The main crank gear on my 308 Hudson was safety wired ... I'd been wondering how I was going to but all that back... now I know. Thanks for the great tech!
What a great thread. There are two types of wire tie tools listed for sale (Speedway). One just seems smaller than the other. Is there a preference in use or is one just smaller for thighter spaces? I only have to do about 20 bolts--should I buy a tool or just wire by hand with a pair of vice grips as suggested earlier in this thread?
I too am of the opinion, it's better by hand... safety wiring I mean! I got used to it when I worked on the F107's at Williams- we didn't use pliers cause the engines were so small... then when I went to the PT6A's, the guys at Standard always gave me crap for taking so long- I just can't get used to pliers... And, there's only one thing on my car safety wired... the choke- it's wired OPEN. JK
I think there needs to be an additional tech - like....."Know when not to safety wire". On large pieces of heavy machinery it is sometimes best for failed hardware to fall away and show themselves as failed or missing. Yes, use them when a broken fastener can fall into the monkey works (or onto the track) and cause more failure - but don't expect them to hold or apply torque. The wire is so tiny (almost no tensile strength) and has so little leverage, it can't possibly stand up to the torque of large (5/8, 3/4 and 1 inch) fasteners. I once inspected a large gear drive (with a pinion and retainer hanging over our heads) - and found 7 of 8 capscrews SAE Grade 5 x 1-1/4-7 UNC Hex heads were broken with fatigue cracks - and the "safety wire" was thoughtfully holding them in right up place. We eliminated the lock wiring after the repair - and never put it back. Please think about the safety aspects of what the capscrews may or may not be doing - and what you want the wire to do for you.
I just want to wire the bolts that hold on the front quarter-elliptical springs to the frame. Two bolts each side. I figure thread-sealer and wire is plenty. Also plan to bat-wing bolts because I think I should. If no objections I plan to twist by hand. Thanks.
Hi Everyone. I know this is a old thread, but I have a question. The brake claiper bolts for my application are pre-drillef titianium. Due to clearance issues, can I clock the wire to the next hole, as long as the wire is holding tension and will not let the bolt back out. I have looked everywhere and cannot find the answer. Thanks, Jeff.
Its pretty much common sense, if it looks like its tightening and it will not be able to back off it shouldnt matter where you put it. There is no exact way on your hotrod to safety wire something. Now Government aircraft are a different story. Ive been doing safety wire on fighters for 6 years. they want it an exact way. but lucky for you, your not working on someone else's stuff its yours.
Be careful with safety wire. I know a man that was pulling the wire to make it tight, wire broke, and it went into his eye. And, it hurts like hell when it pokes a hole in a finger.
Thanks Joel! I kinda freak out on my stuff sometimes and just need someone to ease my mind. Thanks for the help.
Elba, I know what you mean. I don't safety wire very often. It usually takes me a couple of tries to get it perfect. Safety glasses for me every time, had a buddy in shop class back in high school lose his eye and always think of him when working with tools. Thanks,
Question: How do you change the direction of the twist from clockwise to counterclockwise as shown in picture 4? Did you do it manually? My safetywire pliers say that they can't do that. JimSig
You can "single strand" them if you want to...........Normally, 3 fasteners at a time are wired together.
You can do it by hand, and have a pair of "duckbill" pliers handy to pull your wire taut. My safety wire pliers aren't the fancy reversible kind either, so I do the reverse twist by hand, space permitting..........
When I was in jet school back in the 70's we were not allowed to use pliers just hand twisting, they said you could nick the wire and weaken it ! After jet school I was assigned to work on F4's and the first tool they gave us was lock wire pliers.lol I still lock wire all important components.
almost all the snap on ones now(which are made by milbar) are wavy jawed (non serrated) to avoid nicking the wire.
The first one on the left looks close to a "neutral" safety, it will do the job but the TIs are picky and would probably reject that. The pigtails are probably too long on them. I never saw anybody use the pliers, for the most part. Save yer money. The single strand safeties usually look like shit and they weren't allowed in the .mil anyway. Some of the components that required safety wire are VERY difficult to access, remember the aircraft are built in stages before all the cowlings and everything are installed. Certain jobs - "Hey Smith, I need you to replace the froonobulator on 672 today" would be met with certain choice expletives deleted because the mechanic knew exactly what that entailed. But other parts, at least on a nice day gave a chance for the mechanic to show off a little bit. Buy a roll of .032", should cover most of your needs. It's stainless or nearly so, it's not baling wire. Once in a while someone would safety up something with 60/40 rosin core solder to see if the TI was paying attention. Safety wiring your hot rod is sort of like setting up floodlights on your house at night, you better have it looking good. Unless you know what you're doing, don't. Also lots of safety wire installations are also covered in "spaghetti" tubing, it makes the task a little more complicated or at least time consuming.
Been around safety wire all my career in aviation. Never have used it on my cars. At least with cars you can get out and walk. Gary
I prefer the smaller pliers (6"), easier to use in tight places, the last one I bought was from Wicks Aircraft Supply, I used this one for many years. http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/item/aircraft-building-tools/safety-wire-twister/2w393
Having been in aviation for more than 50 years, (military an d civilian), kinda familiar with the safety wire thing. Worked for a Msgt @ Ramstien, Germany that HATED Q.C. / Q.A.. He would have me safety the turn-buckles on an aileron boost unit 4 different ways. As per AFTO 1-1A-8 was acceptacle. QA would look @ it and write it up, he would stroll into QA and proceed to show them they were wrong. He allways won, just liked screwin' withm I guess.
I've used safety wire most of my life. I learned while in the Air Force. Used it when I worked flight test for several aircraft manufacturers and on all my race cars over the years. Not everything needs safety wire . The rule of thumb for aircraft was "safety of flight" items. With cars it should be "safety of operation" items. That would include steering, brakes, and other items where a sudden loosening could be catastrophic. Never safety wire more than 3 fasteners and be careful not to wire the center fastener in a neutral position. That one item can give you fits if the fastener only has one safety wire hole. I know Henry and several others used single wire methods but usually they used wire the size of rope and in low risk areas. Regular safety wire is inconel alloy and is really tough stuff for its size. As an aside! When I was shopping for an upholsterer for the car in my avatar, a couple of bidders looked over the car and said "you work aircraft don't you"? I said I used to why?. They both replied "build quality" I was surprised and a bit flattered. Both told me that they see lots of hot rods and all generally the aircraft guys did the highest quality builds. So take pride all you safety wire stringing guys, some time people notice!
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