Projects 1931 Ford 3W Build "Marilyn"

Just picked up 2 17" wire wheels I'm thinking about running in the back, an original model a front and rear spring torque tube, trailing arms, '40 juice backing plates and the wood header for the cowl/windshield area.

I believe the model a torque tube will bolt up to the '40 juice rear, anyone know if it will? Another thing is the backing plates, they are rear backing plates can they be used as fronts?


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a little mockup photo!

doing some final welding on the d/s door on the skin
someone cut and re welded the hinge on d/s hood top flat so I had to cut those back off and put them back was thinking about just cutting off this hinge setup and make a new hinge setup for it but not sure yet


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Is it just me or what. As an apprentice I was taught the worst place for a vertical seam, in a long panel, was in the middle of a door panel or quarter panel. The door because it is subject to vibration when the door is opened and closed frequently an the harmonics of the two pieces joined in the middle of a panel by welding interact with each other and this MAY cause paint separation at the weld site over time. And the same on quarter panels just because of their length the vibrations work over the long panels.

All I remember is we NEVER seamed into the middle of them vertically we would replace a whole quarter rather than do it.. Horizontally along the bottom like for rust repair we would do.

Maybe some of our own experts can chime in on current thinking as I'm not trying to knock your work just wanting to prevent something bad from happening now rather than as you get further along.

It looks like you have the skills to make complete new whole length panels and now is a better time than later.

 

Thank you for the input, didn't think it would separate as I was planning to put a brace horizontally through the curve of the door, I was afraid if I made a new panel it would be too flat I guess the curve could be achieved by an English wheel and some time figuring out how to get it I may create a new panel now that I know this, Thank You for your input


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I had been following this mans build for the 3w he made and used his same door idea,


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That is one I haven't heard before ...I just naturally thought most people try to stay away from centers because it's too much work and potential for warpage

Not positive but I think walden makes his sedan roof panels in 2 halfs welded through center?

Really neat project , any thoughts of putting a 32 frame under it?

 

The main problem is people don't hammer weld it and wind up grinding to much metal away from the welded area creating a weak spot. Frank

 

Butt weld is way better. Most guys find lap welds easier.
The problem is the hour or two saved with a lap weld gets covered with hundreds of hours of body work then ghosts thru. That's how it is learned butt welds are better than lap welds.

 

Thank you and yes I've thought of it, just too hard to find for cheap and in decent shape


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Ahh , but new rails will set you back about $600

 

Butt weld was what I was writing about

 

MIG welds on sheet metal tend to crack if metal worked, or cause ghost seams. . Bob

 

Sorry I used Acetaline and Oxygen, all the technicans used Mig welders

 

Yea all my experience was with gas welding all the good stuff like mig and tig were just coming into use and our cheapo boss wouldn't get one for us as at that time they were fairly expensive.

 

okay everyone these are on there way 1931 Ford Victoria doors in very good shape, I could not beat the price especially since I still had to buy another pass door just to cut and stretch I could have made my doors work with my style stretch but it would take a lot of time that I could be spending on other parts of the car will still have some work to do on these doors as Vickys are slant window cars and I want straight post but at least my curve and length is now perfect! also got front spindles for my 40' Ford drums I got blasted and painted today and started cleaning the backing plates


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Nice score on the Vicky doors, now you'll need to find the cowl side of the hinges. I wound up buying a whole cowl at Hershey to get two missing hinges for mine. Bob

 

Was planning on using my cowl and modifying the hinge area of the door with the front side of my door scraps I had or if that doesn't work I'll find a Vicky cowl, just don't want the slant window for this one


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I like the looks of a vertical windshield in these cars too. But being a Model T guy for many years, I can tell you that the reflections you get in a vertical windshield can be distracting during the day, and downright confusing at night. A slanted windshield removes that problem. Just some food for thought.

 

I'd be tempted to keep the slanted a pillar and put a 32 windshield and header on it... But I'm a bit biased

 

I appreciate the info, I am definitely more biased to the vertical post model As as I have some memories of my dads and was really the first hotrod I remember him having! I'll definitely keep that in mind though! Thank you!


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I've seen and thought about that but am definitely in love with the A setup with the visor! Haha I understand


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Good Vicky doors are like hens teeth.

 

Are sedan doors the same length?

 

Not sure, but one has two hinges the other has three, and the bottom one may not be in the same location. Bob

 

No unfortunately sedan doors are not as long as the Vicky doors sedan doors are around an 1" or 2" at the most longer Vicky doors are 6" longer than Coupe doors!


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No unfortunately sedan doors are not as long as the Vicky doors sedan doors are around an 1" or 2" at the most longer Vicky doors are 6" longer than Coupe doors!


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No, Vicky doors are the longest,
And have the shortest window height.

The slant window sedan cowl can work on a Vicky with modifications.

There's no way I'd cut up a good Vicky door- there's a boat load of crappy doors to cut up. Some are rotted on top, some are rotted on the bottom, a bunch are rotted on both- few are good.

 

Mine were swisscheese rotted on top and the PO goobered the chop and hinge area. That was a lot of tedious work.

The tops have a curved sweep that matches where it lands. Matches the window track as well. If the top were were stretched to match vertical windshield post all of that would be off and need to be redone.

It will be tricky

 

Interesting project, thanks for posting, also what's the scoop on the airplane in post 95.?

 

The Vicky door is supposed to close flush on the "B" pillar too. Using the "B" pillar from a 4dr sedan works well to make a steel door jamb if you need/want that. I'm not sure how they'd close on a model A coupe?
The door innards are Vicky only too and are much closer to '32 stuff.