Technical ***September 2016 Banger Meet - Already?***

@winduptoy I look forward to meeting you. See you in a few days.


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September is one of the best months here in No cal. for Roadster driving. Just filled her up earlier and plan to drive and enjoy the cooler weather!

 

Happy September.
Here's the new shop I'm building. Only 22 feet at the peak, but plenty scary up there.
It'll be 24 by 36 with a walk up attic when finished, hopefully before the snow flies.

 

good luck !

 

That's gonna be a fine shop! Are you gonna be putting in a car lift? and some cool old time cedar siding?
One more question, is that picture taken from your yard or a neighbors yard? (with the fence and all)
Joe

 

Got mine back together for the HotRod Hillclimb.


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looks good !

 

yea looking great

 

I did a 200 mile drive through Lassen National Park last weekend. Bangers struggle a bit at 8500' above sea level. Perfect weather great drive, but man is my engine tired. This winter that will change

Took my youngest son with me. He's always down to go!!

 

That looks amazing! Is that a modified stock intake???

 

No, it is Charlie Yapp's "equlizer" that never held up to all his claims of how awesome the intake is........
I had to remove the vanes inside of it to get it to flow, all the fuel was only going to the rear cylinders, the front cylinders were white and the rear were black. After I modified it I milled his name off.

 

Maybe a two-post but I hate to give up the floor space. Yes, that's my yard. The fence is for the dog.

 

interesting that none of these consider the enlarged intake valves or valve size in general....

 

Nor the venturi size which can mean as much or MORE that the throttle bore.

 

GREAT to see people just get out and drive their hot rods, good job Tiny! Beautiful country out there. Excellent way to spend time with your son. Thanks for posting pics and reminding us what's it's all about! Again, good job.
Johnny

 

I think I made a mistake on the throttle bore to displacement formula from the late Bob Kehoe, it should read 1 sq inch for each 50 inches of displacement for race engines. As to venturi size, valve size, area of ports, the formulas were based on throttle bore size and,I'm sure, were meant as a starting guide which was what I thought the question was. My current Winfield engine built on an A block (another mistake I suppose) Figures out to a 47 using the second formula. This engine runs rather well at hill climbs and 1/4 mile drags

Maybe one of you will present a formula with the correct venturi sizes and valves as desired or needed.

 

I see you listed your intakes as 1.250. What winfield cam are you using?

I'm going to repeat one of my tirades as to carburetors. Back in the day (yes, I was there) starting in the late 40's I was queer for cars meaning that was all I wanted to discuss or work on. I, and my buddies were just starting to drive, it might be a tractor that we ran a piece of baling wire to over ride the governor on, or it might be an A or T farm truck, the A we would try to see how fast we could double clutch when shifting or we would practice shifting without the clutch. The t's were just fun to drive although most had the reverse worn out by using it for a brake. We sucked up every last thing we could about engines. Now here it goes, I can remember buddies that had a stromberg 97 that had a bad float valve and leaked flooding the engine. These carbs were so plentiful, or seemed to be that you didn't rebuild you just found another at the junk yard for a couple a bucks and we knew where all the engines were and which had what carb on it. Now , No one bought or used an 81!! they just didn't go as fast, meaning top end. They were off a them little Ford engines that they ran in midgets, even then they raced them with 97's. It was really hurtful when some guy's dad would buy them a ford with a 60 in it, how embarrassing to show up with it. But wheels were wheels! He would just wait until he could make a deal on an 85 an swap it out and in a lot of cases never tell ol dad.

 

the cam is not a winfield, it is a 1R "winfield Grind" by Jim Brierley. my recollection on the 81's is that they are run for two carb set ups more than they are on one carbs.

 

Hello banger fellows

I have couple of questions i bet you can answer. And i'm sure the answer could be found in many pages in net, but i thought i try easier way to find an answer.

So situation is: I have a running model A motor, trans, rear and front axle with brakes and steering gear, as left over from my 28 tudor / red ram hemi project. Also got a B motor with busted block.

The goal is make a lake modified style hop up. Something a guy could have made in 30's. Not 100% period perfect, having more fun doing it and spending less dollars.

Questions:
1. Using model B head and waterpump on A block for little extra compression should be straight bolt on? Any issues with head gasket (different shape chambers)?
2. Using model B cam with model B lifters in A block should be ok without any modifications?
3. Using model B counter weight crank in A block needs either block or crank modified to match diameters. Which one should be modified? Or is it better use A crank?
4. Is there a good website or book which tells how to make new babbit bearings?

Thanks for the answers!

 

if not going to race it , the A stuff works fine . even if you race it once in awhile the A stuff is still good .
head gasket , get the "BEST" head gasket . the A crank can be weighted & balanced , maybe same cost as fixing the B crank ............ good luck

 

Regarding the head, a model A 'police' head (B cast into head, B doesn't mean model B...) will give better compression than a std B head. 5.5:1 as opposed to 4.6:1 for the B (C cast in head, good old Henry)

On the Babbitt. Even if you have all the machines, jigs, boring bars I don't know if it could be learned in any decent time frame from a book.

I know a guy who re bodies D type jags with a bowled out telegraph pole, a mallet and an English wheel. Took him a looooong time to get it right.
I'm not sure if this comparison is the best one, but you get my point.






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On the Babbitt. Even if you have all the machines, jigs, boring bars I don't know if it could be learned in any decent time frame from a book.

Babbitt is an art . the mixture is very important . I would have it done !

 

If your not dealing with a heavy car look into a single post. The one I have has the trucks and jack from a pallet jack and rolls around my whole little shop. I just leave it out of the way when not in use.

 

In regards to #3, HMO, modifying a "B" crank to "A" mains is not the way to go. Especially if you are planning to cross drill for rod oiling. Using an "A" crank, rod journals cross drilled is not especially smart either, the drilled hole will remove about 9-10% of the journal cross section. The broken ones I have seen the break follows the oiling hole (if not an improperly radius journal grind). So, what to do, since you have the "B" crank and rods, have the mains ground to 1.850 and the block line bored for Saturn bearing inserts. This mod does not need the main bolts altered in the block and if you use later model caps there will be plenty of material. this mod is in the files listed on the opening page of the thread. You can use the "B" rods on the motor, pay attention to the pan rail, it may need a little massaging.

Good Luck, J

 

Thanks Bluto, I'll check them out.

 

jimski , info on the race car please . looks like fun

 

Steve the info is on the OFC

This is a 1/2 banger

 

Got my program book picture today and wanted to share it. I sent all 3 photos so the artist could pick the one that fit the best. (I like it!)
Joe

 

Hey guys!! Just wonder about running stock shocks on the A!! It's make a bit different on the suspension?
My front axle is a 32 heavy with 32-34 perches so can install the shocks!! My question is: If really necessary run the shocks? Thanks

Ain't a Rat lover!

 

without shocks you may get a bouncy affect . they make a kit for modern shocks