Hot Rods Roadster overheated then ran bad. Good news.

Jonathon Hart once foiled some kidnapers by adding a 'non-cooling' agent to their radiator. (made it appear to boil at 110 degrees!) The solution used was 'Palium', add it to water and it'll boil at 110!

When I searched for it, I found 'Palium' was a fictional name, used exclusively by the studio where they filmed 'Hart to Hart'!

 

It is a well known and established fact that water cools better than anti freeze. Nothing new there, the problem is IT CAUSES RUST, especially typical tap water. Anti Freeze/Coolant was developed to help the water from freezing and to act as a rust deterrent.
People scoff at the now available 50/50 mix of anti freeze. But for those that don't "Know it All", there are some benefits. Firs the water used in these mixes is a distilled type water so less concision problems. the other benefit most people don't know about or think about. It is very common to pour a gallon or two of anti freeze in an empty system first, then add water. But what most people don't realize is that anti freeze is heaver than water and the two don't just automatically mix. So you end you with the block fairly concentrated with anti freeze (Which we know doesn't cool as well) and mostly water circulating with smaller mounts of the anti freeze. A mechanic freind of mine told me of a 460 powered motorhome (An engine known to run hot) over heating after an engine rebuild. They couldn't figure it out, They ended up flushing out the New anti freeze (4 gallons) that was added first and water and replacing it with 50/50 mix and no more overhearing. YES, you an make your own mix by buying anti freeze and distilled water and then playing chemist, but I don't know that it will save much, and certainly not time!

 

No, that is not true, antifreeze has a higher boiling point than water, but water has better heat transfer properties than antifreeze. But, water is corrosive, and if you run straight water you're only delaying the inevitable. Soon corrosion in the system will cause additional failures. 50/50 mixture of antifreeze/water is the best solution. And the water should be distilled, RO or de-ionized. Minerals in tap water will plate out on the surfaces of the cooling passages as scale, and scale is a very effective insulator, it will prevent efficient heat transfer and cause heating problems. Purchase pre-mixed coolant and it will be the right ratio using the right water. That's your best option.

 

You beat me to it Don, but you're right on.

 

Still learning.

 

1. Your car captures the iconic look your after, that much is clear. Would it take away from the look too much to re-route the upper hose lower than it is. It appears as if the neck is pointing up 180 deg, is there an option for an exit at 90 deg towards the radiator. Might eliminate the air trap if able.

2. I have used a bleeder screw/valve on Chevy engines at the rear of the intake near the distributer before if the radiator was low. They come in a NPT 1/8 or 1/4 if I remember right.

3. The ribbed hose does not flow the best. It has been used in engine swaps forever but still is more restrictive than non-ribbed.

Remember though, I'm a HAMBer in training. Good bit of experience on dirt tracks, mud drags, and 1/8 and 1/4 cars. Cooling issues are common among all of these segments of the car hobby as well.

Great car. Love your posts

 

For you young guys and old guys that as Von Frank put it the Kookie Kar hasn't "ate your brain" this is why I am reluctant to change the hose placement. Unless everything else fails it will stay there.

Not saying I am not thankful for all your posts. I have learned a lot from them. I am not a racer or even in the car business just another old guy that loves old rods. We all have our build era's. Mine is pre. '60.

Gary

 

Wow Mark pretty kool. I'll look. Another good Idea.

 

If parades are a regular thing for you, try to pack some dry-ice pellets between the radiator and the grill [you'll need to get inventive with something like cardboard to support it all ]
F1 cars use dry-ice to prevent startline overheating, and Downunder it is common for cars in burnout contests because of the lack of air flow

 

Thanks all for the pointers.

Think I've got it fixed. I did drill a small hole in the thermostat, added cleaner and flushed, added "Water Wetter" and installed new 13# cap.

Took a couple of short trips and had to refill the overflow tank both times.

Drove into town about 15 miles each way in 80+F with the fan off. It never ran much over 170F. When I stopped for a few minutes the temp. would go down.

I used to just leave the electric fan on all the time. I'm now going to put on a 185F temp switch and use the dash switch to override the thermal switch if it goes bad..

Thanks again Gary

 

My 324 Olds does not like parades, or stop-n-go traffic. Six blade plastic Pinto crank-driven fan. OK for the occasional stop light duration, but needs at least 20 mph air flow to stay below 220 degrees. Not many stop lights where I live. 8# cap located on expansion tank. Overflow recovery tank under the seat.
BTW, the 324 Olds and the 331 Cad were originally the Charles Kettering brainchildren!