Hello Have just bought an old Model B engine. I do not now anything about how to build this engine. I'm going to build this engine with tips and help from everybody about how to do. I want the this engine to work well on road and track. This is not one of those super expencive engine builds, but we'll see how that ends ) . I hope I can get help from start to finish. Going to ask for one and one thing. This is not a quick build. Hope others can read what comes of proposals, and make their own decisions out of this. I will have a Facebook side at the same time for the build.
I guess the first thing I have to do is to take it appart . Then i have to figure out what I want it to be in the end. If anyone have a setup that is a killer for a Model B engine.. speak out ;o)
Start by checking out the monthly banger-threads, tons of usefull info on there! And then it all depends on, what you are willing to spend, and how much work you can do yourself. A good start would be a(nother) carb- lots of people go down-draft V8, but for a low-buck project I'd look for a set of SU (Volvo, Jags, MGs, and more) on a sidedraft (might have to build that yourself!) intake, get the ignition working, a high compression head and a new cam... but that's were the costing-money begins... I wouldn't pull it apart, but just check for slag in the core by pulling the oil pan and head off of it- if all seems tight, I wouldn't take it further apart. Keep 'em kruzin! Dannerr
Get a copy of Jim Brierley's book, Four Bangers and Me. Think about where you want to end up, and where you can get parts, and who can do the machine work. Good Luck!
That will be the funny part. I want to build old style engine I think. When the engine block is clean, then the Questions will start. I will ask al kind of stupid question ;o) But I think I need a plan before I start the build, or kind of a plan.
We have a Riley head on ours and it's a nice setup, I've heard the Miller heads are nice also. Honestly, just a high compression head will do wonders. Electronic distributor is a nice add on. With just a HC head a single 97 should do the trick. Have the block checked for cracks before you start putting money into it. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Plan suggestion: 1) Order the book. 2) Check the block for cracks, for instance: http://dannerrsblog.blogspot.dk/2013/02/bitter-sweet-news.html?m=1 (I can't see the pictures on my phone- if you can't either, I'll look for them, when I'm back at work). 3) Read the book. 4) Settle on the engine style/parts, you want to use (as you can see, almost anything can go on theese engines!). 5) THEN ask specific questions! Keep 'em kruzin! Dannerr
I do have to add...... I have several cars that are fun to drive, but our Roadster PU with a banger is by for the one we enjoy most. It's simple, reliable and we meet some great people almost every time we take it out. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Does it turn over? If so, I would do a compression check. If not, STOP. Could be anything, most likely a stuck valve. Do you want to go straight in to a full blown teardown and rebuild, or just get it running? At the least, you will need a carb (A or B), gasket set, fuel pump rebuild kit. The head removal can be problematic. Do not drive a screwdriver under it in an attempt to break it lose. Research the banger thread on here, as well as several books available on stock A's and B's. Go to the sister site, the Ford Barn, and search disassembly on the Model A section.
Don't scrimp on the bottom end. It's the foundation Don't over carb, too many people over carb and loose low end power. Just my 2 pence for now Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When i bought my tudor it had the model B 4 banger , the prev. owner flipped the intake en welded an adapter plate to use a vw beetle 1600cc 34 pict 3 carb. It ran pretty good with that. I got a flatty in the tudor now but i'm gonna use the banger in a Model A project i have , will follow this thread for ideas.
Having done some bangers, one of the most important improvements would be a model C counterbalanced crankshaft. Someone here should have one. While the rocker arm ohv heads are cool but a really good hi compression head will work wonders, and much less expensive. As for carbs as suggested above a couple of 97's work well and no expensive. I prefer the side draft SU's cheap and easy to work on and get parts for. I use either 1-1/2 " Volvo or 1-3/4" Jaguar carbs. The only issue with the SU's is that they are designed to mount on an angle so when you fab a manifold be sure you take that into consideration, you need to have the float bowls level. I lighten the flywheel down to about 30 pounds, then drill it for a modern Mustang clutch. cheap parts and easy to replace. Balance everything that turns. Cheap aluminum pistons are easily available, but balance them as well. You can buy a stepped key for the camshaft/cam gear that will offer some additional accel . Pertronics ignition is availible and fits right into the original Ford dizzy. If you decide to hot tank the block hang it so the Babbitt main bearings are out of the solution. Assuming the bearings are still good. The hot tank solution will attack the bearing material. I think some later B's had insert bearings. Good luck. brasscarguy
Had a hopped up B motor in my 30 pickup for several years before I put an inserted A motor in it. The B motor had a Winfield head, Ansen intake with a Holley94 and a Mallory distributor, ran good but still a 50 - 55 mph car with the 3:78 rear gear. Lots of good info out there, look up " Secrets of Speed Society" and "F.A.S.T." ( Ford A Speed Technology), was involved with both for quite a while.
Be sure to check to see if the bearings are OK. Sometimes old ones are better than new ones. Maybe if you are lucky hone it, ring it and balance it. Charlie Stephens
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