Technical Lets build a 327 to make 400hp

Cast at the foundry that also cast Z=28 intakes, I don't remember the name of the of foundry but they used a snowflake logo. I want to say that they are in SoCal but don't hold me to that.

 

Winters.

 

I am sure you can find an Isky cam with similar specs to the Factory 30-30 cam, or any other one recommended
here. If you want to be able to say you have an Isky cam you can still duplicate the rest of the factory build up.
Remember that the 327 was rated on gross horsepower, not net.

 

Snowflake heads-factory aluminum.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

see the snowflake?

 

If you want some really good heads look for some 461X 327 heads...They make some great power.

 

Going to follow this one. Great start and like the car that you have there. The 327 that is in my Roadster is built like a L76 but with a DZ302 cam. The L76 was advertised as a 365 hp engine. The cam turns on at around 4500 rpm and sets back in your seat. It will rev like crazy. It is real street able with a good sounding idle. Lots of options

Larry

 

That's a good 'un right there-'Visual Horsepower' -luv it

 

Isky had more sense than to grind sb cams on a 112 lsa...

 

Got some info for the OP.
1. The heads are a bit small (valve size), but the open chambers are good for todays gas (don't go over 9:1 CR) and are considered as good as the Camel Hump heads. However with some porting they can flow upwards of 200+ cfm on the intake side but may need to be cut for 2.02/1.60 valves. You'll want some work done on the exhaust ports so you get roughly 75% of that 200 CFM. With a good cam you might get close to the 400 hp. and still have it streetable.
2. Cam-wise, I've always liked Comp or Lunati. Stay under .500 lift or you have to start investing more into the heads than they are worth. Screw in studs, kick up guides and such. If you want a choppy cam, go with a close lobe separation, around 108. Take a look at the Extreme Energy cams (Comp), or they will custom grind one.
3. While going with a manual trans is "cool" I have preferred autos and the TH 350 is not bad. Coupled with the right converter, and rear end gears, I think 3:73's, will give good get up and go and you can still drive on the freeway, and you'll get excellent acceleration. Plus with the auto, you always have the "perfect" clutch.

Just my 2 cents.

 

My truck now has a th350 with a 2600 stall. Its not too bad but my daily is a manual so I used to it and damn how many times I try to push in the clutch on start up in an automatic! haha. Trans, bellhousing and clutch, shifter is going to set me back a bit further money wise but I need to consider fun VS money but thats any build.

My lady has told me from day one on this build "build it right" Not that my truck isnt but it was a budget build and Id probly change a few things had money allowed. As always, thank you guys for the advice. Every time I check the thread its nice to see more and more advice

 

thanks, I've got close to no knowledge about BBC's.....

 

A 327 with an honest 250 hp - 300 hp and a stick shift and 3:90 - 4:11 gears and 27"- 29" tall rear tires in a Model A will be more than enough to make most people take notice. Over 300 hp will just go up in smoke without some intelligent suspension work.

 

Lots of good advice here - keep it simple, use as many of the parts you already have - look to get 350+ HP - you'll have all you need. Most of your power will come from the cam, heads, intake and carb - so spend your time figuring out what you can spend and talk to a lot of folks about it. I've ran both a Duntov 3030 as well as an Isky 280 hydraulic cam - the 280 was a better cam. When I put 1.6 rockers on the intake - even better. If you're not trying to stay "traditional to the 60's", an Edelbrock RPM AirGap is a great manifold - with about a 650+ CFM carb (depending on how high you rev it). You can get your current setup to run, but truth be told - it probably will never match a modern manifold with a good carb - so just consider it in you mix. Also, put a good oil pump in it, make sure you have good (a bit loose) clearances in the rods/mains and you'll be able to spin it quite high. The 327 combination needs to rev to make power - so make sure you've setup the engine as such (if that is your goal). I think a manual trans would be the best, but if you're set on the automatic, then get the right converter to go with it . . . and make sure your rear-end gears allow the motor to rev - as it isn't a torque monster, it is a rev monster.

Good luck!

 

That car's going to weigh less than 2500 pounds- it will FLY with that motor!

And the zoomies will be PERFECT! Ask "Mad Mikey"! He likes it!

Loud pipes save lives ( and you don't need a radio)

 

THE SNOWFLAKE WAS FOR WINTERS FOUNDRY

 

Another approach, TKO 600 with 0.64 overdrive and a 4.30 or 4.56 gear. About any 327 will work well in that car.

