. this is a few months back being mocked up.
Lotta power in a small package you got there! Should get your attention Sent from my SM-T550 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Did a spray out of colors Wimbeldon White, and Electric Green with Greengo flake. I love it! My buddy Rob nailed the look. Now to paint the body. Also found a local sign painter for lettering and such.
Wheelie bars tacked on axle, will be fully welded with housing in jig. Deflector done, wheel tubs done, and made stand for the body. Body has been delivered to the painters. Hope to have the rest of the fabrication done in 2 weeks or so, then blast and paint for chassis. Moving slower than I would like, but progress nonetheless.
Body has been stripped, all extra holes filled, and 3 coats of hi build primer is now drying. Progress is good.
From what I can see in the picture---- nothing-- without a whole bunch of updates could run as a 10sec and slower car (no sticker required--yet) Any body thinking of purchasing a drag car with the intention of running it below 10 sec should have the seller either get the car inspected and tagged or at least have a copy of the inspection report to show what is lacking or rejected. at least with the rejection you can determine for the price weather its worth the work to fix or not. If the seller is unwilling to do that---walk away unless you just buy it for parts.
I talked to a sign painter today. Hand painting, pinstripes, gold leaf, all no problem. The only problem is paying for it. I just spent 1500 getting paint supplies, and I am not done yet. Remember, this is just the paint for the body, not the chassis, or anything else. I should be broke in no time.
The Jalopy Journal
