HEMI Tech- Transmission adapters, flywheels, starters

Appreciate that clarification, even though it was obvious just need to check with the experts because the adapters looked the same, but I'm sure the depth is different.

 

Old thread, I know, but this is the right place for this question...

When adapting a short bellhousing (i.e. 392) hemi to smallblock 727,

Has anyone ever seen a flexplate made for an early hemi crankshaft (pilots over flange OD) that also pilots the later 727 torque converter hub???

This part does not require the additional crankshaft spacer / adapter that is in most if not all current adapter kits. This particular piece has three different torque converter bolt patterns. The part was painted red and has no name or part number anywhere on it. It was in a collection of early hemi parts dating back about 45 years.

 

I made up some kits that just used the centering ring as shown below. No other crank hub adapter.

 

How does that ring work? Does it pilot the converter hub directly into the bore of the crank? Is that bore usually pretty concentric with the crank centerline?

 

Back in the '80's I designed a couple of variations of a one-piece similar to what you describe, but never made any for sale. I had trouble keeping the flexplate portion 'flat'. Fast forward to 2012 and I used the same basic design for a one-off TF adapter for a Mopar straight 8.

Like Tom, I also have some 'centering pieces', but I use them as weld-in-place parts and refinish the id/od when the crank is ground. I don't find the id of the flanges to be very consistent...remember that the front pump does not want the converter to be out more than 0.007" TIR.

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The ring has two steps. One picks up the center hole of the flex plate while the other centers in the crank.
The ones I sold were tigged to the flex plate. There really wasn't much interest in this type of kit.

 

I'm not sure why?
I have one of yours that uses a 426 flex plate and I think it's the best adapter I've seen. I want another one.

 

would a 354 starter work on a 53 331?

 

Tooth count is the same, but...'54 is 6V & '56 is 12V.

 

I'm planning pretty much the same setup the question I have is do I need a small block bell housing for the A833 or big block.

 

The adaptors are for SB.

 

Looking for some advise. We are using a 1957 354 Truck engine to build a rat rod. Looking for a cheap trans that would be easy and cheap to make work behind the truck bell housing. Anyone put a Dodge/Plymouth small block manual trans behind one of these engines? Any advise?

 

1st bit of advise is...the term Rat Rod is officially frowned upon by the Admin & should not be used on this forum.

 

Yeah, not real fond of the ratrod deal...kinda like the saggy pants fad....

Not too sure what transmissions are cheap...the ones that might be inexpensive will require an adapter.
But, to your question, some of the truck bells are 'close' to working with an A-833, which are not getting 'cheaper'. You will need to compare the depth of your particular bell to the length of the input shaft and the position of the splines to the disc. Get out your tape measure.
If you have the right bell then some basic machine work will do the swap.

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Sorry, not really one of them "rat" things, but we are putting a 354 truck Hemi into a 1960 Falcon as a follow-up to our 1970 Cadillac 472 into a 1962 Chevy II. We are going for that early drag car look, straight axle, engine set back, etc. Our 354 Truck motor has a manual trans bellhousing, flywheel, & clutch. Would sure like to hear more about putting a A883 behind it!

 

OK, so now we have a A833 trans, manual 4-speed where 4th gear is overdrive and 3rd gear is 1:1. The case is aluminum but the tail-housing is cast iron. Looking for the cheapest and easiest way to bolt this trans to the back of our 354 Hemi. We want to do it so it looks as "OE" as possible (no explosion-proof bell-housing, etc.).

Two ways I have read about:
#1 is to use a 1959-1960 truck bell-housing which came behind a 318 Poly motor or the flathead I6 with a 3-speed manual (along with the flywheel, pressure plate and starter).
#2 is to use an adapter that allows a LA engine bell-housing to bolt up to the Hemi and a crank flange adapter that allows the LA engine flywheel to bolt up. (So you can use all the LA engine bits that were used to put the A833 behind an LA engine.)

Any other alternatives that use mostly OE parts? Where can I get the parts for #1 or #2? George, 73RR, I think you have made comments on this subject before but I can not find the details to go seeking parts.

