Well, I was going to wait for a tech week, but I figured to just go ahead and tell you guys what I am up to. I sent the body out for blasting, so while it is off, I am working on the floor. My gas tank ended up being pretty roached, so I am going to hollow it out and use a gas tank in the trunk. I made some cardboard cutouts and tried different ideas. I was stuck in a choice between the speedway tank and going custom. The speedway tank is plastic and has a vented cap system as well as a plastic bung. It would have had to have been placed behind the rear crossmember. I chose to go custom. I first made sure my idea would work by using some cardboard replicas. I had two options. Either would have worked, so I went and bought two off of craigslist. Long story short, I'm a huge dummy. I bought two for 100. They do not match, although they are both "from the factory". I shined up the cool one, and then noticed the other didn't match when I was going to shine it up. Called the guy on Craigslist and went to visit him the next day. He had one more but it matched the less cool one. He was going to sell it to me for 20 bucks, but I am an idiot and regretted telling him no on my 40 minute truck ride back to my house. Ugh. THEY ARE STAINLESS!!! Don't listen to anyone else! Some people thing they are aluminum because they are not magnetic. Instead, they are truly just non magnetic stainless. Anyways, they were painted when I got them, and was able to uncover one layer of paint on the poor looking one at a time. I still have to buff it out however. See those cubic inches? Ends up being 9 gallons each (max). I chose to go this direction because it is the most safe. The tanks can still easily be filled at the same time. Now I have to fabricate the floor so that I can find out where all of the bungs and cap goes! I made one piece with a flange for the front of the z. I then slip rolled some stock larger than the tank diameter. It was trimmed and welded to the front piece. I then made another piece to go over the rear cross section. I MESSED UP! I should have made that piece over the cross continue on through the back. It would have been easy to make the tail end of the z in bends. Instead, I just welded it later. Sucks, but had to happen. Welded and trimmed. I welded it mainly from the bottom. So, now I made the hump to go over the rear cross. The stock setup is very stupid! The stock setup requires the body to be taken off in order to replace the rear u bolts! Instead, I just wanted to have a piece the could be taken off in the trunk if I ever had the need. In order to do so, I made two sides and then a top piece. The two sides are curved with an inch flange. I then took roughly 5/16 more material after the inch flange and folded it under and hammered the seam flat so that it looked square and flat. I finished it off with two sides and softened the corners. Again, weld from the bottom so that there is less to grind! Not pictured is the fact that I went around the perimeter every two inches and drilled a 1/4 inch hole. I am using 1/4 20 round head flat head screws with bolts on the bottom to look super period! Will also be able to control which direction the flathead screws face as well. Next is straps. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Straps. I wanted to make my own straps because I cannot weld stainless and I need something that resembles a hose clamp. I also need something that is huge, and there is seemingly no market for the like. I had 16 gauge hanging around and cut strips 1 1/4 inches wide. I needed eight for the project. I then needed to make a mounting face for the tightening bolt to feed through. I went with some pipe I had laying around due to the fact that the bolt will not be square to the end of the strap if that makes sense. So, I made some black squares. Then I used my angle grinder. And finally a triangle file to finish. The hole is 3/8 wide for those wondering. I plan on using 3/8 full thread stainless bolts. I then cut them up into singles and welded them to the straps! But now that the tightening face is made, there has to be some reinforcements made as gussets. They also should maybe look good I guess. I needed to incorporate the arc, so that is the design I made. This upcoming part sucked more than I expected. You need 16 of these suckers! So just fight through the tedious project... I just kept them stacked and used my angle grinder. I then welded everything up! Here is my weld inside of the gusset. I am getting better (albeit out of focus). I have already made the lower mounts, but am in the middle of figuring out the rearmost mounts. As a sidebar, the round pipe will capture the heads of the bolt and nut. As a result, one side will be hard to turn. In order to combat this, I made some rectangular washers with a rounded backside to go under the head of the bolt side. Will post pics later. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wow, that trunk project is ambitious! For future reference, those O2 tanks go for big bucks sometimes on ePay, usually around $100 or so each, so snag them when you can!
I started in on my 20 dollar grille shell today. I already had patched the top, so I just had to work on the bottom. Luckily there was just enough left at the bottom to have a skeleton to work off of- I knew the contour as well as the size. I started off by forming some handy j channel. So how do I get a curve in the j channel? I must have some high tech equipment which shrinks and stretches edges. Or, maybe I just use a 5 gallon pail and my trusty 3 lb hammer. I then made a series of cuts with my angle grinder to get a contour. I use the angle grinder just to make flat cuts. It takes away just enough material. Welded the seams, reworked it, and welded it into the shell. Done! I also rebuilt my steering. I have to now dent my column in places so that it will fit around the engine. Wish me luck... I also am debating on making a custom air filter/intake. I saw this one from so cal a long time ago and have been drooling over it. Just trying to figure out if it would be worth it to make.
