I bought some POR-15 in about 1998 for a Chevelle Project that I sold off. I still have a full can of the POR-15, Tie Coat Primer and Chassis Black as well as a partial can of POR-15. I just poured a little out of the partial can (I used sht metal screws to create a vent and a pour spout so little if any air would get into the paint when I first used it back in 98-99) It poured just like I remembered and using an acid brush I painted a section ot the rectangular tubing the rear floor support frame is made out of on my 48 Willys jeep project. It flowed out just like I remembered. So I want to use this stuff between the frame and the floor sheet metal as a Rust barrier. A photo of the frame and floor The wood strips are just so I can see how the Oak strips will lay out. Basically the floor is a flat sheet of 16ga with the sides of the pass side tool box welded to it. The white in this photo is the Tool box lid. If my test of the POR-15 sets up can anyone (aside from POR-15 bias) think of a reason I couldn't use it on top of the frame and the corresponding area on the underside of the floor to prevent rust. I am planning on seaming the seams after the floor is pop riveted down and then applying an epoxy coating followed by Kirker Primer and paint. The POR-15 will not be under the epoxy primer as I will mask off its application to just the area between the two layers.
If it's still liquid and you can brush it on I suspect it will be OK. I have a half gallon of it that I need to check to make sure it's not a solid chunk.
If you can still brush it on, I'd run with it. Do a section and let it dry. If it looks good, use it. Sent from my SM-G920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
IMO , if you put wood directly over [coated ] steel , the wood will absord moisture & buckle & the steel will rust , especially where there are any holes [pop rivet] dave
If you use it on the sheet metal be sure to rough up the metal as the por will not stick to smooth finish very well.
I had the can stored for a couple years in an air tight baggy stored upside down and it had a consistency of molasses, I didn't use it.
Once opened they told me at por15 to refrigerate it. It'll keep a long time that a way. I'm using some now n then that's 2-3 years old that's been kept cool. In a plastic grocery sack too. Flux
The wood will be sealed to prevent moisture absorbtion. Also this Willys will be sporting a full aluminum top. Which should protect the floor from weather. Willys station wagons used White Oak strips on top of the metal floor ribs with no problems.
Im not at all worried about how to store this POR-15 its been sitting in a cardboard box in my shop for like 18 years already and is still paintable. I just checked and the test piece I painted about 4 hours ago is setting up as it should. I think I am going to start masking off the floor and the frame for the POR-15.
I thought that por-15 was made to encapsulate rust on metal. Not to prevent rust from starting. That is what primer and paint are for. And as said previously por-15 will not stick to smooth metal, it'll peal right up. As far as old por-15 I'd make sure that it is thoroughly mixed (shaken or stirred) as I'm sure parts of it has settled and stuck to the bottom and to be sure it's mixed I'd pull the lid and stir it good.
You are told to never shake POR-15 as it creates air bubbles in the stuff. If I pull the lid its done. This job took about 4 ounces of it. Be a shame to waste the rest as it got moisture to it when I go to stir it. And yes I know how to use it my only question was if anyone knew a reason to not use it if it was OLD. My parts have been scuffed up real good with a 100 grit orbital sander in multiple directions. POR-15 seals up the metal not allowing moisture or air for that mater to reach the metal. Pretty sure that will prevent rust from happening. In any case the discussion is moot as I just finished putting the stuff on the parts. In about 2 hours I'll go pull the masking tape off so I can get it off.
I just finished 80 % of an ih scout chassis this afternoon with the same 2-3 year old por15 quart. Went from 3/4 to 1/2 full today & back to the fridge. It's still as good as the first try. While it's still tacky I hit it with some duplicolor rattle can semi gloss black for easy touchups. This frame was steam cleaned & rough wire brushed & it turned out awesome as its a 21,xxx mile 1963 model , 90 % original paint survivor. I'm gonna use por15 clear underneath on the original floors, bed & wheel wells. Good product. I usually wet the floors & shut the door overnight & it dries nicely. I think refrigerating it just helps get the lid off easier, my first go around it fused itself to the can. I got a gallon of xylol to wipe off smudges too. Neat willys sir. Flux
don't put unused POR-15 in a mason jar and put in shop fridge. it makes the girl scout cookies taste like shit.
As long as you can brush it it is fine.If you have some that has thickened up it is great for sheet metal areas with tiny pinholes or inside the drip rails.
Hope you used their "Metal Ready" for that zinc phosphate coating the paint likes to adhere to. Seems to be the most common mistake made with this product.
Not to hijack but, has anyone used the POR-15 POR Patch that comes in a tube? I need to patch a tiny pinhole in a motorcycle tank and I'm curious if it will work. Thanks.
Mark, you gotta be the doing something right, I can't get POR15 to last a year, even with the sheetmetal screws. I used it on new steel tube, wiped with panel prep, etch with oxalic acid, neutralized, DA, more panel prep, and it still peeled. I only use it on rusted panels now.
I have used POR15 on several projects and was totally satisfied. If used in any exposed areas, some of their products should be topcoated since they do not all have UV protection. Like others have said, if it is still liquid you should be able to use it. Once opened I have always transferred mine to a plastic container and put it in the refrigerator where it keeps for very long periods of time. This thread reminded me that I wanted to coat the inside of a tailgate on my current 2dr Wagon conversion project. Just checked my POR15 supply in the refrigerator and it is good to go. Looks like I will be busy this afternoon.
Go get some fuel tank hole sealer.....it's a gas resistant putty. Clean and pack the hole shut. Then use Kreem, RedKote or POR15 gas tank coating to seal the inside up for good. Sent from my SM-G900V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've used it to fill some tiny holes in an OT gm a-body vynil top window channel. To fix a trunk leak. Goes on like tooth paste , easy to work ,but not sure how it'd act around gas. Flux
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