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Hot Rods Aluminum or Copper/Brass Radiator?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hnstray, May 17, 2016.

  1. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    I am going to be ordering a new radiator for my '38 Buick new engine install. What I'd like to know is your opinion, based on experience, with either aluminum or copper/brass radiators. The brands I am aware of are Griffin (alum), Walker (copper/brass) and U.S. Radiator (copper/brass). I don't know if U.S. Radiator does custom builds.

    Ray
     
  2. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have used all of them with good results. I am sure that you will get a wide range of opinions.

    If it is a trad build, you know what to do.
     
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  3. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    If, by that last line, you mean copper/brass, that is my inclination. I have a more favorable impression of them, but thought I'd see what others had to say.

    Ray
     
  4. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    They all work. It is down to build quality on the radiator itself, and build style on the car.
     
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  5. On my avatar I have an aluminum radiator from Dillon Radiator, Rochester, MN. It is well mounted with Barry Mounts (22000 series, Aircraft Spruce), Satin black powder coated ($40) and works perfectly, I really like the light weight of this radiator and have no regrets.
    http://dillonradiator.com/
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2016
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  6. jeffd1988
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 537

    jeffd1988

    I put aluminum one on my project and the way the thing looks through my grille is tuff i like it it cools realy good better than my stock brass ild one I dont have to worry of rust. Plus its lighter. But if your going with like how the first guy said in last sentence. All depend on the build if you like traditional then go that route. I feel aluminum is better. in my point of view
     
  7. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,711

    55willys
    Member

    A friend just pulled the aluminum radiator out of his Pantera because of a small leak when it was warm. Turns out that electrolysis ate it up in about 12 years. Copper brass will continue to transfer heat after it is over temp where as aluminum reaches heat soak and becomes less efficient
     
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  8. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    I've run them both and have seen no difference in efficiency. I have had a Brassworks radiator in my 27 for over 25 years and just replaced it because it was looking a little tired, replaced it with another Brassworks radiator.

    As we speak, PRC is building me an aluminum radiator for my rpu project, this is about the 4th one we have gotten from them.
    I think it boils down to personal preference and cost. My Brassworks cost me $ 1000, the PRC is $ 500.

    Don
     
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  9. Have a friend that's has two near new Griffin alum. setting in his junk pile. Both leaked and are not repairable. Alum. need to be grounded. The electrolysis thing is real. I have clue how all that works but it's real.
     
  10. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,208

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    If you truly need a CUSTOM radiator, there's a guy here in NJ that makes them to order. C.A.R.S. Any core type (straight or staggered), any number of cores, w/ or w/o trans cooler, temp bungs, inlet and outlet any size, and location. I highly recommend them! No aluminum, all brass/copper.
     
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  11. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Thanks, Guys, for the replies. I used the term 'custom' because I will need inlet and outlet different from stock '38 Buick size and location.

    I am aware of the potential for electrolysis, but need to get better schooled on the subject were I to use aluminum. However, the engine I am installing (OT) has a lot of aluminum components exposed to coolant. That, and the weight savings, are what prompted me to consider an aluminum radiator.

    Ray
     
  12. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    I figure I am running aluminum heads, intake , and water pump, so the aluminum radiator is the least of my worries electrolysis wise. Never had an issue with any of those parts corroding, so why would a radiator be any different ?

    The engine in my daily driver is all aluminum, as is the radiator, so I just run antifreeze in everything that is made for "all engines, all metals". Never seen one issue with an aluminum radiator.


    Don
     
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  13. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL


    :) Kind of what I was thinking too, Don. Thanks for the confirmation.

    Ray
     
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  14. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    X2 on Custom Auto Radiator. :)
     
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  15. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    I just read your build thread......had only seen some of it before.....very nicely done!


    Thank you, Craig and Bob, for the recommendations. I will check with both shops.

    Ray
     
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  16. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    Walker the best copper/brass radiator hands down. My 46 Ford convertible radiator is almost 20 years old and still going strong when I sold the car. Walkers are pricey but well worth the money. I learned a long time ago that when it comes to brakes, steering and cooling always buy the best. You'll never be disappointed.

    Gary
     
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  17. G V Gordon
    Joined: Oct 29, 2002
    Posts: 5,713

    G V Gordon
    Member
    from Enid OK

    That, and the weight savings, are what prompted me to consider an aluminum radiator.

    Ray[/QUOTE]

    Youre builing a '38 Buick and are worried about the weight of the radiator? :rolleyes:
    We use PRC here at the shop, very high quality, but I have a cheap Chinese knockoff in my T and it's on it's third season.
    Any good radiator shop should be able to build you a custom unit. Just remember custom = $$$.
     
