Hello, purchased a project from someone who didn't have the time to see it through completion. They had already built a frame, but I need to get 3 more inches out of the rear Z for a nice ride height and spring travel. He has nice lap welds at the joints. So to get the 3 extra inches needed do I: 1. Splice 3 inches in the middle of the existing risers and reinforce the middle with additional lap welds? 2. Completely cut out the risers and re-add at the proper length? What would I do with the pre-existing reinforcements? 3. Since the rise needs to occur further back, cut off the rear of the frame and add a second tier of riser over for the last 1.5' of the frame? 4. Other Thanks for the help! Rear of frame by Iron Dash posted Oct 24, 2016 at 1:01 PM
Sell that frame to someone else and start over. No cutting and welding to change it will look as clean as just doing it the way you wanted it from the start.
All I can add is that if you need another 3'' of kick-up in addition to the huge amount already there, you're on the wrong website.
What type of rear suspension were you planing to use? With the frame laying on the ground it looks like the rear end will still slide under the kickup. You can't have a negative ride height. Put a 4 bar and air bags on it and don't show us. You can still lay frame & jack it up for 4" of road clearance.
I'm curious, how did you determine you needed three more inches? What are you putting on it? I would not splice to lengthen it or to raise the back up... buy the time you're done you could have started with the correct length rails and do it right. Sell it, trade it or scrap it and start over. BTW, I think we could all use a few more inches...
Frames work best when they aren't carving out asphalt as they pass over it, with the right suspension that kick up will work fine though I feel it's already well in excess. You set your ride height with weight on the springs too, so you'd likely be in the ball park as is. Need more details from you for what you're shooting for.
If the rest of the frame looks like the back end of it in the picture........ your not starting with much. So if It's not to your liking start over. Don't cut and stitch.
Thanks to all that replied. I am planning a build similar to tikiwagon13's profile picture (classy, fully finished). I was planning to put airbags on lay the frame down on occassion when I want that low look. However, was planning a 3.5" ride height routinely with the ability to raise it up for occasional obstacles. So I retook measurements to ensure accuracy. The rear of the frame sits 1.5" off the ground when resting on top of the rear end. Assuming a 3.5" ride height, I would be leaving 2" for axle travel before hitting the frame, less with a bumpstop. Whether going with a sprung or air setup, I do not feel that this is adequate. Am I mistaken? I read through other parts of the board here that 5-6" of travel is optimal, hence my need to get at least three more inches. The rear wheels are 20" in diameter without tires to put it into perspective. Am I mistaken, is there a way to make this setup work, either with air or springs? Thanks for the wealth of knowledge.
keep in mind when 5-6 inches of travel is mentioned that's full compression to full drop 5-6 inches, not 5 up and 5 down
When the rear wheels are 20" in diameter (without tires) which perspective does this put it in? Methinks a deeply channeled Model A sedan is afoot...
I agree. 5" or 6" of travel is way off. My A has 1.5" of travel at the rear. It rides great. And I drive it a lot.
With 3.5" ride height why would you want any down travel let alone 5" . Banging off of the bump stops isn't any fun, bouncing off the pavement can get you in a heap of trouble real quick.
Thanks all for the feedback. Have a busy couple of weeks ahead but hope to make some progress soon. Yes, chopped and channeled A on the way.
Thanks Tiki, nice ride btw! Do you know your overall wheel diameter? Mine are definitely a lot bigger than yours and I want to get an idea of your overall fitment proportions. Thanks