Hot Rods TE-440 Slingshot Dragster Plans?

NHRA finally banned our original Te-440 until we add a 5 point roll cage. We have a fuel injected flathead and runs 11:50's. This is at our local track, so not sure if other techs at other tracks will be better.

This happened while we were at the Antique Nationals and there were some dragsters running with less cage then we have (and going the same speed or faster) Maybe the tech had it out for us since he said the frame could "crumble under its own weight" (this isn't a barn find dragster, but has been competitively racing since 1958, and is in no way in shoddy shape)

We added a "cage topper" about 8 years ago when NHRA starting giving us issues. We didn't want to change the integrity of the frame so the extra frames we added could be removed someday and the originality is not lost. 8 years ago NHRA was ok with this, but not now, since any front engine dragster requires a 5 point cage (even if your going 20 seconds down the 1/4).

The next picture shows the added the upper bar on the frame rails. Back in 58' they took them off to save weight, but after 50 years of hard racing the frame started to get a curvature at the engine mounts, so maybe Scotty Fenn was on to something when designing these rails haha.

 

If you notice the bends on the cage, those were done on a muffler type bender

 

I have a JD2 bender as well. For guys working at this once every 10 years, I can't afford a Hossfield (sp?). I bought a set of Hossfield dies when I built the fly and built a contraption using a bottle jack. It self destructed after I finished the cage. I still have the dies somewhere.

PS I would love someone in the trade to do a tech piece on how to figure bends etc. It would save a lot of metal.

 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/bendin_tube/index.html

Off topic site, but this is a decent start. I read this and used it as a guide for an off topic project and didn't make much scrap at all.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

The Hossfeld works from the middle of the cage to the start of the bend, by using this style of protractor it will provide the start and finnish of the bend. So if you were to hold up the protractor in the corner and adjust it for angle, you would measure from the middle of the interior roof to the start of the bend. Mark the center of the roll cage tube and mark that dimention on both sides of the center line and those become start points. match the angle of the protractor and then go to the next bend down. Having 2 of these protractors lets you figure the next bend and the start points by measuring the length of the straight between bends

 

Thats slick. we measure between bends on my buddies but that is similar to what I do bending lines.

 

You make that? Very cool.

 

You might get this one past tech with the addition of some helmet bars.

 

Why can I not add an additional two matching-bend bars inside the original loops (total of 4 back loops behind and above the helmet area) and have the center two meet with a cross tube between the original side loops, far enough forward to be in front of the helmet? Including the front sections of the original side loops, that would be a 6 point cage, wouldn't it? Helmet bars would likely have to be added, but, run inside and painted black they would be less visible. These additional bars would let the side profile be CE-look all the way.

 

That is a question you need to ask the NHRA guy that certs chassis. Things will not fly through tech just because a few HAMBers thought it would

 

^Alright Nacy negative how about a picture of a vintage style chassis that will pass Nhra

 

Some food for thought.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nhra-says-ok.862146/

 

Not being negative, But building cars for the last 40 years gives me an insite on the specs and how they are to be interpeted. What the OP wants does not match ANY drawings or spec book. There are some inspectors that can look past the spec pictures and qualify the build, and there are some that are sticklers with every "T" crossed and "I" dotted. Opinions from this board mean nothing when it comes down to the track Tech personel and what passes at one track can fail at another. The whole deal about getting them spec'd and tagged is that the local track tech DOES NOT have to interpet the build if it has a sticker on it. But if you get a local track tech inspector who likes things done his way, you can get screwed, thats why you have to find that guy and figure out what will make him happy.
Now based on MY 40yrs of building chassis and being close to 3 NHRA techs, I could build a certed chassis (7.50 tag) but it comes at a cost

 

I got it
Build the certed chassis and hide it in the signature TE 440 chassis

 

Any update? Waiting with baited breath!

 

I think ifn I was you I would get a hold of the NHRA inspector in your area get your plans and pay for his time to talk to you before you start, get a rapport going with him. I paid for our rep to come to my place to inspect ours (a rehash of old chassis to be able to run at NHRA ) was worth every penny. And it still won't pass the 9.99 cert, but its a Flathead and I won't be going faster then 10.0 anyway. see: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flat-fed-build.436556/page-3
p.s. anyway listen to dreracecar,

 

like this....

 

Got your info in the mail today, Rick! Thank you so much for all the trouble you went to. I owe you a great favor. Let me know if you ever want to get down to Texas for a visit. "I know people who know people!" I am sure we could show you a fun time.

BTW, cool dragster you have built there! I would post some pics if you have not already!