i pieced together the tan '30 coupe body, used tudor / truck doors to try and stretch the body 1.75" to better fit the '33's chassis...pix. pulled the '33 coupe body off for the swap... then found the '30 wouldn't quite fill the gap, so i had a bronco 9" rear, plugged it in 6" further forward, then i went back and used the coupe doors... a good 'ol boy from texas wanted the '33 body... i traded for his whole car, a black, texas, '30 coupe...pic. ... hope it makes sense.
i would assume putting a `30 coupe body on a `33 ford chassis would involve a lot of work to make it look right
Mikes probably built more cars than you guys will ever build. Like a bunch of bullies in the school yard. One starts and the others jump right in.
Pic of my '33 fiver on my homebuilt rectangular tube chassis before the body swap... Channeled and sectioned 10.5" … bad back, neck said swap to an A body... Don't know about that, but i have had 239, now -[247]... 1928 to 1934 bodies, 1/2 body or more... The story goes, the guy that sold the '30 to the guy i bought it from says the old coot he got it from grabbed a worn and convenient stick walking toward the coupe, stepped around it and said shoo, while brushing the sunning rattle snake off the running board... Hence the name "snake bit"
Home made frame, stepped 5" in front and 7.5" in the rear..., pinto frontend, 289 cid/ C4, 3.50 ;1 - 9" rear, bobbed rear fenders, cycle front fenders mounted to the frame [not spindles] with pieces of A rear wishbones... buckskin paint, white firewall and roof insert, bronco seats, black ribbed interior... no top chop [neck] as that is why i swapped bodies...
I like your plan, and am very curious as to how your go about mounting the front cycle fenders to the frame. I run mine mounted to the spindles, and break the mounts a bit, although I have used some heavier steal last time, with no issues since.
I make a flange that bolts to the side of the framerail... then weld about 15" of a rear A wishbone to it at an angle... take an extra section of spare tire cover, shorten and narrow it, then weld it underneath the fender so i doesn't show... it re-enforces the fender while giving a rugged surface to weld the wishbone to... thats about it...
whats the wheelbase on this now? 106"? assuming you just shortened it the six inches you moved the axle forward- looks pretty decent on that 34 frame- wow.
Yeah Smitty, about time! Nice to see the coupe in the sun. Now stay out of the woods and your friends garages (gathering more parts) and stay in your garage! Looking great bud, see you before the snow flies
full frame ; cracked, weldable front crossmember, good rear crossmember, fair rails [I cut off the front 12" flip them up side down] weld them to the rear frame to support the rear spreader bar... pic. has the emergency brake cross shaft [my front spreader bar], lower pic ….. cost me $50.00 American.
red wheelz, piecrust tyerz and extended hood ! View attachment 4065860 View attachment 4065862 View attachment 4065861
it's alive ! making some most reassuring vroom vroom noises... problem was a vacuum leak at the rear of the motorcraft 2 barrel carb... sleep good tonight.
Monday the 25th AM pic... 86ed the '34 truck hood sides... alt. bracket in the way... saved 'em for use with a '37 truck grill I have stashed... bobbed the pick up rear fenders... yes, they are 1/2" wider than coupe, roadster, sportie and cabbie... [a tiquer took my tape measure and showed me]. think I may have to re-name her … "Rattle Can Rhonda" … sorry about the pinto frontend … I welded it in 20 years ago. View attachment 4240091
Hey, free is free! Half the HMAB needs parts moved across the 48, I can make enough dough to pay my divorce attorney...which will be a necessity when I leave home for 2 weeks on a car gathering "mission from god"
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