Technical Is Rustolem good enough to paint a chassis?

I have the body off of my Pontiacs chassis now (a link to the thread is in my signature) and I am looking for a low priced paint that will last well. Is rustolem going to stand up? Are there any other paints that you would recommend?

Thank you in advance for the help!

-Falcon H

 

I use rustoleum semi -gloss black thinned with acetone and sprayed with a 2.0 nozzle .
It lays down very nice and is quite durable. It works well on inner fenderwells.

 

In a word, I would say yes.

 

What are your plans for this chassis? Are you going to put the body back on, and drive the car? or is it headed to the ISCA show circuit? Or something in between?

Different paints meet different requirements...my guess is the Rustoleum will work for what you want to do, but I'm just guessing.

 

por-15

 

ive used satin black rustoleum on a bunch of frames
works grea,t use a brush to get in the nooks and crannnies, and a short nap weenie roller on the outside last.
gives it a kind of mild pebble grain
takes a wile to dry but once its dry its pretty tough and easy to spot repair
I jokingly call it por 14

 

It's going to be my daily driver, so it will see a lot of use.
Thanks!

 

Rustoleum is what I used on the frame under the Ranch Wagon and assorted suspension parts,it holds up well but it's not a show car. HRP

 

Just did my 49 Buick frame. Used Rustoleum rusty metal primer and topped with satin black. Did it all with a brush.

 

I painted rustoleum rusty metal primer in 1991, put a second coat on in 2000, & redid it again last year. As well as, actually painting the frame & suspension in gloss black this time. I have never had a problem with it chipping or flaking, even being out side in the weather. If you combine it with a good quality rubberized undercoating in the right places it will last along time. Thanks.

 

Yup it will work great for a driver!
I see your in Waco also, that's cool, look forward to seeing your Pontiac cruising the streets!

 

Thank you! Do you go to many local shows or anything? I saw your truck at the round-up and liked it a lot.

 

Any idea how well it will hold up to snow and salt, from winter driving?

 

We do church of the open door sometimes, just always the same ole stuff ya know? Always do round up and the Dallas shows, the good stuff.
Thank you! I just skimmed through your build thread, I really like the route your choosing to go with your car.
If your interested I have a locked up Pontiac v8/hydramatic from a 56 GMC I dont need, would mainly be extra parts for you.

 

My local powder coat shop quoted me $300. to do a frame, and they do all the prep work.

 

Have you had any problems with solvents or brake fluid, gas etc with the powdered frame ? Thinking of doing the same with mine. There was a thread about some guys having problems with their powered frames. Love your ride. By the way.

 

I use Southern Polyurethane's DTM black epoxy, drys hard as heck, smooth satin look and makes 2 gallon sprayable, probably more $$ than rustoleum but great for sealing up blasted metal frames. I must not used rustoleum enamel correctly because it seems to stay soft for a long time even out of the rattle cans ??

 

I have a utility trailer that was powder coated from the factory. The coating on the fenders peels off in sheets after getting a rock chip and some rust under the powder. Would never do a car frame if I was going to drive it much.

 

I use rustoleum with Dupont hardener and baked in the sun outside for two day @80+ degrees. Works as good as imiron.

 

I rattled canned the chassis of my T Bucket, in the rebuild. The previous frame was powder coated. And the only person that knew..... was me. It looked great and was easy to maintain. And this is the lesson I learned. "If it's in a place, where hardly any one would see or even pay attention, why the hell are you treating it like it's a GAWD damn show car?" So ask yourself, "Are you building a trailer queen or a driver?"

 

Rustoleum worked great for us...
Two months back we painted our truck (1990 Chevy) frame with Rustoleum. Gloss black and thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits and gun sprayed it out in the driveway. Worked out great. Next time I plan to use hardener just to see the difference.
Almost ready to drop the cab back on...

 

easy to apply, easy to repair, not what I would use on a show car, but works great on everything else.
Also, I don't understand why so many people think powdercoat is so awesome. I've seen a rock chip turn into big sheets of it coming off. You know its just plastic paint that melts at a certain temp, right?

 

It is for me.

 

Rustolem Satin 7777, is the Only thing I have found that really has a "Factory" satin finish when Dry! Love the stuff, I shoot it with a lil' urethane reducer... I put either a epoxy or chassis saver down as a base.. And.. You can touch up with a rattle can lickety split need be... Took a long time to find the rite finish "I like" couldn't believe it was rustolem...

 

Chassis saver the best! Some like por 15 also. There is rustoleum industrial spray cans direct to metal. Find at NAPA for about $7 a can. Bigger size can too. Por 15 spray is twice that. Por 15 has a topcoat spray now too in gloss or semi gloss. Can you tell I work at napa. LOL. The paint isle is mine to up keep and stock.

 

Chassis saver is wicked stuff don't get it on your hands it won"t come off has to wear off. Brush on best. If you spray they make a reducer specifically for it. But if out in direct soun needs the topcoat.

 

Used Rustolem for years on several different OT vehicle rear ends and suspension parts, never a problem.

 

I've used Krylon Rust Tough in semi gloss black with great results. It takes 24 hours to dry but stands up very well on frames and suspension stuff. I've been using Rustoleum lately 'cause I have to drive farther to get Krylon, seems like they both work about the same, but Krylon touches up better. In either case I use the appropriate primer and hit the dry primer with ScotchBrite before the finish coats. It comes out very professional looking for a rattle can job.

 

DING!

 

Works for me,been using on all my frames for a bit,first one I painted with it was in 1959