Nice save on the grille shell, bunky! By the time you're done, it'll be 100%. What's the deal with the 4 bbl. adapter/ intake gizmo? You going to make air filters like that?? People want to know!! Keep up the good work- 2017 ROAD TRIP!!!
Well, I now realize the confusion- I was talking about the air intake on top of the carburetor. I have no reason for a quad to dual two barrel intake. At the end of the day, I could weld something like that intake/ filter up, but there would be welds on the inside, it wouldn't be smooth inside, and it would cost a lot more money than the classic frog intake. As a result, I think I'll stick with a big dome and frog intake, and keep the filter/ intake idea in the back of my mind for later.
Finishing up on the chassis, but am having a problem! Mounted the steering column... Cut up a brand new geardrive header Reamed my pedals; installed headers... (had to shorten brake pedal actuating arm one inch. Works perfect now!) Bent oil breather... But I cannot get the clutch to work!!! I have tried adjusting it for the past three hours with no avail. It doesn't help that I have to relocate the hole though the cross shaft for my modified arm. Here is the arm all the way adjusted tight, at rest. And here is the pedal all the way depressed. It is a heavy clutch for sure! But no roll when it is depressed still. In order to get the pedal to line up with the actuating arm, I need my floor jack (I need to lift the arm on the cross shaft about 1/2 inch past where it starts to grab). What gives!?
Ben, did the clutch ever work? Did you have it doing its thing in a prior mockup? If so, what is different from when it worked in mockup? Go from there.
Looking good Ben! Any chance you have a closeup pic of the bracketry just under the lower cowl panels? Mine are rusted to shit. I saw you had a pic earlier on but it's not a closeup. PM me if you have one. Keep up the nice work!
The cowl is currently at the blaster; will get it back soon and take a pic for ya. As for the clutch, I never had it "working". I mean, this is the first time that I have the flywheel and everything in it. Before, I just had the shaft arm and my pedal arm in place for mock up. What is even worse is that I swear that I can see the motor move a little bit while I push the clutch. (Upwards, maybe a 3/32 tops tho)
I need to see a better pic of the linkage and arms. It's tough to see what's going on there. If you disconnect the pedal, can you articulate the clutch with the arm? Is the pedal moving the fork in the correct direction?
Working on clutch tomorrow- will report back. Anyways, long story short, I acquired a 48 (42-48 I think?) dash. I didn't get anything back for painting yet, so I figured I would work on it using the cut up cowl that I still had as the reference. So, first off, I hogged out the gas tank, and replaced the cap section. Here is the dash as I got it... So, in order to make it work, I needed to make it square. I used tape and painted over the tape so that it left cut lines. Slice, dice, etc. I also had to fill the plastic using quick set jb weld. I then patched the center Sanded it all shut... Here it is with the plastics. And here it is painted. That's all i got.
I did not see any anti chatter rods. They keep the motor from moving frontward when you depress the clutch pedal. I have them in mine .Frank
Not to worry, Ben will figure out the clutch problem (with a little help from his friends). This kid has got what it takes, Bravo Ben!
Funny you say that. New flywheel, new clutch disk, new clutch shaft bushings, new clutch pedal threaded cylinder thing, four weeks, fixed. In all reality, I think it was a faulty clutch disk. The one I took out was a lot different than the one I put in; odd because I took out made in the USA and put in made in China!
Wow, seems like just yesterday that I commented on this post (actually it was)! Like they say, if it was easy, everyone would do it. Glad you're back on the right track, Happy Thanksgiving.
Glad to hear the clutch problem is fixed! Been looking over the pictures a bunch and couldn't see a problem. I always assume I screwed up when I alter everything from stock, which can make me kind of blind to a stock mechanical thing. I don't think the engine lifting 3/32nd when clutching is a big deal, engines shake. just my opinion. Keep it up, good job.
Problems. I had my steering all set up, but it was touching the engine. As a result, I needed 1/4 inch at least cut out from the mounting flange section. I farmed this out, but the parts ended up being cast iron- no bueno. Cracks as soon as it cools. Tardel steered me wrong. So now I have a complete rebuilt model A box minus the mounting section that will not work. Ideas? Preferably inexpensive?
Ben, I think you saw my steering setup. My steering box and shafts are f100 from a 53-54 ford truck. The flange is too big to fit inside the model a frame so I cut some off and drilled one new hole so I could still have three bolts to mount it. Blanchard's salvage in Hollis, NH or Ayottes junkyard in Oxford, Me. Mine came from Ayottes, $30 bucks with arm and drag link. Call me for details or come by
Not yet... school is out though so progress is being made. Only f1 box-- an f100 wouldn't work. Here is a teaser to hold you until the weekend.
The Jalopy Journal