Thanks,

Walt

 

Those are the 'usual' options.
Word of caution: The small block bells that readily accept the 3+1 A833 will require a 143 tooth flywheel.
Yes, for the rest of the bells that use the 130 tooth flywheel you can bore out the registration hole to match.

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73RR,

Thanks! I would some more information if possible.
For #1, I would be using all-OE parts, but the bell-housing is likely cast iron and the flywheel is likely heavy as well (truck parts). I think I have found a source on the PowerWagon web site, but awaiting some pics to confirm.
For #2 I would need an adaptor for the LA bell-housing and for the LA flywheel if I find the proper bell-housing for a A833 and the correct 143-tooth flywheel. If I can not find the correct bell-housing I will need to machine the mating hole to match the A833 but won't I also need an adapter to bolt up the A833 to the bell?

Walt

 

I've only done A/Ts on my hemis. With them an 8 hole 426 flexplate is used vs the 6 hole LA, I'd think a 426 flywheel would be needed.

 

Read through this and check back if you still have questions:
http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=69

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I'm hoping someone can help here. I'm using a Wilcap adaptor that came with a B&M flexplate. Problem is I need a flexplate for an 11" bolt circle converter my 518 came with. I contacted Wilcap and they no longer make the flexplate I need, they also told me I could run their new flat flexplate but I would also have to buy another (shorter) crank adapter for more than a new converter would cost. Does anyone here know of or sell a flexplate (426 style) the will bolt to an 11" converter? Thank you!


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B&M used to make the #10231 flexplate with both bolt circles, start scrounging...
Another option is to weld new mounting lugs to your converter (or enlarge the existing lugs) to match the smaller bolt circle of the flexplate.

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Can you redrill your existing flexplate? Billk

 

My flexplate is the 10231 and it is 10" only. It is not physically large enough to be redrilled, that's why I'm looking for something better before I purchase another converter.

Any help is appreciated.

Adam


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Why Couldn't you have machined the crank adapter down?

 

Just to update this, Hot Heads still makes a flexplate drilled for both 10" and 11" converter bolts. At this time the cost is $85.00 + shipping.

Adam


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Gentlemen, as I am sure that we all know, Briggs Cunningham broke up a Jaguar podium sweep at Le Mans in 1953 with his 331-powered C5R, extended bellhousing and all. The few facts I can find regarding the C5R state that it had a 5-speed gearbox. Can anyone enlighten me with the specifics regarding this transmission and how it was mounted to an EB 331 including details about the release bearing setup? And the winning Powerball numbers for the next drawing. Thank you.

 

I don't have any of the details but recall that the extended bell has a universal SAE-3 bolt pattern so anything designed around that could be bolted up. Obviously, input shaft length and the clutch release issue remain unknowns.

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Thank you for that. It seems somewhat ironic to me that despite Cunningham's amazing success with the 331 EB there are so few facts available about his cars. I've read from museum sites that own his Le Mans cars that the C5R used a Siata truck trans. Siata truck? Even if such a vehicle ever existed, it seems extremely unlikely that they would have used a 5-speed in those days on anything under a 5-ton rated truck. I suppose one could try to get permission to actually get under the car and take photos, but that is beyond my limits for now. I just want to hook up a modern (or old) 5- or 6-speed to my baby without whacking the bell or spending another million bucks to do it. I also do not get why a custom clutch fork cannot be used with almost any off-the-shelf slave cylinder by welding in a ball mount and using the factory vent hole on the right side of the bottom bell half instead of going to a hydraulic release bearing.

 

The usual problem with many modern 5/6spds units is that they are one-piece design. The two notable exceptions are the AX15 and the T5. The AX15 is a much stouter unit but requires a very-special adapter and the T5 requires a more-common, less costly, adapter.
As for redesigning a clutch fork operating system, the hyd-brg is simply easier.
You might take a look at the AX15 hyd slave unit for a retro-fit if the hyd bearing is such a turnoff.

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