Projects 348 powered 40 Ford sedan

Next is the clutch master cylinder. As I'm using a TCI DC brake MC kit, I have an 'adapter' on the pedal cluster. After a bit of thinking and looking about, i've decided to make a new adapter that will also hold the slave, alot like this one Bass on the HAMB made for his rod


My slave is a jeep unit I believe, as recommended by novatek because it has alot of travel, 45mm with a 3/4 bore. They recommend a CJ jeep MC, looking around i found the landrover unit is 3/4, but i didn't know how much travel. It looked the same as the jeep unit, so i took a punt, unfortunately its only got 35mm travel. So at this point, i'm looking for a suitable MC..anyone?

 

Hey Kan, any pics, a build thread maybe.... love to see how your getting around the 'opportunities' in your build.

 

I wish I was that far along. I have a 40 standard coupe that was done back in the 60`s and was taken apart for rebuild and messed with off and on since then but never finished. I have been collecting parts, three pot 348, Muncie 4 speed etc. for a while now and am just now ready to blow it apart and make things happen. Watching your build keeps my old ticker in high gear. Thanks

 

Great work.

 

gotta love a 40 Ford Standard

 

Woo-hoo! Brakes plumbed!Thanks to Guy and alot off copper pipe, my brake lines are finally FINISHED!





And thanks to Tom Kelly on the HAMB in OZ, and my Mum for just happening to be in Oz on holiday, I know have my new 'clutch' pedal

Its actually another brake pedal, but the pushrod connecting arm is on the bottom of the pedal, so it will push backwards when the pedal is depressed, and the connecting arm is dog legged, so will line up with the Clutch master cylinder. I'll need to heat and bend the main arm to mimic the original Brake Pedal, and I'll have to extend the pushrod arm about 5mm to get enough pushrod movement, but hopefully it will do the trick.
Sorry about the boring brakeline pics, but this has been such a PITA to sort out and make, its good to have it finally done.

 

Well I hate to rain on your parade BUT, copper brake lines are a NO NO. Steel or S/S is what's the norm, but copper is asking for problems. And she's to nice to gamble on problems. Iceman

 

Maybe he used Nickle/copper lines. Perfectly fine.

 

I used copper guys, its the norm over here, supplied in auto shops, all British Standard tested. No problem as long as they are secured properly, which I've done. Steel and SS lines will also fail if they're not secured properly.

 

Something a little more interesting to update, clutch pedal.
To start with I made a new adapter to take the clutch and brake mc's, based on the one that i got in the tci kit.

Next, bend the new brake arm to follow the line of the old clutch arm


and this is why i've gone for a brake pedal on the clutch

and viola!!


Works a treat, or at least it will when I get the travel sorted, but overall, for about an hours work, I'm chuffed!

 

That is some crafty fabrication. Looks like it will be pretty tight for the exhaust pipe if you planning to run it through the frame. What are you planning for that?

 

Yeh, you're right, it's tight. When I was mucking about with the flattie, before I decided to drop the 348 in, I had run the exhaust through the chassis x member in front of the pedals, it was very tight, and I didn't have full clutch pedal travel, although I thought that with the clutch adjusted properly, it wouldn't be an issue.But now, with the mid mount and slave, and the emergency brake cable, there's no way the exhaust is coming through there. I've always wanted to run fender well headers, and looking under the car, there is enough room to get the exhaust routed under the chassis from the inner fender, and back up into the frame space without the exhaust being too low where it drops under the chassis rail. So, another little project, fenderwell headers, as no one makes any for this application. I was wondering if I could adapt sbc or bbc 'fat fender' or tri five fender well headers with a bit of creative fab up by the heads. Have to see what happens when I get that far.

 

I am looking forward to your fenderwell header adventure. If it comes out like all of the other projects you have done on your 40 I am sure it will be well engineered and work well.

 

Just looking at the 'Header' thread on here, and I fancy a set of these
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m79/kiwikevinp/headers/IMG_5389_zpsvmnzc5bn.jpg

 

Any updates ?

 

Yes, please.

 

Great job. It's hard powering thru all the little jobs and stuff, but you are doing great. Congrats on a great car.

 

Installed a 348 tri power (280 HP) in a '41 pickup in '63. Amazed then how small the bottom end was, just a perfect fit. Headers solved the steering interference issue, lower firewall just sliced and pie cut in the 8" width of lower center.
A friend with a '46 Ford Tudor wanted the same, only 250 HP 'W'. Similar slice at lower firewall, used a Cragar Chev adaptor to '46 column shift box.
Switched exhaust manifolds, then Tony's Mufflers did exhaust. 2", all the way back, 36" glass paks.
'High Zoot' for '63... Always liked those engines. Used Howards cams exclusively...

 

Atwater Mike, That would be the cool deal today ! You were definitely ahead of the pack in 63. Wish I could have been there when you built it.

 

Sounds very cool Mike, I've been thinking about swapping in a cam, but I think I'll get it running first.

