I got this picture in a text. I'm supposed to go look and make an offer. Was told it's a 35 Plymouth coupe. Does a 36 front end swap? I prefer the 36 but just really want a coupe so I'm not going to complain. I want to know what a fair offer may be so I can deal on site. I know it is based on rust and what not. Let's consider it to basically be a shell.
Is that all there is of it, no frame? No title? I'm generally the optimist when it comes to values (especially around here where people seem to think projects should sell for scrap price) but in this case, I would say maybe $500, unless it's got a really nice grille or something. The Mopars of that era don't have a strong following and that one is going to need a lot.
No frame, no grille and no title. That much he already said. I believe it has the hood and sides. Not sure about interior.
Pass on it. It will cost way more to find and buy all the missing stuff then you can buy a complete car for.
It's easier for me to piece a car together than to buy it complete. I never have the money when I've seen them complete and they rarely come up for sale around here. I have too many things that demand my attention therefore I cannot acquire $4-6000 for a more complete problem. I already have a chassis. I also enjoy the thrill of the chase when it comes to finding parts. I know it costs more in the long run by I don't mind.
Got this one a few years ago because it was affordable in comparison to Fords and Chevys. It has grown on me, but be prepared to make all your parts and folks asking " What's that?". $500 is a fair price for what's shown. If you can find an original chassis, the suspension handles better than most early Fords I've driven.
I'd be willing to bet you could drop it on a 35-40 ford chassis, especially since you're probably gonna have to do the floors. aesthetically it's very similar to the 35/6 ford. add a ford grill and perhaps front fenders that'd really mess with people Sent from my SM-G920R4 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Windshield is different, trunklid, but I think the front sheetmetal can be made to work, but doubt it's a bolt on. Have never dealt with other than original chassis...most have been converted to ifs. The frame for the 35 is a very solid foundation but in 36 I think they went back to a factory IFS, as they had in 34. This may affect front sheet metal and bracket attachments.
If you could find a rough but complete 4 door with a rolling frame, title, grille, ect. on it for under a grand, you could combine it with this and it would be a viable project. I still think $500 is a plenty fair offer though, unless it's got something I'm not seeing.
You ask what it's worth to me? Well...I don't want to insult anyone and thus spoil the deal but I don't want to pay too much either. I'm aware of what complete running/non running coupes go for but am much less versed in a project in this condition. Sometimes I spend too much because projects I like can become more emotional and less logical.
I believe it to be a 35' the front windshield comes down to a point on either side at the bottom where it meets the top of the cowl on a 36' not rounded as the one in the pic appears to be. See photo...if I did it right.
If I had a chassis,um, wait a minute,I'd like to get a guy I know, Phillip Jerguson, to weld up a chassis with a 60s mopar torsion bar set up, take that coupe and put it in the weeds. Put a wide 318 with the polysphere built like the one in the enginemasters series(stroker kit worked heads and the new intake that CPPA has been selling)No sense going on as I'd have to sell three of my cars to get this far, but you get my jist I saw Phillip take a 55 GMC, put a torsion bar set up and a 318 wedge out of his wrecked 68 Charger in it just because someone said he couldn't. It was a nice looking truck, and it blew a lot of minds when he would crank it up and make that Chrysler starter sound. It drove straight which is a lot more than I can say about some of the mid sixties trucks I see running the roads here.
I was just getting ready to post a 35 Ply left front in the classifieds when I saw this. check it out if you need it.
If you want a Plymouth coupe. 1500 would be a good deal if your search has come up empty. Sure you can wait for a cheaper one, but how far away will it be located. And what condition will it be in.
I agree with Squablow, find a 4door parts car or complete and convert. That way you get the bulk of the parts in one shots. Sort of what I did. If you want to have all the bits and pieces that are missing on the car you will end up piece mealing about 2K or more. Im working on a '33 Plymouth, have all the parts now but not under 3K for sure.
I have a39 plymouth, if you enjoy the chase you will have a good time looking for parts but they are out there. I like my plymouth because it is different and not many of them out there. I have people ask me what it is all the time.
35 plymouths are completely different from 36 plymouths, no interchange on body parts! any dash pictures? 36 plymouth has single large round gauge. get me a better picture and i can id it, been messing with 1936 plymouths since 1976 and i know the cars!
If you can't id the car by the picture he supplied, you probably don't know 35-36 Plymouths that well. The big tell is the windshield opening- round bottom corners on the 35 and the 36 has points. The front and rear fenders on a 35 have no bead on the lips, the 36 has. The 35 has a small deck lid or rumble and the 36 has a large deck lid that ends about 10 " from the bottom of the body. Dashes are different, doors have a different molding line down the side. The openings are the same. The rear fenders will bolt on. I'm sure the front clip from a 36 would bolt on . These cars are different but there are many parts that will bolt on. I think a fair price would be in the 700-1200 range. If it has a solid floor, deck lid, dash and window moldings,
That coupe is rough, but if you're persistant, and if the price is right (cheap!), it could be fixed and it could make a cool car again. The truck cab would bring a few hundred bucks to the right guy, a lot better if the driver's door is there somewhere. If you can get both for $500 and sell the cab for half of that, then you're into your coupe really cheap. Did the guy throw a price out yet, or did you offer? If you have the skills to fab a new custom frame, or can find something that would fit the wheelbase, you could build that coupe without a donor car, you'll just have to find something to use as a grille (maybe something custom, lots of '36 Fords gained Packard grilles in custom surrounds in the heyday) since you've got fenders and a hood. Similarly rough cars have been turned beautiful in the past, it's possible, I'd love to follow along if you take it on.
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