Projects 400 Small Block Chevy Engine!

I have an engine in my car already. I am putting this engine together on the side as a project so I can have my time devoted to the new engine and my car. I've got plan. PROMISE!!

 

Wow man! I appreciate everything!! Lots of infomation on stall speed! Thank you!!

 

Well since he's already said he's going to run a stick, the "Stalls" old news... If I read correctly your 16 rite? Seriously, take the engine apart(an there's an art to that alone!) Read the book mentioned for guidance, At 16 You Need to "cut your teeth" on the fundementels of a
Rebuild, I would recommend sending a decent set of stock heads out for a valve job, (at your age I had Know idea about spring psi., installed hieght etc.) Money well spent here, send block out if it's usable(shop will check this) possibility a re-ring, cast standard pistons are cheap, Notice cheap is the word here, pick a cam/intake, I like old Carter/Edelbrock for ease an simplicity (Holly, how much do you know about power valves an back fires?) Basically You could have a Fun engine running strong for $15-1800. Realistically ! And build this engine Your gathering information on this thread After You have Successfully pulled of what I speak of here, No one builds the "Ultimate" engine you want there first time around brother! Trust me, A Wiseman is only a fool with a good memory..

 

Yes I am 16. I know! I work in a Hot Rod Shop. I work part time there and before that, worked at a performance shop in the next city over. Worked full time there and learned a lot about taking the engine apart and how to put things back together. Really was a different experience. I didn't think I'd fall in love with it so easily to be honest!! I don't know if you were here in the last thread or not, but my father is very astute when it comes to the automotive world. He has had an Oldsmobile 442 that he's been working on for a few years now. I know that time is one of the biggest factors in a project. Especially on one this big! But I feel that part of the experience of growing up and becoming wiser is to have fun and spend money on things we love doing! So that's what I am doing. So with all of that said... xD ... Can you tell me about power valves? what do I need to know? "Back fires" out of the tail pipe?

 

Its not really clear if you are planning to take this car to the track once in a while and thinking in terms of running low 12's high 11's with it (pretty easy to do with a 406 in a light car), but if you are, there are some things you need to know about drag racing a stick with slicks or sticky dot tires...

Theres a lot of big talk on here about how automatics are for girls and so on, with a couple exceptions (you know who you are, racer X) most of that talk is coming from guys that aren't drag racing their cars. I strongly suggest you try to find someone local to you with an automatic car that runs 11's, and really politely ask him if he can take for a ride, and explain why. There is a WORLD of difference at WOT between an 11 second street car with a 4.10 or 4.56 rear gear and a 3500/4000 stall converter, and your granddads 305 auto Caprice, or even a typical 14 second car.
Talk to people WHO KNOW, and who are ACTUALLY DOING this. Invisible kid knows, Rory428 knows, mad Mikey knows, Squirrel knows, Racer X knows and can tell you about drag racing a stick. Theres a lot of guys that will willingly tell you stuff about running a 10,11 or 12 second car on the street that dont know bugger all about it.
Drag racing a fast stick car on sticky tires sounds glamorous, but I can tell you, you WILL break shit (expensive shit) sorting it out, and there is a very steep learning curve. Its not really clear what you have in mind, but if 11 second time slips figure into it, I STRONGLY suggest you start with an auto.

 

Dont mean to imply there arent others on here that know whats involved in running a fast street car, just the guys I mentioned are guys that I KNOW know. Oh yea, and Mbog knows too.

 

Please tell me your not planning to run a 400/stick in a certain japanese made sports car from the seventies and drag race it. If you are, you will need AAA for the ride home...

 

I don't want a drag car. My intentions with my project car is to be able to drive it when I want on the streets. Powerful, don't get me wrong, but I don't want a drag car. That is not my intentions with it.

 

Just to reiterate here.
The OP will vouch for me on this, his first thread on this subject got pulled because of too much talk of his HAMB "unfriendly" car. He's already stated he wants to focus on his engine of choice and not bring too much attention to the car.

 

Then you might be ok with the stick, as long as you take it easy on launches and dont run a sticky tire.

I kinda figured that, but its important that we mention it, if he puts a 400 and a stick in front of the diff that comes in "that car thats name shall not be spoken" and puts anything stickier than T/A's on the back, that diff is gonna puke its guts faster than a 14 yr old that has just discovered beer...
There, I fixed it...

 

Yeah thank you DDDenny! Sorry, got off-topic.