Not really I'm afraid, a bit of tinkering been going on, re did mid exhaust hangers, as they no longer worked since the A crossmember going in, sounds simple, but a good day of evenings used, and then clearanced the floor under the back seat for the exhaust, seems the exhaust is a little higher than i thought, another days worth of time gone.
I've also redone the MC mount/adapter, slightly thicker material, allowed for countersunk bolts to mount it with, and moved the big hole for the brake mc down (thought I was being clever and centralised it on the first version, thinking that the chinese hot rod shop had got it wrong, turns out that it needs to be off set)
I've also been looking at progressive carb linkages. I cant afford $300 up for one, so I've been trying to figure out a way around it, but so far all I have is a collection of different new parts that dont work.
Headers have been 'researched', still really keen on the Drag Master style collector, but talking to various people I need about 36 inch long primarys, and although I know for a stock motor, it's not that crucial, but if i'm making them I would like to do the best job I can, but thats a lot of tube to squeeze in under the fenders, and the huge collector. I've now got the header flanges tho, so some interetsing fab ahead..

This has been in between 2 off topic projects, and the general stuff life gives you, slow progress

 

Hi Neil
Over here copper for brake lines are a complete no no, copper coated steel, steel or stainless steel are required, copper will expand under pressure and is more likely to work harden and fracture than the steel bundy tubing.

Your 40 is really slipping along, you will be driving it soon, well done
Grub

 

Hi Grub,
Yeh, I know its not thought of as great in alot of corners, but it is actually sold for this purpose. I think i'll do some more investigating, see what it actually is, as I'm sure it couldn't be sold for this use in lot of car spare shops if it was dangerous.

 

My guess its this stuff.

 

Had a little look, and found this:

http://www.automec.co.uk/collections/brake-pipe-coils/products/coil-copper-3-16-x-25ft

which basically says this:
We supply thick-walled copper 20swg which conforms to BS 2871 part 3, CN102 as well as BS EN 12451.1999. This material is 100% electrically and pressure tested. Every batch is also destructively tested for tensile and burst pressure results. Residue testing to BLS.30.JC.101 is also carried out on every batch to ensure cleanliness standards are met. This high quality thick walled copper tubing is manufactured in Great Britain and specifically designed for use with brake systems.

Also found this on another site,
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/copper-brake-pipe-fittings/automec-pure-copper-brake-pipe

which says:
Supplied in a 25Ft roll this pure copper brake pipe is ideal for making up replacement or customising brake lines. Pure copper brake pipes is more malleable than copper nickel and has a burst pressure of over double the specified SAE standard.



I know my pipe has a lot of spec written all the way along it, so i will check, and see if it ties up.

 

Neil,
I have a 39 'Tudor Deluxe Sedan and you are tempting me. Always liked "W" blocks. Will follow this post. BTW my bride was born in Sheffield and we lived in Wimborne for about a year.
For the time being continuing to run the Flathead (in process of adding a vintage Fenton 2 carb intake).
Wel done

 

Subscribed! Great fabrication and looking forward to more updates!

 

So a small victory,the clutch pedal is finally finished. I had to make another 'adapter plate', as I'd 'centered' the hole for the brake MC, thinking the adapter was a little hokey Chinese made item, but turns out that the hole isn't supposed to be centered! I then tiged a tab on the clutch (brake) arm, machined a couple of pins on my 'new' lathe for the yoke on the clutch and brake pedal to take a return spring, and made a little bracket to locate the return spring on the chassis using existing holes in the bottom of the K member. I still need those C clips tho..

I've also taken the rad out to get the hose inlets changed, but this meant I had to take the grille off to wriggle the rad out, as the water pump nose is to close to the rad to wriggle it up and past the inner fender wells. Not looking forward to re fitting the grille, the bolts that hold it in also have to go through the fenders and inner fenders and air flow plates, no way i've got enough hands to line all that up! I've since found out that Ford assembled all this off the car, then dropped it on the car as one part, I can see why.


I've decided not to follow my original 'plan' which was to get it out lowered with skirts, Sombreros and whitewalls, drive it for a bit and then hot rod it. Instead I'm just gonna hot rod it and drive it (hopefully..)

I've also worked out that although my 348 is a 58 model, its a second generation, so can take aftermarket alli heads, and doesnt have a rope rear crank seal, which is good to know
.

 

Was hoping I caught you before you took the radiator out but couldn't you have just made another gen mount to stick it on the passenger side to clear your rad house instead of having the outlet moved?

 

You are building a bitch'n ride! Thanks for sharing.


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Unfortunately Tim, thats the only place it will fit. I looked at tucking it down low on the passenger or drivers side, but with the front motor plate, there just isn't the room, not even if I went with a small alternator. I looked at slotting it in on the passengers side next to the carbs, but fuel lines on the carbs would be in the way, or further over, but that didnt work either. I have to remove one top and bottom hose mount on he radiator anyway, and the remaining top one needs to be changed to a smaller tube, so it all has to come off the rad anyway.