In late April I purchased a 31 Coupe Banger car and I'm planning on driving it in TROG at Pismo. The car is mostly traditional with a 5 inch chop. The engine wasnt running, due to a failed head gasket. The engine had a few bolt ons such as; Reds 4 into 2 headers, Thomas Dual intake with 81 Strombergs, Lions IV Aluminum head, FSI distributor and an alternator. I removed the head and cleaned up both surfaces, the gasket had failed due to corrosion on the steel ring around cylinder #1. I also noticed the begining of corrosion on the aluminum head. I plan to install a couple of sacrifical annodes in the cooling system. The starter and oil drain plug were missing, so it took a little time to source those. The engine started instantly and idled smothly. The engine sounds fairly quiet internally. I tried to set the timing, but at TDC, it stumbles and coughs. The idle is smoothest at 35 degrees BTDC. I took it for a road test and it ran very rough. The brakes were also pretty scary, but thats another story. I checked the distributor drive to see if the gear was loose, but it appears to be ok. What could cause the timing to like being that far advanced? Could the cam gear be off? The header only has a couple of turnouts just past the firewall. I need to add mufflers, but have found very few photos in my searches.
Cool lookin set up. Check out the monthly banger meet, here on the hamb. The timing could be a few things, maybe points are way off (my fsi has points because screw petronics) or maybe your running too lean. Lean conditions take longer to burn. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I suppose I would try locating TDC with a tool or mechanics wire in the plug hole, then see if the dimple on the gear is close??? Bear in mind that I am not a Model A guru, so I am just assuming the dimple indicates TDC if the gear timing is correct? I sure could be wrong. .
Are you going to keep it like that? That's a cool setup and I'd be interested if not... On another note, I keep seeing "TROG"...what does "TROG" mean? That looks like a great car, I hope you have fun with it.
In the interest of a bump. Does anyone know how pismo is gunna work? Should I bring my 4x4 to cruise to a sand dune to watch the race with my family? Bring my 35 to drive down the beach just for fun? Or will this not be allowed? I haven't been there since I was in college and had a wild time with my dune buggy and a trashy women I found. I can't imagine they are closing down all of pismo. got my tickets and hotel, just want to plan logistics. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
TROG or Bust!!!!!! That looks like a mighty fine steed. Congrats on the purchase. Talk to a couple of F.A.S.T. Guys, they'll be able to figure out that running issue.
In my "Greenness" I assumed that the timing pointer was supposed to line up with a mark on the pulley. Evidently it doesn't do that. I reversed the pointer and set the crank to TDC. I then made my own marks and pointer. They were about 30 degrees away from the other mark. I think the fuel pressure is too high, since there is no regulator. One step at a time, I'll go over each system and figure it out.
need to contact those that are putting it all together about details - first time there will need a learning curve - think that there are rules on who runs - guy I know has the 1952 Oakland Roadster Show winner and he is waiting for approval to enter & run
Toreadorxlt, Were you part of that crew? Since you're familiar with the car, did it ever run well? I saw that video before my car even arrived. It still has a lot of finish welding to do and there is somthing wrong with the windshield, it's hitting the cowl. I plan on dissasembling the roof and windshield a bit and piece it back together.
Cool set-up. Very similar to the A Banger I recently picked up. Found a bunch of trick for the time stuff in the engine. Weights added to the crank and balanced, Bored over, Metal timing gears, High compression cast iron head, verified the non stock (supposed to be 3/4 race) cam. Externally it has a similar intake/carb setup to you and a mallory single point distributor. Seems as I am going backward tuning mine up though. Currently the head is off and the distributor is away for a tune-up at Bubbas ignition. I found excessive fuel in my oil on my 2nd oil change, which I still can't figure out why it happened. Best of luck to you in your build for TROG.
I was one of the two in the video. I was there for the day we roughed the chop out. the car was slammed together in 48 hours to make a show back in the day and many issues were addressed later with many left. It was built to be a hot rod, good enough was how it was. The banger ran well, I personally followed it for a 150 mile round trip from my house and back to another show. I saw it run at TROG last year too with a new owner.
I pulled the oil pan, front and side covers off the engine. I wanted to inspect the cam timing and just look it over. The cam timing was spot on. The crank is a B model and everything looks fresh. I put it all back together and it still ran crappy with huge hesitation. The exhaust consisted of a Red's header and two turn out pipes. This setup is not so cool for tuning in the driveway. I cut off the turnouts and added a couple of short sections of 2 inch pipe. I then added a couple of Smithy's with longer turn outs. I made a couple of test pipes to replace the mufflers at TROG. It is now very quiet at idle and I don't feel guilty revving it in the driveway. I took the carbs apart and although someone had just gone through them, I found a few problems: binding linkage, floats set at 3/4 inch below the top, 30 main jets and the power valves looked physically damaged. I installed 35 mains and new 71 power valves. Set the float to just under 1/2 inch. Now it runs great, idles instantly and has great acceleration with no stumble. I also installed an original 32 grill shell (I just had the radiator filler moved from the top by Matthews in Orange). Next on the list: Replace and reroute the steel brake lines. Install a 4:56 gear set. Install an Albro Aluminum flywheel with 9 inch clutch set. Remove the body and install a new wood mount set with the correct hardware. Remove and reinstall all the body wood, with the correct hardware. Install Guide headlights. Cosmetic clean up and paint.
looks like an A cover, think i remember that the B cover had a flat raised area where the pin was. think i remember that if you use a B cam in an A motor that you need the B cover or the timing will be off. i use the after market pointer and timing tape on my cars, got motor on top dead c. and marked pulley at pointer, now i can time w/lite.
I picked up an old tow bar. Made for the Model A frame out of an old Ford wishbone. The Valley coupler has zero wear.
I also got something a little more traditional to tow it with. Much cooler than my Escalade. I just imported it from Canada.
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