I have a Ford Flathead motor that I would like to rebuild. any suggestions on where to buy parts like Rod bearing, main bearing, pistons, rings cam bearing and gasket set ? thanks
Hello Capitan Insano, May I ask a silly question, Why are rod bearing for these Ford flathead V-8 motors so expensive?
It all depends on what you are trying to built. Are you doing a stock rebuild or are you looking to built a hotrod motor. Reds headers has great parts and great prices. Van pelt has good parts. Do you want the best of the best??? Ross pistons, merc crank and ect ect. Or stock motor you could even use Mac's auto parts in NY. I would only use the brand, best gaskets from reds or anyone who sells best gaskets they are made in USA. King makes a very good bearing and they are made in Israel. But high quality.
If they are the full floating bearings they are around 4-500 hundred. If you go with a later merc or even ford crank the bearings are only about 1-150. You could find a merc 4" crank and bearings for what full floating bearings cost. Then you will have a stroker motor.
Hello paintslinger805, Just wanting to build a stock Ford Flathead V-8. Right now the motor has 0.30 over pistons and a 0.10 0.10 crankshaft
Where are you in Texas and what year engine do you have?If you update your profile more folks can help.
Hello Texas Webb, i'm down here in Corpus Christi, Texas. I still don't know what year the engine is, I'm guessing 49 to 53 maybe ?
I just finished a 258" 8BA. I got a lot of stuff from Speedway motors (bearings and oil pump, pistons, etc.). My machinist said they were top notch parts (I think they were "King Bearings"). The prices are better than most and ordering and shipping is easy. People complain a lot about Speedway, but one thing I have found is that they seem to post all the reviews received of their products. You'll see a bunch of negative stuff here and there. That being said, the reviews of their bearings (8BA at least) were stellar.
I used King Bearings as well. I think they're made in Israel? I bought most of the stuff I needed from Red's Headers and H&H. Also purchased a crank and rods from So-Cal Speed. Built a 258" also. Snappy little mother
Or, you could try JobLot Automotive...joblotauto.com in addition to the parts from Speedway. Small biz, but great with NOS and other stock flattie stuff. Oh, and if your flattie coolant spouts are towards the front of the block, you probably have a 8BA. Flatties are awesome!!
Speedway, VanPelt, C&G Early Ford, etc etc are all good places as mentioned. Unless you're buying top of the line Ross Pistons, Isky cam, blah blah blah, you're likely buying parts all made by the same factory in China, just with a different box. I know everyone here rags on China, but it's a fact of life. Shop around, and check the company's ratings on returns. Paying a little more knowing they have a great return policy is worth it. I just finished a "budget" build with pretty much your exact specs. I had my local engine shop do all the machine work. It's going in my 34 Open Cab Pickup. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I think you're right! Now, why would they be making quality flathead bearings in Israel? Here's a hint : There's probably a "French Connection".
I bought all the internal parts for my 8ba rebuild from Red's mainly because he was 45 minutes down the 10 freeway from me but the other suppliers mentioned are a good source as well. That said the parts were USA made except for some of the bearings from Israel. Total cost for everything (less valve assembly) was around 800 bucks. Engine runs like a top. No issues.
I used these. Literally "Best gaskets". Any leaks you have, though, likely will stem from the studs that go into the water passages. There's a number of threads (no pun intended) on the subject here and on the Ford Barn, but pay close attention to the recommendations. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Shop/Best-Gasket-Flathead-Gaskets/20.html
Flatheads are an expensive way to go slow. The SBC is the traditional solution to the flathead problems
That was for the parts from Red's only. Gotta add the valve assembly, new french rods from SoCal, machine work, new radiator and the cost ended up closer to 4K. Sorry for the confusion.
I hate saving money. Every time I do the cheap ass parts come back to bite me in the ass. I learned over many builds and many parts on the wall of shame, buy good parts! They save money,time and frustration. I am speaking from personal experience and with my right hand on my wallet when I say, call Mike at H and H flatheads.
JobLot Automotive WAS great but they are now out of business. Their number one counter man went out on his own after they closed. His name is James and he is doing business as Gotham Auto Parts (718) 878-3699. Great guy. Use him. Andy
Those new rods from SoCal cost about the same as the machine shop said it would be to redo the rods I had.
There are only a few people making quality bearings, Clevite is way over $200 now. I use King bearings in most my builds
My 2 cents worth: It sounds like you have most of the major parts. Take the crankshaft, rods and block to the machine shop and have the block checked for cracked valve ports and bolt holes, bored, valve seats ground, the block and heads checked for flatness, the crank ground and the rods reconditioned. Take a set of new wrist pin bushings to the machinist, too, so he can ream them to fit the pins. If you are going for a stock rebuild, shop around for pistons and rings. They are always being listed on ebay, etc. at great savings. Buy stainless steel valves and new valve guides and seals. Having the machinist install stainless valve seats is a good idea, too, though so far I've not had any issues using unleaded gas with stock seats. Ford used some pretty hard seats in these. Use Best gaskets and bearings from Israel. Don't buy pistons, rings or bearings until your parts are back from the machine shop. The rest is less expensive like timing gears, oil pump, etc. Rebuilding these things is not cheap.
Two of my friends had flatties built at a local shop that specializes in early Ford engines. Both were over $8000.00! They run very nice but HOLY CRAP! $8000.00! I hope mine runs well after my garage rebuild. $450.00 so far but still need points, wires, coil, and carb rebuild