This 1955 F1oo has been on the back burner for a loooong time. I got into building open wheel hot rods. I chopped the top 1" above the back glass, 1" through the back glass and 3" below the back glass. I did it that way to center up the back glass with the side window. I used the top center sheet metal from a 1956 cab. I think it is about 1/2" lower. I raised the windshield opening 1" up into the roof. I cut off the drip rail and added rod to look like 33 Ford. I love the SBC but more than that I like something different. Out comes the SBC [and the cold air induction] in goes the 312 Y-block. It is .060 over with a mild cam. I built the block hugger headers from u-bends not a SBC kit.
I see traces of shopcat. Love the 4x2 Y-block, I was just browsing through the early '70's PHR Y-block build. You don't see that intake very often.
That's an Edelbock 2x4 with Offy adapters. I did the same thing on a SBC Offy and a Cadillac Wieand. Most other 2x4 intakes don't have enough room.
How did those Edelbrock work out ? Are those the repo 94's ? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks good. I like the fact it won't have a chevy in it. 350's are easy, and thats ok for most, but I think thats what holds some people back. A little extra love makes it right. Are you putting inner the stock style inner fenders in? A friend of mine took a second set of outers. He trimmed them to make a nice transition to the inner lip of the frame, which was boxed. It was pretty slick, sorry no images.
Yes but I will make aluminum inner fender panels. the rear attachments have been installed on the firewall.
I used a donner upper cab [ I think I paid $35.00 1989] that meant I did not have to add filler pieces everywhere. I used the center roof panel from a 1956 F100. It is about 1/2" lower.
Looks like you are going without running boards. I would like to do away with them and run side pipes in there place. I see you raised the bed kick , did you modify the front to compensate at all. Going to start putting cab parts together to see the rough alignment. I don't want the front fenders to feel like they are out of whack. How much did you kick it up in the back. looks like more than 3"? Your frame is pretty slick. Do you have any images of the cab on the frame with a little more detail in relationship to the kick up?
I can't get to it to measure the kick up and don't have the blue print any more but studying the first picture I would say at least 6". I will be fabricating running boards. Tucked up close to the door. 1" outer flange. Step sides should have running boards. Your side pipe idea is a very good alternative.
Those are awesome trucks...That metal shroud covering the engine is cool but it covers the other work of art. Perhaps you could incorporate some glass or lexan to allow a view to the shiny cool stuff...Just thinking... Happy New Year Frames
Cool truck with great modifications but I bet when you open your hood at a car show most people will think that cool Y-Block is a sbc.....
6" is a pretty healthy kick up. I was going to block up the bed on dimensional lumber ( 3/8" incriments) so I could whittle build the kick up and see everything in the same plane. To me, the bed a touch higher than stock. I don't like how low it sits in relationship to the front when you start messing with the hood height. I think the hood looks better with a little nip and the bed a touch higher. What tires are you running in back 32's? If I had 1/2 the metal skill and twice the motivation, I might get something completed. Love your truck tip to toe.
Ya I think my bed is more than a touch higher than stock. I don't remember how much. Did you see the bed front panel has a roll at the top? Oh oh. sorry I guess i don't have a picture. I am going to pie cut the hood. no more than 1.5". The rear tires are Mickys. 29-15-50-15. I call it a mini Pro street.
I made the smooth panels behind the headlights. [ first picture ] I tunneled the sealed beams about 1/2". I sectioned the headlight buckets 1" to move the headlights back. I frenched the rims. Installed the engine. The progressive linkage is my own design. for a smooth look. Will take a little time to adjust the beam, but once and I'm done.
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