Technical *** MARCH 2016 BANGER MEET - MORE DAYLIGHT TO WORK ON BANGERS! ***

I've got a brass timing gear on mine.

Sent from my SM-G900T using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I have the bronze gears from Dan McEachern. Here is his e-mail address [email protected]

Sorry that I don't have a better picture, but they are great quality. I also used the newer style nut.

 

Dan McEachern also made my aluminum gear .

 

Not to sound like a commercial, I will just comment that you will not find a Better Gear set than Dan McEachern supplies for concentricity and consistent backlash.

Just my opinion, John

 

I will say that I got the cam drive gears for my Dodge from Dan. While I was upset with how long it took to get them, the quality could not have been better. First rate work.

 

john , I know your into racing which is much more tech . degreeing the cam & all you do to prepare to go racing is more important than a street motor
who made your gears ?

 

Good question, I have them made for me special. All steel, straight cut teeth, narrower than stk and I make a bushing timing adjustment arrangement for them. So far so good, even on the big dia cams and heavy valve springs (bout .56 lift or more).

I have used Dans (bronze) in the flathead race motor with the big cam and about .430 lift with big springs with no issues.

Rich, Rome wasn't built in a day. Specials can be a bear to get right the first time. It is easier if you have two gear hobbs, this way the PD can be adjusted on each one without re-setting up the machine.
I just started a set of DOHC cam blanks and had them gun drilled today. Off to the chip making machine tomorrow.

John

 

OK thanks, that is confirmation of the exact same noise in mine that goes away when the engine reaches operating temp.

 

Dan is who I got mine from as well

Sent from my SM-G900T using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Just picked up a '30 Model A with a warmed up banger. Seller said his uncle put in a "3/4 Race" Cam and High Compression cam in addition to what's in the picture. Planning on dropping the pan and inspecting everything I can. After that a rebuild on the carbs, fresh fluids, and detail/clean it all up.

 

I also have a new low pressure Carter and Malpassi "Filter King" filter/regulator. Carb set-up is direct linkage, not progressive. Not sure if that's good or bad on the Banger. With the intake Can I go progressive?

 

No progressive on a banger it is set up correctly the way it is. I bet if you study the intake for a little bit you will see why. Nice score and you will have fun I bet

 

Good question, I have them made for me special. All steel, straight cut teeth
less drag . it seems you and I race a lot alike . 1st on parts is safety ... then what ever will go fast for my budget ....

 

Yeah, that is what I was thinking. The offset makes running progressive a nogo/ Oh well just have to learn to work the pedal I guess. Running a compression test tomorrow, we'll see how that goes. Planning on a ton of reading in the links for tips and tricks without asking repeatedly answered questions. To be 100% honest, I intend on dropping in a 8BA later on, but I'll have fun with the banger for a while. I'll tweak and tune and get it running as best and as cheap as I can until that time comes.

 

Rich, Rome wasn't built in a day. Specials can be a bear to get right the first time. It is easier if you have two gear hobbs, this way the PD can be adjusted on each one without re-setting up the machine.
I just started a set of DOHC cam blanks and had them gun drilled today. Off to the chip making machine tomorrow.

John[/QUOTE]Yes. I have cut enough metal to know it takes time. I also got steel, straight cut teeth. Both cam and crank. I had a different guy make just the cam gear for my Plymouth banger. That is what I am using as a comparison. Dan took ten times as long and charged twice as much. But he is still cutting gears and the guy who did my Plymouth is not.

 

Rich, sorry to hear the time/cost issue, I do understand the issues.
I like Dan's work, lets just hope that he is planning on sticking around doing it.
My biggest bug right now is getting my hands on a OD grinder and building up a servo drive to grind cams.

John

 

Progressive? OK I am missing something..... Is only one carb hooked up?

 

I'm digging what looks like adjustable main jets on the Stromberg carbs. I'd like to know more.

 

jim1932-I was thinking of one of the set-ups that run off one carb until a certain pedal position like on on a V engine manifold layout. Both carbs are hooked up and connected.

winduptoy-I don't know much about those jets yet. I was looking at Stromberg rebuild stuff and I found similar ones on Speedway and Vintage Speed's web sites. Once I get on the rebuild I'll see how they work.

 

I also use and recommend Dans Gears in my own engines and like most the old school guys drill normally 4 extra holes for 3° + 6° Retard and 3° and 6° Advance
I know some of you go 4 and 8 but I find 3 and 6 normally gets me on the money

 

This is my Banger---Snyder 5.5 head, B-distributer, modified intake manifold--Holly 847 carb

 

Looks good Bob. How does she run?

 

I runs great!!!! I put 20 miles in the chassis and a plastic chair last summer---did not have a body yet here is my post---link
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/poor-boy-hotrod.1007114/

 

Jim! What happened.....You didn't get into any of that Polish Vodka, did you?

 

Just put the new injectors in and heated up the Bonneville motor.
timing is about 5° ATDC to control idle speed (1500 revs) 116 octane fuel

I am deaf now.......

 

on the warmed up motors, what kind of #'s are you getting for compression . my motor , warm but closed throttle plates .... 125# . is this even close to where it should be ?
.060 over , ross pistons , "B" type cam . it has always been $125 straight thru ...... thanks

 

man that's hard on an old racer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! very nice combo

 

working out of town at the moment still a fue things to before the hotrod dirt drags in June

Sent from my SGH-I317M using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Fellas I need some good advice. I have a model B motor with a 6:1 original Winfield head, Winfield touring cam, Hallock header, flat cap Mallory distributor, a Riley 2x2 intake, and 2 Stromberg 97's. The Stromberg 97's both have standard 45 jets and 71 power valves (65's are standard). The banger starts and idles great, and runs fantastic to around 2200rpm then misses and runs terrible. Can't rev past 2200rpm, it's like it's on rev limiter.

I've swapped out the carbs with a couple of Holley 94's I have, same as before. I've swapped out the distributor with my spare model B dizzy with modern points and cap, same as before, I've swapped coil also, no dice. I'm running an AC type stock mechanic fuel pump that I assume is working as it pump out juice at idle no problem. I am stumped, and have run out of options. The only things I can think of that might have something to do with the problem are either an intake/exhaust gasket leak, or a back pressure issue with the exhaust?

I'm running a straight through 2-1/2 inch pipe from the Hallock header. I have a home-made baffle in it but it has NO wadding wrapped around it. How important is exhaust back pressure on these motors?

 

did you check timing ?