Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

I love it when a plan comes together. First order of business..... some cutting, grinding and smoothing of the steering arm. Before...



And after, next to her partner.

Good music and a good vibe.



Removing the factory race from the rotors was basic.... a medium hammer, a flat head screw driver and done. No pics needed. Next up.... mock up of the spindle, caliper brackets and steering arms.



As you can see, it'll be a close fit for the tie rod.



Conventional tie rod ends may work. I'm not counting them out.

 

I like. JW

 

Well, here we go. Other than demolishing an inner seal, it was a trouble free install. My only complaint is the mounting of the steering arms. I'd really rather have the bolts go through the arm and use a lock washer and nut. I'm not sure if anyone makes them or not. It's bugging me so much, I may just go with flat arms out front. Any way, here are the pics.

 

The up side to those arms is there is more thread than a nut. Cross drill the heads of the bolts and wire them after torqueing, also use a dab of anti seize. If you go out front with the arms you will need to bend the arms out to achieve Ackerman. JW

 

Looks good Fred. Just use a semi-perm Loctite on those arms and you will be fine. Check em each time to change the oil or adjust the points for peace of mind

 

I used flat arms before and got used to the Ackerman issue. Surely someone makes dropped steering arms that take a through bolt. IMO, it makes for a better install. I'll keep looking.

 

I'll be taking this apart next week for paint. I'll decide by then.

 

What exactly is bugging you?
The bolts go into threads the same as if you used a nut...except the threaded hole is even longer for more thread contact...and the "nut" can never turn. Use a good quality thread locker and a quality lock washer too if you like, and you're golden!

My car has bad ackerman and drives great on the highway...but it SUCKS in close quarters.
It's on the to do list because all the scrubbing etc when parking/backing up drives me right up the wall.

 

Hey Fred, Chassis Engineering has bolt through deep drop steering arms if that's what you prefer.
http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/ar-2121m-steering-arms-for-1935-1948-ford-disc-brakes/

 

Today I tore it down to finish welding and start having things chromed and coated and for bodywork and paint.
Whew Finally.
I'll get it tore down the rest of the way tomorrow and then the fun begins
Larry

 

"Hey Fred, Chassis Engineering has bolt through deep drop steering arms if that's what you prefer.
http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/ar-2121m-steering-arms-for-1935-1948-ford-disc-brakes/"


I've used those a couple of times. I like them better than the other style.

 

Yea, I saw those, but they don't have them dropped. There's just a sense of security in seeing a lock washer and nylock.

 

Wow! Looks great! I've been wondering what you were up to. And I still love those front brakes.

 

Fred. Here is a picture of the setup i recomended above.
You should clear the wishbones and still have good steering geometry.

 

Those bolt through dropped steering arms should be the same drop as the one you have. From the centre of the bolt holes to the bottom of the arm should be the same as they are both designed for the same application. I say "should" as I only have experience with the ones you have as these are what I have on my T, and with good results . JW

 

Hey Fred. my buddy has had those same steering arms on his T roadster for over 20 years,
No problems with them, Loctite is your friend.

 

Those CE arms work great and come in standard and deep drop.

 

I personally thing the arms you have and with the use of a bit of Loctite should be as good to go and safe. But your choice Fred. I do like the dropped tie rod ends that AndersF put a photo up of too.

 

Wow. Don't know how I missed those. I'll call them tomorrow and see if I can get them in plain steel. Thanks!

 

Anders, do you have a source and part number for those? That would be a sure fix.

 

Thanks for all the ideas and input guys. I'm going to do some checking and see what I come up with.

Dang, Blue. I hustled past your post too. Thanks!

 

He had a link on the bottom of page 315 Fred.

 

And, they'll clear the grease fittings. Another plus. Thanks.

 

I prefer those CE arms myself for the same reason you want, bolt thru

 

Okay..... I'm a bone head! Thanks!

 

Found an old HAMB thread and these will do very well for the tie rod clearance. Might be the ones Anders mentioned.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1948-64-Ford-Pickup-Tie-Rod-End-Drops,50152.html

 

I suspect you are referring to clearance under your spring eye; but if it clears thru the visualized vertical position of your shackle, it won't ever get closer and should be OK. If you do go to the CE arms, they are forged and can be heated and bent for a little more clearance.
Something to watch for, Speedway's 1-1/2" dropped tie rod ends in conjunction with your deep drop arms would probably get your tie rod well below the scrub line.

 

Actually, the wishbone clearance issue is 2-3" after the spring eye. I'll get the arms first and then measure for clearance.

 

All sounding very promising. JW

 

Well, the end to my steering arm drama came down to dollars and cents. Like most things do, when you're building on a budget. The CE arms are $140 for the plain ones. As cool as the CR arms are.... they're just not in the game plan. So, I'll stick with what I have. They'll grow on me and my wallet will be happy.

My land lord says I should use the arms I have now, because in my sub conscience there's a reason I chose them in the beginning. Of course, he was into his 3rd Jack and Coke. But it did make sense. So, when I put things back together after paint, I'll put a dab of Loc-tite on the threads and call it a day.

Thanks to everyone for they're tips and advice. Now, I'm going to measure for the tie rod, so I can get that on the way. I've decided to use bolts, spacers and heims. It looks like the spacer will need to be about 1.5" without affecting the scrub line and giving me a clear turning radius.