Projects Help 1947 chevy fleetline 3 speed swap

I've been doing research on my 47 fleetline trying to figure out how to make it a open drive and keep the three on the tree. I was told the 60's saginaw would work? Is that the only trans that will work? I have a pile of chevy 3 speeds I think there muncie 55to59 not sure my dad ran them back in the day. Im just looking to get up to speed on the freeway. I still have the 216 in it. Will the cross member work with the newer 3 speed? Also whats a good rear end with 6 bolt pattern. Trying to figure out my options so I can start collecting parts this summer and plan probably. Any help would be great.

 

This is what I'm looking at when I'm talking about the 3 speed chevy transmission. From looking around the interweb I'm finding that they might be 55/64 ish muncie.

 

the tailshaft housing off of the 55-59 trans should work on your 49 trans if my teenage brain in my 68yo body remembers correctly. or the whole trans should fit Tom

 

You can do it with the correct parts. Primarily, you will need either a pickup truck bellhousing from '40s thru '59, or a passenger car bell housing from '55 thru '62, to get the engine (bell) to trans bolt pattern that matches the later trans you want to use. Truck bellhousings from '60 thru '62 use a hydraulic operated clutch arm and you don't want that.

I'd favor a '58 or later passenger trans to get the tailhousing with the rear mount pad and it's shorter tailhousing as well. I can't tell you with any certainty whether or not any significant crossmember mods are need, but a tape measure will tell you that. The early and later bellhousing to trans mating surface will be the same, so you need to measure your existing setup to see how much room you have from the engine to the crossmember.

For a six lug rear end, that is wide enough, I'll have to give that some more thought. There are plenty of six lug rear ends out there, but many/ most are pickups and SUVs and ratios could be higher numerically than you might want, or the width may not be suitable.

Ray

 

here is some of the transmission stuff I have. Also what is the last transmission I think its a Brog Warner not sure.

 

The BW 3 speed is actually kind of rare, and I'd use that before any of the Muncie 318 style transmissions; it's full synchro and a lot stronger. You can adapt levers/rods, but the Muncie 318 would be easiest to use the stock levers/rods. You could also find a Muncie 319 (just a 318 with a BW R-10 overdrive attached) and have an OD trans. Hnstray is right on the bellhousings to use.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Okay thanks @56sedandelivery I was hoping you would chime in most of the stuff I found was you on other forms. I think that bell housing I pictured is a 265. How much different is the 6 cylinder to a 8 cylinder?

 

The "265", V-8 bellhousing won't work with a 216-235-261 Chevrolet or early GMC 248-270-302 six cylinder engines; it/they will fit the later 194-215-230-250-292 Chevrolet sixes, and even the Pontiac OHC sixes. But, as long as you get the right year SIX cylinder truck or passenger car bellhousing, like Hnstray mentioned, those transmissions will bolt to to them.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

I think that bottom pic of the Borg Warner gearbox is a T-10 4 speed, not a T-85 3 speed. The T-10 was a further development of the T-85 and the main cases/side covers look alike.

However, look closely at the tail housing. I think I see the shift shaft for reverse in that caked mud/grease.

Ray

 

I think I see it also. and what looks like the rectangle that the arm fits onto?

.

 

"You're not gonna use that dirty thing, are you???" (old Hebrew proverb)

 

Isn't a 1947 is vacuum shift? That will complicate things in using the column shifter.

 

I don't think so but I've been wrong before I will check it out.

I will do my best to answer all the questions soon, my wife and I are going to the hospital to have our new baby girl tomorrow.
So I will be playing the waiting game this weekend. But once she is in our arms back at it. Thanks to all of you, your wisdom means more then you will ever know truly.

 

I see it now also; darned glasses! T-10 4 speed; if it's any good use that with a floor shi9fter. I am Butch/56sedandelivery

 

It may be, or may have been. Doesn't matter. The vacuum canister is on the transmission and will be chucked into the scrap pile with the old trans

The shift arms on the column can be connected to the replacement trans by the usual rods.

Ray

 

Vacuum shifter was just a helper. Can be unhooked and shift like a normal one.

Ben

 

Any body have a good idea on a rearend? @Hnstray was talking about different options would a 55 passenger car work I know the lug pattern is wrong but can always use a spacer to fix that. There are a few on Craigslist now pretty cheap. Would give me time to clean it up.

 

6 bolt axles can be found in GM 1/2 tons and most Japanese pickup most will stand up to a chevy 6.

 

Skip using a cheap rear from that age, WITH the wrong bolt pattern. The older the rear, the better chance it will be geared for around town only.

I don't have measurements, but I would look around for 67-72 Chevy/GMC truck (these are 6 lug). 1969 was the last year for the narrower 1/2 ton rears. 1970-only is still 6 lug on 2wd and 4x4, but 1.5" wider. 71-up is also 1.5" wider than 69-down, but you'd need the 1/2 ton 4x4 to get 6 lug.

As a general rule Chevy/GMC ratios prior to later 60s are normally 3.7 which is not a great highway gear. A few A/T trucks had a 3.07 then, and that ratio got easier to find by 70 or so.

You might be able to get the widths of these on the hamb 60-66 Cevy GMC thread, or ask on that thread
.

 

I was looking into 6-lug rears for my Fleetline recently and saw that a Chevy Colorado or GMC Canyon rear might work. The 4x2 rear I saw was 3.42 gear ratio while the 4x4 was a 3.73 ratio. I'm not sure about the width but those trucks are narrow.

 

Cant help if you're married to the 6 lug rear end, but I put a 57 Chevy in my 48 Fleetline. Easy, fast and good. Then front discs.

 

Thanks @belair I just picked up a set of wheels and tires figured the skinny bias ply tires would be easier to steer. I could always go with spacers if there is room. The tri 5 rear is a lot easier to find and has Bendix brakes.

 

You won't need power steering if you don't put WIDE tires on the car. That big steering wheel gives you lots of leverage.

 

I have been doing my research and was wounding what kind of freeway speeds I will get with a 3 speed. I wanted to keep the column shift but I do have that t10. Any one know if it's crazy expensive to rebuild like a muncie 4 speed is.

 

Hay @belair when you put that 55 rear did you use stock size tires? I do have one laying under a future hard top project and Bendix brakes are way cheaper then the stock set up. I'm sure you know this. I need to get this driving soon first annual WIHRH 3rd Saturday in May.

 

The final ratio on a 3 speed is the same as 4th gear on a Muncie or T10. So, it won't change your speed.

 

I dont know if the p235 15 75s I used are taller than the stock tires or not. I even had 17's on it for awhile. Tire size didn't seem to affect driveability.

 

I was wounding because of wheel space in the wheel well. If I would be able to ise spacers and still use my tire I picked up for the meantime. Thanks f&j

 

@belair wh w n you dod the disk upgrade do you put on a booster?

 

No booster. Not much room under the floor. Obviously, I didnt go with a hanging pedal and firewall mount for the MC. I don't care for power brakes on my old stuff. The wheels I used were at least 6 inches wide. The Ralleys were Corvette wheels, and I know they are one inch wider than the Chevelle wheels. The 17s may have been 8. The Corvette wheels and tires didnt rub on the outside, but did polish a few high spots on the inner rear. The car is for sale here on the HAMB. The pics may help you with tire size. (OR you might buy it).