I'm getting ready to pull the original 85hp flathead from my '39 Ford coupe along with the original 3 spd with it's worn out second gear synchro and replace it with a '65 327 sbc and 200R4. I will pull the torque tube and replace the rear end attachment with a Speedway 6 spline U joint. Anyone with experience modifying the X member center to fit the automatic tranny? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am particularly interested in how you solved the kick down cable, speedometer cable, shift lever issues. I would like to use a Gennie floor shifter.
Add to that that every carburetor is set up for a KICKDOWN cable and not a THROTTLE VALVE (TV) cable. The two terms and functions are not interchangeable. You absolutely must install a geometry corrector (or properly make one) to get the cable pull correct, or toasted tranny.
Check out http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/1935-1940-ford-car-pickup/ They have plates to adapt most GM transmissions, except the 2004R; however, since these plates differ largely on where the mounting pad is, and the 2004R is roughly the same size as a TH350 and had the pad position like a TH400, you could use a TH400 one. Some have provisions to split the wishbones, and give you a new place to mount them. I would install a torque arm, too. http://www.chassisengineeringinc.co...shbone-splitting-kit-for-1935-1936-ford-t400/ Minor mods might be required. Torque arm:
If the body is off the frame , the C.E. kit is pretty easy to install. The wishbone split is usually done because removing the torque box from the frame also removes the wishbone socket mount. There are people who have fabbed a new socket to avoid this, but it takes some figuring. Also, the wishbone still has to clear the trans. The C.E. mount can be installed with the body on, but it's a lot more difficult.
There have been a couple of threads on this. I found one, but did not find the one by Okiedokie on the HAMB who had a real solution. FOUND IT. Installing a 200-4r in a 1935-40 Ford chassis with split bones Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Roothawg, Jun 8, 2015. 2004r trans in a 1940 ford Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by okiedokie, Mar 18, 2015.
Don't know why 4Merc's links don't work [for me anyway], but it is a fairly easy mod. Do the links work for you?
1932 Ford 3W, took out Th350 put in 200R4. Every thing size wise was the same except rear trans. mount. All the other info you need is from previous responders except lockup. Because original use of this transmission was on a V6 the vacuum lockup will not work very well. The best thing to do is put the lockup on a toggle switch. You will gain 200-300 rpm using lockup. Do NOT drive with the trans locked up under 40 mph, more toast. I went from 14mpg to 23mpg 16 inch tires, .350 rear gears, 1900 to 2000 rpms at 80mph. Oh ya speed limit in South Dakota is 80mph. Have fun, this car will cruse all day long.
No. He did not link. Here they are: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...1935-40-ford-chassis-with-split-bones.978649/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/2004r-trans-in-a-1940-ford.967916/
Not if you use the 4th gear port to ground the solenoid. Car slows down, downshifts, comes out of lock up mode. You can run the feed wire through a cruise control n/o switch mounted above the brake pedal. Brake on..no lock up .
Thanks for the links; I don't plan on an auto trans, but if my left leg gives out, I might have to go that way. I for sure ain't trading cars.
I mean that , if wired as I described , you won't be stuck in lock up mode when coming to a stop. Therefore ,you won't crash. Only difference in using a kit then , is the cost. I prefer the DIY approach for something this simple.
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