Technical *** June 2016 Banger Meet - Time for Crickets and June bugs***

Here is the banger link list:

For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Here is a list of most of the prior monthly banger meet links:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

The link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-bang-er-thread.470853/page-4#post-5212157
and this link shows the missing image from the above post
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-work-on-bangers.1010716/page-3#post-11427055

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484


Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://web.archive.org/web/20120415...e.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:

http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:

http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php


Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05


Chevy Banger Stuff

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

New Banger Block in the Works
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/new-banger-block-in-the-works.616056/

 

Checking in.....32/36 Weber is great may have lost some power as I did not replace the chrome head nut covers when I replaced the head gasket

 

Thanks for the link !!!
Holy crap it's June!!!! How did that happen

 

june, june, june,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,JUNE!! Already!!
August will be here before I know it.

sorry, back to the regularly scheduled program.......

 

checking in with daily running of the last bangers....

 

Just been enjoying my stocker. When I get back from the east coast I hope to start on the T for real.

 

August!?...does August have a special significance?

 

Grandson is now 4, just added five powder coated wheels to his A chassis project. Can he join 4Ever4 now? Bob

 

OK now the 4 year olds are showing me up. Time to move faster on my project.

 

At what point do you start to need billet rods?

 

Checking in for the month! Hopefully within a week I will start priming my coupe. I will post up some pictures when I get to spraying.

 

Bonneville Speedweek.

 

How does the salt look this year?

 

what carb ? any more pix . nice car

 

It's a Weber 32/36 on a manifold available from Bert's Model A in Denver. Had to machine the manifold to get it to fit under the hood.

This is the second Zipper built by Darrell in 2000 and the only one I know of with a banger.

 

the weber is different than mine . cool car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

1243

 

Plug the 1/4" hole with a 5/16" set screw. Thread the hole with a 5/16" - 18 tap but don't tap it all the way through. Use a set screw that will bottom out and sit below the top surface of the block. Then fill the remaining hole with JB weld and file it flush when hard. Do all of the 1/4" holes.


.

 

Finally finished up my pickup enough to drive around more than the neighborhood. I had the engine rebuilt from Rich in Skokie he did a touring engine for me with a counterbalanced crank and a Bill Stipe cam. The head is a Charlie Yapp Riley 2 port along with his Y headers running to the dual exhaust. I installed a 904 automatic trans from a slant 6. The trans swap led me to add ladder bars and make a few new cross members. I swapped out the original steering box for a 1956 ford pickup box and added the 39 banjo. The truck had hydraulic brakes when I bought it,while redoing the brakes I went with the Lockheed style front brakes. While test driving around the neighborhood the last couple of months working out the little kinks, I found my radiator was bad. I had it recored last week by my wife's cousin who is 70 he still runs his dad's radiator shop although I don't know how much business he still does. He let me watch him take it apart and called me when the core came in so I could see th process of swapping in the new core. Let's see if these pics work ?

 

It looks like the pictures worked now let me try a video.

 

Nope. Well one for two is not bad. I have a couple short four to five second videos of it ideling in the drive.

 

A freshly machined head and block don't always mean you will have a joint flat enough to use a solid copper gasket. Many people believe you need to lap the head to the block to get the surfaces flat enough.

.

 

What Crazeedadyo said
I would suggest that you do not use anything on the Best gasket
65 ft lbs is pushing the upper envelope of the range. I do not like to go above 55 ft lbs on the head torque. You will start to draw the stud out of the hole.
Make sure you follow the thermal cycling of the engine. I will let the head set for hours and re torque cold
Operate up to temp turn off and let sit until ambient temperature and re-torque
Go for a drive and let cool to ambient temp and re-torque
I keep re-torqueing until I get no more tightening of the nut

Let us know how the fire rings work out

 

I believe you said "solid copper" . if so you need to "O" ring the block . it will never stay sealed unless you do . we ran a drag bike with solid copper head gasket because the are reusable . but the "O" ring is a must . hope you get it fixed ................. steve

 

Regarding head gasket:
Thanks guys! Hot Rod Dirt Drags is June 10th-12th so 9 days is plenty of time for me to break something else.

 

same as every other year at this time, under water.
The conditions will not show for another month or so and then there will be all the speculation.
"we are racing, up until the event is cancelled" there are also two rain date applications with the BLM.

J

 

I am not sure about the lapping process, I would think the decks move too much to be effective.
I do agree with the 55# torque figure, and use the best studs available. I think the 65# number came from a time when the studs were NC threads on both ends, that would make the clamping force about the same.
As for Best gasket sealant, I have not seen a need for it, however, I don't leave them on for too long a time.

Solid copper gaskets need to be annealed every time you take one off and reuse. I have copper orings in decks and use silicone to seal up the water. The first time I used one without sealant looked like a sprinkler when the pump came on.

J

 

Yeah mate, I was really being a bit facetious , I hope for your sake there is enough salt and good weather, however once again I won't make it this year, still sorting Dad's estate, can't leave farm and animals to fend for themselves.... I like to make it a 3 month visit when I do get to the USA in summer.

 

Check in! I didn't post much!! Just this year I purchased an smart phone!!! So Now I can post in any time!!!

Enviado desde mi XT1068 mediante Tapatalk

 

Enviado desde mi XT1068 mediante Tapatalk