OK.... first off, I bought this as a display piece. It is pretty crusty. I would like to disassemble it to see what usable parts I can salvage (and frankly just to see what the inside looks like). I want to soak it in rust dissolve but wasn't sure it that would hurt the metal on the throat or bowl.
There's always molasses. Mix 50/50 or the recommended 10%. I've found it won't hurt non ferrous metals mixed to 25%. Drop it in and forget it for a couple weeks, you might be amazed how well it works. About $5 a gallon at most feed stores.
In a world where guys are cleaning these carbs with soft brushes and dish detergent, Evaporust sounds like a quick way to wash any value right out of your trophy. The original castings are zinc with a bronze coat which is related to that value. Those bright copper specimens are sad attempts to restore the bronzed look. I know that caustics like lie and strong ammonia make the carbs fizz away like an Alka Seltzer. The chemical opposite, acid, however mild may find something else to dissolve. Good thing you asked! Patina is so trendy that even a rough example should be preserved. Good Luck and be cautious: Fred A
Jim, I'm with Highlander, I have been using molasses on most of my parts and have been very happy with the results. theHIGHLANDER is talking about feed grade molasses. I have used 4to1 and 7to1 mixes. I am soaking my Holley parts in it as we type.
The carbs are made of pot metal, I think Winfield used better formulation than other pot metal parts of the era. As Fred A mentioned they are bronze plated and the ones that are copper plated as restored are a poor excuse. I am restoring some SR-BB's and using a mild detergent with a tooth brush to clean them. You might be better off tacking the parts you want and doing a light blast with ice to clean them up.
my main concern is that all the screws and linkage are pretty rusty. I can cut off some of the nuts. This baby will never be a show piece.Just trying to "do no harm". been meaning to try the molasses route. Need to drive out to the country to get it.
The last one I cleaned I used a 50/50 mix of Pine Sol and water. Cooked it in an old crock pot for a couple of hours on low. Then used a toothbrush to scrub it down. Didn't hurt anything. Even made the garage smell clean.
trying to figure out which will annoy wife least. The smell of the molasses mixture? Or putting pine sol in her crock pot. found a feed store, going to try the molasses. I love the rustdissolve, but the cost is hard to take. Too lazy to mailorder the cheaper stuff.
I did have mixed results with cleaning a bucket of stripped Holley 94s. Seemed that there are no shortcuts with carbs and miracle products. The carbs were what I thought to be pre-cleaned to remove the organic stains that would impede cleaning. The carbs are factory chromate-zinc which generally remained untouched where the carbs were not so clean and gone in the areas cleaned more effectively. Can't tell in retrospect if there was significant chromate on the cleaned surface. This is not a scientific observation, but the permanent blotchy finish was not what I wanted to see. The Winfield carbs, being 25/50 times the value of a Holley 94, condition/condition would lead me to a less aggressive method for a Winfield. On the other hand is my '40 hood that I left out in the rain after stripping. I got called out of town and when I got back, the hood was badly rusted. Needing a kiddie pool to get that mess repaired. Hope I can effectively rinse the hidden places Good Luck: Fred A
Did you use Evaporust for this or something else? I'm not trying to start an argument here, just trying to add to my knowledge base. I have never had a problem with Evaporust; I'd sure want to know the details if someone else has. I only use Evaporust on ferrous materials; that's what it's for. The only time I would even think about dumping an entire carb in it is if I thought the steel screws were so rusted as to be unremoveable.
I use Evaporust for everything. I have never used it on a carb. I have never tried the molasses mix, yet. When I first brought my '27 Coupe home, it was full of rust. Most of the pieces that I bought for it were original and oxidized a lot. I would get as much off by hand and power tools and then soak it in Evaporust and then do more by hand and power tools. Evaporust isn't a cure all but really does help a lot. I have no idea what it would do to your Winfield.
I called the evapo rust number and talked with a real human (believe it or not) and talks about concerns I had with a painted gas tank , he gave me quite a bit of info and was a pretty nice guy I believe it was the owner of the company even... I would call first before using the product .. But my experiance it didn't hurt the paint , the solder or some of the soft metals in the tank
At this point I am going to start with penetrating oil directly on the nuts I need out. trying to not damage the linkage and other steel parts so they can be cleaned up. If that doesnt work I may try a cookie sheet or something where I can put just enough to hit the nut but not the carb
I would be cautious about the acid in molasses damaging the pot metal body. I could be wrong ( many times before) but I believe molasses can eat non ferrous metal.
I will report back in a few days. Trying to just soak the steel, but there will be enough of the carb body in the rust dissolve to see if it affects it.
This is overnight. You can definitely see where the rust dissolve line is. Not sure if it is adding to damage or just cleaning out the dirt and grease from the damage already there. If I get it apart, I will put the busted part in longer to see what happens.
This is after 24 hours. I do not think there is corrosion from the dissolve. If I had a carb with a decent finish I wouldn't do it.
Pictures look about normal for most zinc alloy carbs of this period: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Zinccastings.htm Jon.
Right, I wasn't going to have a pristine original finish no matter how I cleaned it up. I feel the answer to my original question is that it may harm finish, but does not appear to hurt the carb itself.
I got the body apart, looking for suggestions on getting the screws out of the bowl. Not sure a penetrating oil will get in there. All I can come up with is heat. Any tricks to getting them out?
On Strombergs, I start crusty carbs with Evaporust, a good long soak like weeks. I rotate them beneath the fluid in case of air pockets. ER has some limited ability to seep into close spaces...it eats off the rust on exposed fasteners, gets at the hidden part a little bit. That removes the bigger lumps that would serve as cutting tools if backed off through the castings. Strombergs are VERY soft cast metal and I have not seen any trace of casting damage even after a month in the soup. The only removal of anything other than rust I have ever seen is plating that has rust underneath it and paints that are apparently water based. I know that anything else I have ever tried would turn any pot metal carb into a tablespoon of brass parts in a month... And on an iron Model B Zenith, wow! Beauty emerges!
I am after these guys.... totally encased in the carb body. The linkage ones with nuts on them I got by cutting the nuts in half with a dremel.
I'd carefully grind off the heads then submerge carb in the hope that better access would allow the evapo to seep down more.
Thats a thought, but I'd be afraid of grinding up the carb. What about drilling them and using an easy out? Although I am wondering if I slip it in the freezer when the wife isn't looking then apply heat. the pot metal should heat up faster than the screws.....
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