  18. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,180

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    as added protection for aluminum parts run a Rad Cap: anti-electrolysis/sacrificial anode radiator cap
     
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  19. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I considered Walker for my '32 and '40, as they do make a quality product. They would, however, not work with me on any mods or changes that I needed. Custom Auto Radiator was willing to work with me on certain modifications I wanted, along with producing a very high quality copper/brass radiator comparable in cost, that reflects their name fully. :cool:
     
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  20. Ordered my radiator from Jeff, @ Dillon Radiator, Rochester MN. Pd. $204.95, modified for the Buick engine, top hose on the rt, bottom hose on the left. He said these are quality radiators, and that he will stand by them. This radiator will have a tranny cooler, free shipping! Look great powder coated.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2016
  21. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 7,589

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Have an aluminum radiator in my avatar A pickup. The other day it developed a very slight leak at the top tank where the support rod bracket is welded to the tank, right at the weld. If this was a brass tank I'd fix it easily with a little solder, I've done that many times over the years with other vehicles. I've even patched an old tank that was rotting out from corrosion, but I didn't want to spend the money on a new radiator; with a little brass shim stock from the hardware store soldered in place over the weak spot it was good to go for several more years. But with an aluminum radiator, that shit don't work; you can't solder aluminum. What I should do is pull it and take it to a welder and have it TIG welded, but once again I took the cheap route and patched it with some JB Weld. I let it sit for about 20 hours, then pressure tested the system to 14 lbs (the cap is rated at 13 lbs) and it held up to that, so I started it up and got it up to full operating temp, and so far so good, but I'm not real comfortable with it yet. Not real keen on the looks either.

    If it doesn't rain on Saturday I'm taking it out to a local rod run, I guess that will be the true test. I should probably start looking for a replacement, and I think I will go with copper/brass next time. The ease of repair with copper/brass along with the other added benefits just makes sense.
     
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  22. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,770

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    cooper/brass for me--Walker or US radiator--have used both in 40's with no issues. Had a Griffin in a 55--didn't cool well--replaced with a US radiator copper/brass--no more issues.
     
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  23. silent rick
    Joined: Nov 7, 2002
    Posts: 5,207

    silent rick
    Member

    as far as being traditional or not, ryan doesn't seem to mind. there's cars on the traditional side of this forum running aluminum radiators and the moderators let them stay.
    heck, there's a car with an electric fan, it doesn't seem to bother the moderators.
     
  24. In the last 40 year I have used most of the radiators that are on the market,U.S. Radiator,Walker,Champion,Brass-works & Griffin.

    By far the absolutely worse radiator was the Griffin,and Buddy Griffin built it for me before they really entered the hot rod market,NASCAR was his main market at that time.

    I had nothing but trouble with may 39 Ford convertible overheating,after 2 years of problems Buddy replaced my radiator because I bitched so much about it not cooling,I used a electric fan because that's what he recommended,I used water wetter as per his advice and even changed pulleys....it still ran hot,never again will I use a aluminum radiator on any car I build,nor will I use a electric fan,these two pieces of junk did major damage to the engine in my car.

    The other copper/brass radiators will do the job but I have to say the Walker is the best as far as I'm concerned,yeah they are expensive but they last.

    The one that was in my '32 Moredoor was 23 years old when I sold the car and the one in my tudor beater is almost that old and I have never had a problem with ether one.

    I also have a Walker in the Ranch Wagon and the other deuce sedan,Walker was also in my old roadster,my coupe and my pickup.

    I honestly believe that Walker Radiators give you more bang for the buck. HRP
     
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  25. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 12,287

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Copper/Brass...& Nickel. Call Lee at BrassWorks. Designed, assembled, polished, and shipped to perfection. He is a great guy to work with and they employ some real artisans.
    Radiator1.jpg
     
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  26. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It's funny in a way that many on here dread running an aluminum radiator in our hot rods while the majority of our daily drivers have run aluminum radiators since the mid 80's. My 92 daily driver work car is banging on 200 K with it's aluminum radiator and that little bugger has enough shakes and rattles to tear anything up and it keeps on keeping on and the radiator hasn't been a problem. The other driver had the plastic tank crap out on me the other day and needs a new radiator but it too has over 200K.

    I'd agree that I don't like the looks of them in my hot rods or customs but most likely will run an aluminum radiator in the 48 this go around because of the cost difference.
     
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  27. jeffd1988
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 537

    jeffd1988

    Maybe this is why my friend told me to buy distilled water and straight antifreez and make my own 50/50. Because he said he doesnt trust there 50/50 antifreeze at the store.
     
  28. AZbent
    Joined: Nov 26, 2011
    Posts: 279

    AZbent
    Member

    I always understood that as the anti-freeze ages it turns into an acid, and that is what causes an aluminum radiator to rot from the inside out. We need to change the anti-freeze every so often. That is my understanding.
     
  29. Ray ( @Hnstray ) I have used all 3, I like Harrison radiators for copper/brass but I have also used Walkers and others not so well known with good success. I have also used aluminum radiators including scirocco radiators or robbed import radiators of other brands.

    Some things to avoid or watch for when deciding on an aluminum rad, try and find welded radiators, do not use epoxied cores or plastic tanks if at all possible. These are a problem waiting on you to be available.

    Also look for made in USA on any radiator you decide on. Aluminum copper/brass alike. The money you save on an off shore radiator is going to come back and bite you in the ass. I got a real nice aluminum radiator in the basement, I bought it because the price was right, I had cash in hand and I may need it some day. It is US made, and is a quality radiator. Those are few and far between these days.

    Good luck be sure and let us know what you do and how well it works out. ;)
     
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  30. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Without a doubt.
     

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