 

Oh, by the way! buying a new rear end... The Moser M9 I think!! Great price for what it gives!!! and a dynotech drive shaft

 

Thanx for the briefing, An no I hadn't seen the other thread, Building Your first engine is a Very empowering feat, I did my first at 15 by myself an tool's barrowed from Hi school, ridge reamer,hone, an tourqe wrench, an Manuel.. Even got to drag race it once I could drive... Still have the trophy )

 

A 14 year old puking after beer, that's traditional!

 

This could be good, BUT:

1) They said a crate 400 hasn't been available in 50 years?????

2) Who really casts this block.....and blueprint puts their label on it?

3) i'll put it on the table and i'm not slamming Blueprint, but i've read many, too many negative comments regarding their quality.
Again, not putting them down at all and wanting to remain open-minded, but at this point i would feel much more comfortable going with a GM zz383 or 383 HT for about the same money.

 

What happened to the other thread? There was some good information in it, especially for a beginner.

 

What have you heard about them??

 

If I were going to buy a new block for a street/strip 400, I'd just buy a Dart HSP...

 

Don't know but they claim 100% USA made. I haven't seen one in person.
http://www.blueprintengines.com/ind...eprint-engines-launches-new-400ci-engine-line

 

One other thing, when you do a 400, using a torque plate to hone it is an absolute MUST. A lot of guys will figure this is a must anyway, but on a 400 its critical, the head bolts are really close to the bores and the decks arent super thick, they distort a LOT when you pull the head bolts down.

 

We love our Dart Block and will not go back to a stock Chev for a 400. The nice thing is using a 350 crank everything can be off the shelf and strong. For iron heads look to EQ's especially the C350H for bare or HA's for assembled. Good luck

 

Yo don't need to drill steam holes in the stock 400 heads, only when you switch to heads from a small block that has the water jackets between the cylinders. I didn't think anyone made this clear.

 

I like the EQ's too, good head, but I would run something bigger on a 400. Same thing applies to the Vortecs. Good head for a mild 327 or 350, but outside their envelope on a 400. 170 cc intake port, thats a ballpark 1.9 csa, that will choke around 5200 on a 406. Even a mild 400 needs at least a 200cc intake port, I would lean towards 210.
Its not just the ci, the shorter rod plays to a bigger head too, the piston moves away from tdc quicker, so there is no problem generating port velocity early in the pistons motion. Good head for a 327 or mild 350, but 170cc a port will choke really early on a 400.

 

falcongeorge just made a very very good point! The 400 loves the bigger heads, and a little bigger header to go with it.

 

What about the AFR heads? Heard many things about them... Good and bad. Thinking 190cc competition heads. Could bump it up to 195/200 but no more. I want it to run smooth on the street.

 

AFR's are good heads, but I would go bigger than that. I am putting 195's on the motor in my truck, its a 355, it'll make peak power around 6400. You put those heads on a 400, that will move down to around 58/5900. I guess its sorta maybe ok, but you are leaving a bunch of power on the table with a 2"ish CSA on a 406, and running a bigger head into the 210/220 cc range will not hurt streetability ONE BIT on a 400. In fact, taken on balance, if you run the bigger head, you can make more power at the same rpm with less intake duration, and compared to the 195 with a slightly bigger cam, it will be MORE streetable. This is what I am doing on the makeover on my truck, I am going from a 170cc port with a 1.92 CSA to the AFR 195's with a CSA a little over 2", and backing up on the intake duration by 5 degrees and tightening the LSA 2 degrees. The net result should be more torque between the torque and HP peaks due to increased cylinder pressure, 30-40 more hp at the same peak rpm with a 5 degree shorter cam, and a slightly better idle.
Go over to Speedtalk, and do some searches there on 400's, especially look for posts by Tony Mamo and Joe Sherman on 400's. Larry Meaux too.
And BUY VIZARDS BOOK. Just DO IT. read the stuff by Vizard, and the stuff on Speedtalk, and you will start to be able to separate the wheat from the chaff for yourself.

 

Now there is a name to study.................

 

Heres a good thread for you. Note that most everyone is saying 210/220ish, these are mostly professional engine builders. Tony Mamo was the cylinder head R&D guy at AFR at this time...This is the guy you want to listen to, not someone in sales...
http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13216&start=15

 

Man, while I am typing this, I am listening to an interview with Harold Bettes, he just said "following a logical, analytical approach, instead of what your brother-in-law says..." I thought "Boy, now THAT is apropros to what I am typing right now!!"

 

Why would it give a better idle. I'd think that it would "Chu-Chunk" (Be rougher) on the the idle. I'll look them up!!