Technical *** APRIL 2016 BANGER MEET - DON'T BE FOOLED BY SUBSTITUTES ***

It came from dreamworks.model a in North Carolina. He said he balances them. Should I get arp bolts or grade 8 is fine. Or just get fresh bolts from brattons and safety wire them

 

I use grade 8 , but arp are good bolts .

 

Bluto,

Best wishes for the surgery next week, I hear very it works very well now.
Yes, there is supposed to be some sort of containment device, the driver was VERY lucky here. Only brusing, no blood.

J

 

ARP has a flanged bolt that gives more surface contact under the head.
What ever you use, make sure that you have full thread engagement thru the flange of the crank, it is too thin as it is.If you have the crank out, you may consider having some welding done to strengthen the flange in the center.
FWIW, I use 8 bolts.
J

 

Thank you John ....this is the left as the right is already done...... I don't rally see very well right now.

You should also mention to check bolts to see they don't bottom out as with everything else.

 

jimski , sorry about seeing ! I'm almost there , cant see shit in the dark floaters blurr the rest of the time .
I feel your pain ................. steve

 

Crank is in motor. Just trying to give this model b motor some more pep for trog. Have a burns downdraft w 81s for it just need a head now

 

I highly recommend the lion3

 

I have a lion 3 on my touring and don't want to pull it apart. I love the way my touring runs with it. Lions are sold out right now though

 

If memory serves they should be gearing up to do their yearly run sometime relatively soon?

 

I got about 7 weeks to have this car all the way together. I really hate to take a running car apart ro steal n parts off it

 

Best of wishes!

 

Another option is to hit up Tod Buttermore and see if he can get you a reproduction Winfield head in time.

 

I've read in several places that a 7:1 high compression head on a stock motor ruins the bearings? Is this true? If so is it simply due to the higher compression?

 

they can if you get to much timing . jim briely runs more than that on Babbitt I believe . I think a lot depends how you drive it & maintain it .

 

Please remember:
The hardest thing to adjust is the nut behind the wheel.

I do understand the challenge of overcoming the limits imposed by the original designers AND have no problem taking the effort to go faster OR others need to do the same thing. Understand it has it's costs

I have fast stuff and very slow. Some cars you can almost walk faster than drive.

I look at driving our 31 Wagon as driving a 36 hp VW van....... I plan ahead for both going and STOPPING

 

voice of experience right there ............ amen

 

question : ive seen model a hoods with side doors (3) (like chevy) but cant seem to find any . a guy down the street has that type of side panels on his . he bought it that way ............ steve

 

See page 2 http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/C-Grille-Hood-Fender/1930-31-Grille-Hood-Fender.pdf

 

exactly . thanks much ......... steve

 

Rootlieb in Turlock!!

 

Good Morning Fellas. Does anyone on here run a t 5? I have been given an opportunity to purchase a used kit or help sell it. I believe I get first right of refusal. Does anyone still make/sell a kit? I can't seem to locate one, need to come up with a price. It is said to be compete including pedals, clutch, flywheel, tranmission, etc...
For those of you that run one. What do you think? Was it worth it? My thought would be to put it in the T&A Roadster project. This car will already be in the modified class for hillclimbs so why not right? Probably not TROG friendly but chances of making it to a hillclimb are better than TROG and fast shifting really counts there.

 

Jim,

I remember the first time I took Dad's '30 Packard 726 for a "longer drive" on my own (I was about 20 at the time) out to my trumpet teacher's house about a half hour away in Radnor, PA- long story short, I had to panic stop in heavy traffic... that was the first (and last) time I ever felt that beast literally hop down the road with the brakes locked!!!

 

I use one & like it . not sure that they are made anymore .
if you want one , get it ! be sure to keep the clutch disk ! special to the kit . I have had mine relined .
trans sell for like 100$ & like 100$ for the rest ............ JMHO

 

Thanks V4F. Couple hundred would be a deal. I was thinking 3-4 range.
How usable is the 5th gear?
Anyone else have opinions on the subject

 

I us it on 55mph roads . I'm using 3:27 gears & run 55-60 at just under 2k . I like it all around . more splits in town & decent high way speeds . ( you need a little extra power to use 5th)
the wrecking yards are getting 100 - 150 for the trans , the adapter plate & clutch disc are the only other important parts . the pedals I'm not familiar with as I changed to hyds & hung the brake pedal on the firewall . the whole thing is good to have . do not loose the clutch disc . my has been re done twice now . good luck .................. steve

 

I have heard the T5 from the S10 pickup is the desired trans.
it has the shifter mechanism on the front of tailshaft instead of rear.

 

you are correct . mine is like a 1997 s-10 pickup trans . plus an open drive shaft . nice to pull the drive shaft with out all the rest .

 

This came out of a running driving proven car. For mobility issues he had to go automatic. So at least I know it goes together

 

While most causal lookers are most impressed with an 8000 RPM tack in a banger equipped car, it wasn't real practical. Bit the bullet and ordered a Classic Instruments SoCal Series tack reprogramed for 4000 RPM with a new face. When I ran on the dyno, my peak HP at the rear wheels was 60 at 3200 RPM.