That's my plan. I'm considering putting a fishplate overtop as well. We do that a lot on equipment at work. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's not rust. It's a stress fracture. I also had a 56 ford that was bought and lived its whole life in Morro Bay. It would disagree about rust in Cal. It was made of rust. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yeah, there are some cracks elsewhere. This spot just seemed like a pretty strong place, so I was surprised. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm trying to wash this egg off my face right now. I am glad I don't have any rust repair to do on this thing. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That looks like a superb start on a nice cruiser. I wonder if it is the same shade of green that is on this 40 that belongs to a long time friend of mine.
So this guy is going in the Dawn Treader. I'm swapping the heads for some vintage fuelies but Jegs has the seal kits on backorder. I also seem to have lost the carbs since moving three times. I'm planning on using this to paint it and the trans will be gloss black. So question: has anyone done an engine in 1shot without their hardener? I was going to use rustoleum but didn't like the color choices. Threads here say 1shot is great, but no specifics on hardener or not. Any experience? Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would use hardener every time, especially on driveline components Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My dads car in about 1954. Believed to be a 1938 Ford Deluxe Tudor, it MIGHT be a 1939. I came home from the hospital in this a few years later.
Transmission paint is done. I guess that's some progress. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I finally got my crossmember clearanced. Now I can finish cleaning and painting the frame and firewall. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
With a 6 and 4 year old, I'm heading there slow. But it is very exciting. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Some success this weekend. Still slower than I'd hoped, but progress nonetheless. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You asked about not splitting the bones. I seem to recall it being done by spacing the ball down by using a second ball cap. You use longer bolts and nest one cap in the depression on the frame, then bolt a second cap on to secure the ball. I've never tried it but have heard it talked about, maybe someone with personal experience will jump in.
It seems to me that splitting the bones is detrimental and should be avoided if possible. I hope someone has tried it with intact bones. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
After seeing your response I tried to resurrect the shattered remnants of my memory. Years ago I had a home built cross member that replaced the original transmission mount and provided a mounting spot for the ball on un-split bones. I finally threw it away realizing that I'd never use it. I could probably sketch it for you if needed. I'm pretty sure you would still have to remove or seriously modify the center section of the frame to accommodate the TH350. The best thought back then was that if you do split the bones don't take the legs clear out to the frame rails, just move them outboard enough to provide clearance. This would be the least change to the factory geometry. If you don't already know about it, check out Chassis Engineering there "kit" provides for the least disturbance to the bones and properly reinforces the X-member. I can tell you that installing their kit on a car with the body on the frame won't be fun but it can be done. http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/
Lowering the ball, I have heard about doing it but not done it, adds caster which can be a good thing.
I'd also recommend the C.E. torque box replacement/ wishbone splitting kit. I've done 2 40's using it and it works very well. I'm posting a couple of pix of my frame. I had to make some mods to the C.E. pieces because of my trans choice, but no mods are needed for the Turbo 350. You have a good car to start with. I did a 40 with a 327/ 350 turbo with this kit; follow the directions and drill the holes accurately and it' s done. The hard part is removing the torque box with the body on, but it can be done.
I have their engine mounts, but might go with the TCI kit because I like the way they mount the tie rod ends horizontally rather than vertically. I'm not opposed to splitting them, but it looks like the turbo would almost sneak in there without the split. If it worked well, I figure a bunch of people would have responded already. Oh well, I've got a chopsaw. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
yes, click on the link at the bottom ( in red) of my last post. I can't compare the TCI as I have never used it, but I don't see any real issues; it looks like nearly the same design. The torque box needs to be removed, but also needs replaced as it is the key to whatever rigidity the frames are born with.
Yeah! The floors are a blessing, but it's gonna make the crossmember work a bitch. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not much to update. I built a new workbench and cleaned the garage a bit. I've been having fun with my 58 since nobody is buying it, and my continued work on the Dawn Treader is contingent on liquidating that asset. I'm going to dive back in soon and I'll be posting some updates. Sent from my LGLS990 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Summertime is rough for builds when you're a refrigeration guy, but I did manage to get the banjo out and the brackets for the leafs painted. I also started on the power pak fuelies. They already have long slot rockers on em. Just need new a lap and new seals. Some cleaning has begun of the engine. But I'll shelf that for now until its back on a rolling chassis. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
