Projects continental star speedster build

This January I picked up a pile of 1927 star parts and 3 continental four bangers. I looked the parts over in the sellers storage unit but it was 17° out and I didn't want to be out any longer than I had too. A deal was struck and we loaded up my '66 Dodge and I was on my way.

I have decided to build a speedster to give these old parts new life. The plan so far is quarter elliptical front suspension, parallel leafs for the rear, a little aluminum body with staggered seating to give the driver more elbow room and possibly a boat tail.

A pic for inspiration.

Last weekend my good friend sixtyford came over and we started laying out some parts to get an idea of what the frame needed to look like. So naturally we started by making a mock-up grille. Here are some pics of the progress so far.

One thing to notice is the continental engines star used don't actually have a bell housing. The clutch is piloted by a groove in the outside edge of the flywheel and is connected to the transmission by a rubber ujoint thing. The whole thing relies on frame stiffness to keep good alignment. This will definitely have its own unique complications.

 

I am hoping to run friction dampers on both axles. Sixtyford and I discussed some possible ways to make them progressive, has anyone ever heard of such a thing? What material is usually used for the friction part of the dampers? I figured the basic frame and arms can be cut from steel plate.

Any one care to share pics of quarter elliptical front suspension with friction dampers NOT used as a locating link? Pic stolen from elsewhere on the internet to illustrate what I am talking about.

 

Thoughts about the grille

I am toying with the idea of making a grille from scratch out of stainless. I am really quite partial to the shape of the front of this Sanford



While digging around for information on friction dampers I stumbled upon this unknown grill from this fellows blog. https://nigelhamlinwright.wordpress.com/category/vintage-motoring/

The honeycomb radiator is a nice touch that I doubt I would be able to replicate, I will have to settle for some kind of wire mesh I think.

Whatever the case I need to leave a hole because I plan on retaining the hand crank starter.

 

This will be fun to watch!

 

I'm in, Speedsters, in my mind, were some of the first Hot Rods.

 

I'm in l love speedsters. The more odd the bits the better. I've had this book l think 30 years always thought they were the cat's meow. My grandfather built one back in his day, probably around 1920. Have fun

Sent from my SPH-L710 using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Hey Man,
Any update? Did you get the width issue at the bell housing figured out?

 

No real progress besides some scribbles on the old drawing board. I did measure the foot room on our fiat 500 as well as a set of pedals from an Austin America so I think I have a baseline for the minimum space required. I am thinking about mounting a brake lever on the outside of the cowl.

Unfortunately a certain 87 T-bird is taking up most of my shop. Gotta pay the bills somehow I guess.

 

Thanks for the page you posted, would you mind sharing the name of the book?

I grew up fascinated by all the specials and speedsters in the pages of the the old automobile encyclopedias my parents bought mail order.

 

Hey buddy,
Did you do anything with that pile of tubing that was delivered? Besides pile it in a corner

 

Oh yeahhhh!!!.....this is going to be a fun build....I'm totally into speedsters, and this is a bit different....man, this gonna be cool!

 

No that would have been completely rational, instead I striped my band saw.

 

Well just to prove I am still working on this thing I am going to share a few pics of the motor disassembly.


The pistons came out easy, the bores are still round and there doesn't seem to be a ridge.



When I got the rod caps off I got a surprise, full pressure oiling!


And a hint at something that has been rattling around my brain for a while...

 

Hey, Burkedore;
"What material is usually used for the friction part of the dampers?"
The old-timers used leather.
In the 60s'/70's & even today, lots use rubber sheet.
What works best, is rubber conveyor belting,(~ 3/8" thick) as it won't squeeze out like like the thin rubber/plastic sheeting that Total Perf -type shocks used. Couple of guys I know cut correct-sized discs out of the conveyor belting, & some just dust it w/baby powder on both sides to help w/the initial break-in, tighten the bolt up in a trial n error to get good reaction, & are happy. Lasts a long time.
FWIW.
Marcus...

 

For a honeycomb radiator effect, you can buy a mesh that has the appearance. It is made for antique cars that have had modern radiators installed.

http://helixracingproducts.com/inde...tor-guards/honeycomb-aluminum-mesh-18x18.html

 

Watching that one as I've been collecting parts for such a build for many years.

 

Thanks for the tip. I think I will make up some with leather and with rubber belting and see what I like the best. I have also been thinking about McMaster part no. 5753K432.

 

I like that, thanks for the link.

 

I have a honeycomb radiator I'd let go. Got it for my speedster project, but wound up going another direction. It's cool as hell--entirely made of copper! PM me if interested.

 

Well after three different job changes in 2016 I am finally working somewhere that leaves me with enough spare time to start back up on this project.

Last week I got some 4x4 .125 wall box tubing and split it down the middle to make two 2x4 c channels. This should make for a nice stuff but lightweight frame. I am hoping to come in at about 1000 lbs without driver. But before I go any further than mocking up the frame rails I need to make sure I know how much room I need for a comfortable seat.



I made up a pattern for the bottom of the seat. My plan is to make a staggered side by side bucket bench seat thingy. I want to make the whole think out of aluminum. While I could Tig weld it together I thought I would go for a slightly more aesthetically pleasing solution. Rivets!

I started with a test panel to make sure I liked the spacing and got all the folds in The right order and orientation.





On the right is the pop rivet tool, the pop rivets arejust used to hold the panels together so I can insert the solid rivets. Clecos would be really helpful right now. On the left is the rivet squeezer I am using to set the 1/8 aluminum rivets. Below is the final result. I am glad I made the test joint because I didn't actually have enough room for the squeezer on half the holes.

 

Where did you get your rivet squeezer?

 

Hand Rivet Squeezers

JA...I saw a cheaper set but my Misses has a saying buy cheap buy twice...There is also Amazon, Ebay etc.
Burke will chime I just happened into this...
The set below is Aviation grade and will last a lifetime and perform its duty flawlessly.




http://www.yardstore.com/air-capital-hand-squeeze-riveting-kit.html

another cool set includes bench mount and a couple videos to familiarize you with using them...
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=5022-DX

​

 

Can't wait to see more! Gary

 

So what was the issue with room Burke? In aviation sometimes we must grind off things a little to allow clearance to get on rivet at 90 degrees. If the dome snap is not high enough as in tool is fouling with the flange you can space the set down with spacer washers...It is very good to do the test piece as you are...

 

The rivet is too close to the bend not allowing my to center the tool. I could grind the head a little but I think changing the part a little will work better.

 

http://www.browntool.com

It's the "economy" model. Pretty good for the price. If I were building an airplane I would definitely but the real thing though.

 

If you have room on your actual part to layout the hole away from the wall or flange that is a good option...if you really have to put it in that location grinding the tool carefully is an option and if its the rivet set itself you can buy smaller diameter ones or grind them as well.

 

Thanks guys. It's probably a good idea we don't build airplanes on this site, we have enough problems building stuff that stays on the ground. Lol
Didn't mean to hijack the thread!

 

I only got as far as drilling one side of the seat panel tonight.

For those who are wondering what the finished seat will look like, I am making the panels to resemble an armchair. something like this.

 

Really I am just being fussy. The side of the set was leaving dents on what will be the seat back. Nothing adding 1/8" won't fix.