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Projects the '27 Roadster saga

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Paul, Jul 20, 2010.

  1. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    thanks BT, my pleasure

    rear shocks went in today,
    I had this old tube shock kit for 1939 Ford front kicking around for a while
    very compact, figured they should fit the bill fine.
    chopped the tower brackets and welded the top mount to the frame,
    then cut some lower brackets from what was left of the tower,
    bolted the shocks in and tacked the lower brackets in place,
    took the shocks back out and welded the brackets to the wishbones,
    let it cool to the touch and bolted the shocks back in.

    20160707_153411.jpg
    20160708_110139.jpg
    20160708_112901.jpg
     
  2. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    outside shots..

    20160708_123416.jpg 20160708_123406.jpg
     
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,522

    alchemy
    Member

    I like the shocks hidden in front of the axle.
     
    Paul likes this.
  4. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    More often than not,
    If the end result is to imply simplicity,
    the more thought in planning
    and effort in execution is required..

    Spent half the day on something so simple
    it should have taken five minutes..

    Maybe that's what I like about it
     
    brEad and Tim_with_a_T like this.
  5. Great work Paul. A late friend said "simple is hard".
     
  6. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    That's what I'm talking about,
    Your friend was able to refine my three paragraphs
    Into three simple words.
     
    brEad and Atwater Mike like this.
  7. justabeater37
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,702

    justabeater37
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great idea on the rear shocks. I have those same brackets kicking around here someplace. I am going to copy this great idea. I will give you credit for the idea though. It saves me a great deal of head scratching on mine. Now I just need to figure out the cantilevered front shock mounts.
     
    Paul likes this.
  8. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    made a few body to frame mounts today,
    eight points of connection,
    should be enough.

    here's a few pictures

    this is a typical fab scenario

    20160709_115211.jpg
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    20160709_120128.jpg
    20160709_120410.jpg
    20160709_120715.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2016
  9. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    same same..

    20160709_120921.jpg
    20160709_121346.jpg
    20160709_122356.jpg
    20160709_131221.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2016
  10. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    front and rear

    20160709_163013.jpg
    20160709_162936.jpg
     
    dubie likes this.
  11. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

  12. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    Great build, lots of good ideas
     
    oliver westlund and Paul like this.
  13. Make sure you leave room with the mounts so you can shim the body, it helps the doors to open and close. :) JW
     
    Paul likes this.
  14. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    I only allowed for one eighth shim at the firewall mount but three eighths on the rest.
    I fit and welded all with solid steel shims, replacing the steel shims with rubber after cool.
    Of course these too are temporary as the whole car is about to be completely blown apart for final finish.
    I hope to have the chassis done and finished soon, the body may have to live in a semi finished state for a while as I'm getting anxious to have a car on the road this summer.
     
    brEad and 26 T Ford RPU like this.
  15. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    modified the trunk floor I had made earlier,
    when I made it the plan was to run the exhaust outside and shocks behind the axle.
    now that those plans have changed some of the work in place needed slight alteration.
    the two boxes I had sunk into the trunk floor (battery and what-not) needed to go,
    they conflicted with both exhaust and shocks.
    and some minor changes to the substructure of the floor needed adjustment,
    now it fits fine.
    I may have to eliminate the two trap doors,
    they serve no purpose now, unless I make some smaller boxes for storage.
    and I will have to find a new location for the battery,
    maybe under the passenger's feet?
    I'd really rather not take up any trunk space.

    20160710_153241.jpg
    20160710_153957.jpg
     
    brEad likes this.
  16. hasty
    Joined: Jul 5, 2009
    Posts: 1,411

    hasty
    Member

    Good to see this build again - Always enjoy your posts
     
    Paul likes this.
  17. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    Thanks hasty
     
  18. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    final tear down today,
    well hopefully final for the chassis anyway.

    body off, engine out,
    engine hanging with it's Olds buddies one last time
    bare frame,
    and frame clamped to the frame table
    ready to finish up the last bit of welding

    20160711_143456.jpg
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    20160711_150916.jpg
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    20160711_152752.jpg
     
  19. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    Holy cow...you are the Old('s) Man.
     
    Paul likes this.
  20. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,154

    bct
    Member

    Your methodical build style is inspiring. That tub looks solid.
     
    Paul likes this.
  21. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    Thanks guys,

    All major welding done,
    just a few small holes to fill.
    And a few more to drill and tap.

    If the weather holds maybe paint tomorrow..

    20160711_181222.jpg
     
    cactus1 and kidcampbell71 like this.
  22. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    break in the weather today,
    rolled the frame outside and started prep work
    grinders, wire brush and safety gear
    you only have so many lungs, ears, eyes and skin and you might need them later.

    a good mop with phosphoric acid will take car of what little "surface" rust is left.

    paint will have to wait for tomorrow
    then finally maybe start reassembly

    20160713_120310.jpg
    20160713_140844.jpg
     
    brEad likes this.
  23. David Chandler
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,101

    David Chandler
    Member

    I have always enjoyed your builds. I wish I half of your skills.
    Good luck!
     
    Paul likes this.
  24. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    Got some paint on the frame today,
    Coat of red and a coat of semi gloss black.
    Using Zero-Rust brand here.

    20160713_173205.jpg
     
  25. another step closer Paul..............looking good
     
    Paul likes this.
  26. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Go man go. You've got more than a month before the Billetproof Drags. Plenty of time...
     
    Paul likes this.
  27. Looks good. was the red coat a primer coat?
     
    Paul likes this.
  28. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    Zero-Rust is a one step primer/paint, I went two coats because I wanted the extra protection and two colors because I didn't have enough black to do it all in one color.
    Plus now when it gets chipped I get to see red. It looks a lot like the old "red lead" primer.
    Still on the fence about the semi gloss, it may get a coat of gloss black too..
     
    brEad likes this.
  29. haha fair enough! Thank you for the info. Looks good!
     
    Paul likes this.
  30. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

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