I recently bought a 1941 Ford pickup. It has the original rear which I'm going to replace with a 9" Ford. I've gotten various local opinions about whether I should keep the original transverse spring, or should I switch to a parallel setup. I'd like to stay close to the original ride height since I'm not changing the front suspension. Any advice?
I know I can do it either way, I want opinions on which might be better. Engine is 350 SB Chevy, Turbo 350 trans
i've done it both ways on a `40 , can't really say what is better i can say which one would be cheaper and easier...parallel leafs
Will parallel leafs lower the vehicle noticeably? A- C.E. or TCI parallel kit will raise the truck, you will need blocks to lower it.
I just installed the weedetr parallel kit to my 41 car this month. Really like how well it went in, and how well the shocks are mounting up. I think the truck and car share the same frame, but im fairly green at this game.
46 truck frame parrallel both ends and stronger frame , but you are not wanting to change frames I suppose
These may be of interest. A couple threads on installing parallel springs in 40 Fords. Cars and trucks are similar and share essentially same frame. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-springs-for-35-40-fords.557363/#post-6185218 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/a-40-ford-coupe-for-uncle-mike-build-thread.949053/page-6 Marty's transverse spring cross member mod. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-week-flatten-an-early-ford-rear-crossmember.865310/
I checked with CE and they said their kit would lower the vehicle. They did offer a high arch spring that would only lower it about an inch. Posies also has a kit that would also lower the vehicle, but they had more solutions such as reverse eye springs or different axle pads. Still not sure which route to take.
The posies kit is very nice, i used one because i bought a frame that already had the brackets done, but honestly i prefer mostly stock running gear configurations. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used the Chassis Engineering kit and the sourced 2" blocks from speedway to get it down where it needed to be.
Swapped a 39 sedan to parallel leafs . Used customer supplied kit, super easy .Did not change ride height. Used Granada 8 inch rear.
CE kit will take it down lower than the what the stock nose bleed height is on these, but not as low as you might like. I used CE (very simple installation, by the way) with 3" lowering blocks on mine.
I used the TCI kit. Out of the box, the truck will be stock height. It was too high for me, so I re-arched them.
If you're keeping original transverse in front I'll go with others and say the same in the rear and flatten cross member to lower.
I used the stock transverse springs in my 40 with ladder bars (similar to Pete and Jake's) and lowered it by setting the perches lower on the 9" rear axle. I liked the look and the ride was good. I did however put sway bars front and rear in the truck, side sway has always been the down fall of transverse springs. The 41 truck I'm building now has CE parallel leafs since they came with it when I bought it. Simpler to install (bolt in). I also had a set of those in a 40 Tudor I built, thought they road a little stiff and did have to add lowering blocks. If the Tudor was stiff, I wonder how the truck will ride, not as much weight back there. Guess I'll find out.
Ride height with parallel leafs depends a lot on what springs you use and how much arch they have. On my '38 pickup (essentially same frame as your '40), I hung the Camaro rear with leaf springs and hangers from an '80 Isuzu pickup. Torched the spring hangers off the Isuzu frame. You can see the ride height in my avatar photo, a little lower than stock.
If your parallel springs are alongside the frame, you can move the mounts up as much as you want to lower the car. If they are in line with the frame, you're limited. Stock Car Racing 101
The Jalopy Journal
