Customs 37 Plymouth coupe build

this is my 59 I'm trying to have done in a few weeks and painted this summer
and this is the 52 I'm doing for the wife and everything is being done in lead and we hope to have the roof flaked with in a few weeks and maybe a few little things but for now it's a driver till the 59 is done



Once these are a little more complete I'll be working non stop on the 37 but I'm also restoring a house so this summer might only see me buying parts and maybe some disassembly on the Plymouth

 

here's a picture of the 52

 

I worked on the 37 tonight and I got a master rebuild kit and of course it was the wrong one but when I took the old one apart it was rebuilt not Long ago but had some nasty stuff inside it so I cleaned it a reassemble but I think I might have messed up haha...after putting it back together the way we thought it would be and I got it back on the car it had no spring back and we tried bleeding it a few times and no fluid to the driver side front at all so I might just get a new master and call it a done deal but also the car has som other issues like it won't start now ... And the battery was almost dead and I had it disconnected but I believe it's some type of charging issue and also probably bad grounds because it want when I parked it but I didn't disconnect the battery while it was running to see if it died.... And the carb needs rebuilt so where I'm at right now is trying to make the decision on whether to just buy the stuff to get it running and driving stock (keep in mind I have 2 other cars I need to have done this year ) or I can just buy the parts I need that I can afford now to bag it once I get the 59 on the road this summer ... I just don't want to waist money on things I'll be removing in a year or less and I don't need to drive it even though I would want to ...and the plan might be to take the body off to do the work and paint it all nice and have it finished right ...I would get everything tacked in solid then take it apart because I do not have a lift and I fell like it would be the best and right way to do the chassis and then drop the stock body back on and be done

 

Another one in progress.

 

To answer your earlier question, I modified the original steering column to work with the MII manual steering rack.

As for your other questions, I would concentrate on getting your other two projects buttoned up first. Then you can decide on what direction you want to go with the '37. Too easy to waste time and money going in the wrong direction when you don't have a plan to work with.

 

I want to make it look stock so I would want to use the stock pedals and put the master for clutch and brake under the floor

 

I'll have to look into using that box and thanks for the info I believe I'm gonna just let it sit for now and get my plan worked out

 

Awesome thanks for the pictures if you have any other or info on the front end u used that would be awesome

 

Do you have anymore pictures and is it just a basic universal from Fatman

 

I do have more pics, but they're on another computer. The Fatman kit is specific for each model. I got the basic kit, but upgraded to tubular a-arms to eliminate the strut rod.

 

I also used the stock column.

I cut it off at the steering box, and then cut the outer tube back by about 4". I fabbed-up a support to attach the lower portion of the tube to the firewall. A shouldered wheelbarrow bearing and split lock ring from the hardware store took care of the lower end of the column. From there, I used a Sweet u-joint that was 3/4" smooth bore on one end, and 3/4" DD on the other. I welded that on with a wet rag wrapped around it.

I don't think that I have a picture of that particular one, but I am sure that have one of another car that I did. I will dig on up when I get home.

Wheelbarrow bearing:

Split lock:

Simple, cheap, easy.

 

This is a '50 Chevy (not finish welded, ignore the taper):

 

That's pretty high tech compared to what I did. I took a hard plastic cutting board and a hole saw, and made a nice thick nylon bushing for the bottom of the steering column. Held it in place with two set screws through the outer steering column sleeve. Filed two flats on the end of the steering shaft, and fit it into a double-D universal joint. Done deal.

 

This is less work.

 

I have to do this to my 52 also they did a shit job on it i haven't decided if I'll get a stock column it a aftermarket one ...the one that's in the Chevy is out of a 80s van and it's set up for floor shift now so it looked even worse lol

 

Got the 37 started and running today apparently something was up with the key I just keep trying it and shaking it and finally it turned over and started so I'll have to investigate that but also when the battery is disconnected and I reconnect it there is a spark and we noticed the voltage regulator clicks when this happens so I'm gonna try to get it to ground better and if that won't fix it and stop the spark then I will replace it and Monday I'm ordering a new master cylinder and after replacing that I'll try driving it around stock for now before I tear it apart

 

The stock column in a '52 (and the like) is a 1-3/4" tube, about 0.063". The upper bearing end is relieved a little bit, which you can do with a die grinder, to take the upper bearing/horn contact.