Not real traditional on the trans, but not many people see it.

 

Im over here just eyeballing transmissions. Saginaw transmission seem to be a bit cheaper than Muncie transmissions. T10s are too expensive. Ill be at the Kruse auction swap meet this weekend so if I find something which is better? 3spd or 4spd, either one doesnt matter to me but Im trying to think on the practical side.

Cam will probly come from the advice of Isky. Im also thinking Ross Race Engines will have some good advice as well as you guys here. I thank you

 

I have a question about the crankcase breather, while we're on the 327 subject. '67 and earlier 327's had an extra holein the block, beside the distributor hole, that connects to the crankcase breather, that sits under the intake. An elbow, sat in this hole and was connected by a hose, to the carb. I have a '67 block and years ago, when I put an Edelbrock alum intake on it, this breather under the intake was too big to bolt down the intake. I removed this piece and blocked the hole beside the dist with a freeze plug. '68 & up sbc used a PVC breather in the valve cover and this is what I did, too. '67 back didn't have holes in valve covers, so I changed them to covers that had PVC holes Now my question is with this set up, what would I have to do to run valve covers that don't have such holes like old Cal Customs?? Most aftermarket intakes, I've seen through the years, have a 'tent' underneath to divert oil away from the intake bottom and wont clear that breather. I've seen a lot of late model 'crate' motors (and others) with old school valve covers and wonder how it don't turn into an oily, misty mess.....p.s. it was a lot easier back in the day to get real power out of a sbc with with 12:1 and even 13:1 pop-up pistons but today's gas sucks and detonation would kill it

 

I agree with this statement. Grab a Saginaw 3 speed. Dirt track guys use them and parts are readily available, they are cheap, and it will be way funner behind that 327.

Squirrel is correct as usual btw, don't think about the HP number. Pick the rest of the parts you use to work with what you already have, and enjoy driving it. Even 300hp will feel quick in a hot rod like that

 

That is a name I haven't heard in years , beautiful cars.

 

Am a fan of early 327's. Helped a friend build a 55 Chevy. Gave him a std 327 short block and a set of 461X heads. He had Pannella's build the motor. I don't know the specifics or the cost but the heads were heavily redone/ported. It also had a Bullet roller setup and dual 4's. The car was streetable with a 4spd. Friend has it now--the dyno sheets showed 420+ hp at 6200. Car runs really hard when you lean on it!! Really fast and probably weighs 3600. It has 4:11's and he used to drive it to Hot August Nites at 65-70!! It was wound up pretty good but made the trip many times-mileage was about 8 MPG. Ran 109 at Sac with no traction. He now runs an OT 66 Chevelle that has run 8.80's at 140.

 

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/custom-327-engine/
Find this back issue and follow it.

 

X2

 

I must be getting old, I get weak kneed whenever I see a 327 thread.

 

I don't but I am not donkey man and it doesn't sap me to get wood.

There is just something that borders on the spiritual about the Chevy 327 isn't there.

 

Put your hand on the radio and shout hallelujah!
I've never been of the crate motor mindset, but if I read that GM was reintroducing the 350 horse 327, you'd see me camped outside the nearest Chevy dealers' parts dept.

 

I have a question. I always read about keeping the compression ratio under 10:1 to avoid pinging. I understand the more aggressive a cam profile is , the more pressure is bled off at low rpm. That said, I' m running my about 11.0:1 cr 327 on regular pump gas which is 98 octane here. It will run fine on 95 but on a hot day going up a steep hill it will ping. So I use 98. My 355 had pretty much the same setup with 10.5 cr and aluminum heads and it ran perfect on regular (95 oct). Pump Gas is availible up to 105 octane, so my guess is even 12:1 would be manageable. So why is everyone so afraid of CRs over 10:1?

Thanks for clueing me in!

 

Baumi, our regular gas is 87 octane, premium is 92 and almost all of it has 10-15% "other content", usually it's ethanol which draws a lot of water.

 

I'll bring my signature can of beans and be right there with ya on that one my friend.

I still remember when the 350 was neater than sliced bread and the 283s and 327s wee still plentiful, I had 283s floating around me all the time and 327s. I could afford to keep the occasional 283 but the 327 became my unicorn.

I still remember my first 327 car, it was a '57 Wagon I traded for stuffed full of an L-79 and 4 gear. We called it make out mansion and driving it was way more fun than making out.