Hot Rods TE-440 Slingshot Dragster Plans?

There is a ton of great info on building slingshots, and in many there are references to guys having/offering/selling plan sets. But try as I might, I can't find a set to use for a build. Anyone have a set they can copy for me, sell me, or send me a link to? Other early SWB chassis plans would be welcomed, too! (BTW, yes, I understand that they won't pass tech for sub 10 sec ET's).

 

Have a partial set of plans and some info. E mail me at springgrange@personainternet or call 705 439 2567. I don't think I can e mail them to you, so will require a postal address.

 

Thanks! I emailed my info to the email you provided (I had to add .com to it... I assume that was correct?

 

Has anyone ever said how fast you can go in this chassis and be legal? If you stay over 10.01 are you legal?

Also, what kinda die are we talking about for the rear hoop? Angle of the down tube?

 

Here's a tease for you...Scotty and the boys in his shop welding up chassis's.

 

You can find out the angles of the roll hoop right off of the drawing using a protractor

You will need to get the roll hoop tubes bent on a mandrel bending machine, so the tube does not collapse while bending

DND

 

Can you use the, "pack-the-tubes-with-dry-sand" method or is that not a good idea on a roll bar?

 

Not a good idea if this chassis is to be inspected for actual sanctioned track use.

Proper benders are not hard to find.

 

On that size tubing you got to get it really hot to bend it that far, like the other post says not a good idea

Plus you have to do it a few times to get good at sand bending

DND

 

I have a 1-5/8" mandrel bender, but these look the be bent at a really tight angle. Not sure how they accomplished that.

 

5-1/2" is the smallest radius that my JD2 can do in 1-5/8".

 

I would be interested in knowing how fast you could go with this and be legal.

 

Minimum specs must be adhered to no matter what the speed or ET. An 11 second cannot be made out of emt conduit. 9.99 and a quicker it the threshold for sonic inspection and SFI tag

 

So 10.00 out of .125 wall DOM should be good to go. Some change to head protection area might be required I guess.

 

unless you plan on using thinwall tubing, you can bend .095/.120 wall tubing safely without a mandrel. JD2 benders create horrible bends, they stretch the OD flat around bend and becomes egg shaped

 

You can use .095 but it has to be chromoly which has its own downfalls. I use the .120 wall which is a little heavier, but not as brittle.

 

Maybe, but to this date that has not caught the eye of any of the techs who inspected my work.

 

My standards

 

The only thing that concerns me is the driver sticking out of the top of the cage. Especially the taller drivers. That's why I lean towards the Dragmaster styled chassis.

 

Or a single hoop like a Fuller car, much better deal

 

You mean PROPER standards. You expect better, that is why I like your posts. Spec is a lot like building codes. To brag that you built it to code or Spec means you built it to the Passing "D" grade, the minimal passing grade. I always like to go above and beyond. Houses AND cars

 

I would build it so that I sat low in the car and add kidney bars and a good cross under me.
It would be nice if one could put some more head protection to keep it from moving to much. But that wold take from the look.
I think if you paint all the extra bars a flat color it may help hide them.

 

How about keeping the seat bottom in the same place and building the bars a bit higher

Remember if you have 2" of clearance from your helmet top to the top of the bars, it can all go away with your body weight - belt stretch etc and that needs to be worked in for a safe race car

The ' Arse ' you save just might be your own !!

DND

 

Have you seen my work, prior to this implied insult?

 

I don't think you will ever get an original design Chassis Research car to pass tech at a licensed track. I had an original TE 440 car that I tried to get to pass tech a few years ago. The inspector wanted me to add 9 different bars for it to pass tech. Helmet bars, kidney bars etc..By then it's no longer a TE 440,so I passed on putting it on the track. I would talk to a local track tech inspector before I went any farther. If you are building a cackle car or show car you are good to go. Just my thoughts

 

That was not aimed at you at all.

 

I found this on the net, and will bet that it is a HAMBer's car. It is similar to what I was thinking, maybe letting the additional back bars roll around to the front a little more, adding some black painted inconspicuous as possible helmet bars, and all the necessary kidney, etc down below the body line. Still just trying to get it safe and solid down to 10.0. Wont even get near that as I am running a warmed street flathead.

 

Nobody is questioning your work, the choice of the bender is another issue. This is a HY-Bend using Hossfeld dies. I can bend 1.5 x .058 MOLY without disturbence to the bend without having to use a mandrel

 

Not a hard chassis to build, those are 6" rad bends. If you build the chassis yourself, it would not cost much, but to have me or some other shop build it for you would be expensive because only one would be built. 1 3/4 x .120 ERW 6"rad. 235deg bend


A customer re-poping Ivos single engine dragster, I did the rear cage bends for Kent Fuller who did the chassis