Easy enough to duplicate.

 

finally for the right master so hopefully this weekend I'll get it stopping and then try to ground the voltage regulator better ...idk if I already said this but when it's not running and the battery is connected it sparked and you can hear a click coming from the voltage regulator so my first thought is ground because it runs good and charges well

 

Ok well new master is in but I'm having issues ....
I started at the front drivers side to see if I got any fluid and nothing was coming from the bleeder so I tried the line and I got fluid from the rubber line on the drivers side and they are new rubber lines all the way around (done before me)
I tried covering the bleeder hole with a finger and had my wife move the pedal back and forth and I felt no pressure or pull at all so I tired the drivers rear and I got nothing from the bleeder but did not have time to try any lines ....
I'm going to try cracking the bleeders and let it sit over night and see if it will gravity bleed at all ...I'm told it has all new and or rebuilt wheel cylinders but I have a feeling they might have lied it there bad ...
Also got to find a new spring for the brake pedal return this was broke and they welded it for some reason haha

 

I also picked up this mustang 2 front end for 800 it's a hites or whatever and came with the disc brakes power rack and stock a arms which it fine because I'm going to bag it . I know you can't really see it but it's on the shelf and came with a lot of extra parts

 

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder?

 

Yes I put it on the car and left the line loose and pumped it till work fluid came out and put the line on ...


I believe I am just dumb because I'm the pic i will post you can see the bleeder bolt has a bolt inside of it and I was trying to bleed from the out side bolt but got nothing and when I tried to start gravity bleeding it the passenger side rear it made the larger bolt close to the wheel cylinder turn and tada there was fluid so I just cracked them all at the larger bolt into the cylinders and all of them let some fluid out so I'm letting it sit over night to see if it will gravity bleed and tomorrow I'll get a new return spring and try bleeding it

 

It's okay. It happens to me on a regular basis. Far more often than I should admit.

I almost broke a T56 intermediate housing today. I was looking right at the last bolt that I failed to remove, too.

 

I got a little pedal but it seems like it's letting air into the system because the bolt needs to come Almost all the way out before I get a good pressure and air to come out ...I seen in a manual that have a hose and bleeder that attaches to this but I do not have that and I didn't know if I was just fighting against my self


I couldn't find a good spring that would work so I found one on eBay and got it so now the pedal will atleast have some spring to pull it back

 

Hi mate, I'm not sure where you are located, but I am in the Industrial Packaging Industry (strapping). USA has a brand of machine called Signode.... and Samuel - to name a few.... maybe find your local fella and see if you can get a tension spring from them. Strapping machines contain LOTS of springs, and I'll bet they will have something very close to what you need. Great work , you're going really well there.
Cheers, Mudgy

 

I tried a few from the local parts stores bu nothing worked but I found a nos one on eBay so I just bought it but if it doesn't work I'll check that out

 

got the brake pedal return spring in the other day ...I've been busting ass on the 52 trying to get it ready for a show this weekend so it won't be till next week when I get to mess with the brakes some more ...I want to have it ready for a car show not this weekend but next ..idk if it will happen though

 

it's hard to get a good picture but this is my wife's 52 I've been working on ...just flaked the top and working on the lead work for the headlights and a few little things we want to get finished before the weekend

 

Ok well I hate to say it but I was given a good running 350 by my dad and due to the budget I'm working on its going to be what I use ...now I need to figure a transmission that I can use and keep the shifter close to the stock location as much as possible and I want to try to have a 5speed and nothing crazy expensive...also I need a rear end that will fit and clear everything when bagged also want to keep it Chevy if possible ...any suggestions

 

Nice car, im subscribed, looking at youre other cars this one should turn out awesome too