Hot Rods Roadster build.

Thanks f-head.
I'll keep an eye out for gen. Makes sense that it would have a better bearing system to carry fan.

If i need your fan ill pm you.

 

I just measured a 32 shell for you, 20"- I think your rad will fit. If your coming to Vernon, bring the rad and we can try it for fit.

 

And KMS had repo shells on cheapish last time I was there.

 

Thanks . Going to fit the rad i have and hope for the best. Its too wide for the mounts so i will move it ahead and solve two problems at once.

 

A friend gave me the two volumes of machine shop practice. Improving as i go.

Spacers fit perfect

No gaskets yet but lots of room

 

Did the mechanical early ford brakes use a grease baffle that i can use on my new backing plates? Or just adapt the hydraulic baffles ? Thanks

 

I have both types ya want em? I thrown them away and use real rubber seals instead of the leather crap. They used grease baffles because the seals didn't seal.

 

Maybe. I have plenty of hydraulic ones . I have a 36 axle in the boneyard that im going to use the bolts and castlated nuts for this project. If the baffles are there then im good. If not i will take you up. While i was researching i noticed 8 fasteners in the pics of the mechanical baffles. Are the riveted on aswellas bolted?

 

here is the pic?

 

Mine are all just held on with four bolts. I have two or three sets of them. You running mech brakes?

 

No . Early spindles. Adapted to hyd.

 

Seems to me, if I remember right, the earlier shields get into the bottom of the wheel cylinder.
While I agree that modern seals are better and negate the need for the shields, I like to use them since they are part of Henry's original set-up.

 

Thanks rich. Good to know.

 

the early round fit just fine . the four smaller 3/8 bolts are nice to work with in the large grease shields. no bending needed

 

I started with 5.5 x48" bent channel .125" material . cost $40 for the two pieces. if you can buy longer go for it . all the measurement start at the long point (bottom end facing K member).

 

next is making a gusset at the u joint to join the legs and tie it all together . I will be riveting the legs to the frame and bolting to the kmember

 

a little vid to help. the passenger side is a mirror image.

 

Looks good!

 

Model A front spring to 33/34 shackles ? What did you do? Stock ford parts or neat looking aftermarket.

 

.? I used cheap stainless aftermarket shackles. From 34 stock spring to stock perches.

 

I used some NORS Model "A" shackles and bronze bushings.

 

Model A spring has a smaller eye than the 32/34. I need to adapt the two sizes with an odd ball shackle. I have really nice 34 shackles that fully disassemble and was hoping to replace one end with model A or something. I know most model A are 1 piece but was looking for input on an alternative. .?

 

So you pressed a bushing into the perch or machined new ones? Id imagine you would have a hard time pressing in a bushing with a 1/32" wall thickness without some kind of mandrel. Thanks

 

If you are going to try and stay with all original stuff running a 34 main leaf might be the easiest option.

Or like I said run some cheap chrome shackles and just skim the od of the bushing.

 

I seem to recall @Chris did this in one of his threads. Maybe he'll see this and chime in if it was him.

 

had to enlarge the m\c relief


made a pattern for below my new legs. .25"


more patterns

machined some extensions for the 33\34 wbs


smaller adapter on 33\34 spindle

 

made spring spreader attachments for my simplex. I hope there is enough clearance on certain axles

 

spent the time I had this w\e to set up a used rotisserie I bought. had to fab a missing part but a good deal.

pushed myself past midnight Saturday to build something fun . spreader bar.

 

Hi great build !!!
what size Rivet gun do you have?
Micky

 

Its a 4x. I ordered 5/16" rivets and round head setting tool for the frame legs. Im certain that the gun will handle them. Thanks