Happy Thanksgiving all! Working on the truck this weekend, and have a couple of questions: - Tried to remove rear hubs, but they are stuck good. Hammered the crap out of the puller, but they still won't pop loose. Suggestions? Heat? Bigger hammer? - Is there an easy way to get the bed off the frame? Looks like rear fenders first, then bed? - Are the leaf springs in a "neutral" state when unloaded (truck jacked up by frame) or will they jump to a neutral position when I take out the shackle bolts? Worried it might be difficult to get them back on. First, I need to drive down about 30 miles to the next city to get a Christmas tree. See how it feels on the freeway. Cheers!
Jeff, Check out this thread. This is how I removed the springs on my wagon. Low cost, simple, and safe. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/re-visiting-the-very-cheesy-1-79-spring-tool.646689/ '32 springs are curved, so it's extra tricky. Here is what I did. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141993
Couple things. 1. Great truck and I love the direction you are taking it. 2. the autopulse is a 2 psi max, so would probably be fine with no regulator. They are very noisy. If you want to sell it, I am looking for a spare for my rig. so keep me in mind. 3. A good way to loosen the hubs off the axle when the puller doesn't work is to loosen the axle nut a little bit and drive around the block. I've had to do this on a model A before. I have the K.R. Wilson puller as well and it wouldn't budge it.
@jerseyboy Great information, thank you. I really like that method. Looks nice and "controlled" @Hitchhiker Glad you like the direction. I'm movin' slow, but I'm movin. I'm following a few others here and trying to "repair" rather than "restore". I've been holding off on the "drive around the block" method. I had heard from a couple of others that it could really F-up the keys or key slots...
Thanks, Tuck. It's fun, and even a bit challenging. If I push it too far on the pinstripes they run right off. Re-striping wouldn't be as cool as saving them to me.
I think it will be fine. I would not be worried if it was mine. I would,be more scared of screwing up the axle threads when you the puller. It's worked for me with no damage on multiple occasion. Don't got hot rodding it. Go slow. It the turning that does it. Pops them right off. You'll hear it. I barely made it out of the driveway.
Ran with the hood today. Needed some lumber for a project and it was raining. My air cleaner is still not assembled, so I just put on the hood. With no wiper or lights, I just used a towel to dry the windshield whenever I stopped. The narrow bias plys make the drive fun!
I'm still working on pulling together the parts I want. The heads turned out to need too much work, so I'm back in the hunt for heads as well. My signature shows the big bits I need. I also need to figure out exhaust (I have a couple of ideas) and shocks (keep going back and forth between tube and lever) BUT, I've got a remodel going on a small room of the house that's going to take most of my time through the holidays, so I think the truck will have to wait to get any real work done. I'll still be looking for parts to do the work, just holding off on the work itself.
I saw that one. I asked him some questions about it. Not sure my generator would fit in the stock location without bumping into the front Strom.
Quick question...will this '32 BW Overdrive unit and rear axle work in my '34 pickup? Anybody know what the new ratio would be? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1932-Ford-O...intage-Race-Car-Borg-Warner-R10-/201397843971
That's an earlier '32 unit with the unsupported pinion. It will work, but it won't be as strong as your '34 unit. The length of the torquetube will be too short on the '32 unit. You will need to lengthen the TT. The wishbones are also unique to the early '32 and will need to be obtained if they don't come with that ebay rearend. But, the width of the unit and the rear spring are the same as your '34.
I've got three of those odrives in a torque tube,paid 700$ each,that's a lot of money for what's there.
I will try and post a pic today. We got a little snow last night, but it ought to be gone by later in the day. But as a teaser, the block is a 59A, dual Strombergs on a Sharp manifold, Fenton headers, 4" Merc crank, adjustable lifters, Howard cam, and a crab-style distributor. Very little chrome, and shaved stock heads with some port and polishing work instead of the shiny new aluminum heads often seen on hop up builds. We wanted the motor to appear more "industrial" than have much bling on it, thinking "It is better to be discovered than announced." Too many motors (and cars) these days look like cliches, as if the owner went through the Speedway catalog and picked one of every possible dress up piece they could find. No thanks I'll post a pic. Promise.
Jeff, I haven't seen this thread since you first posted it. I have to say the truck looks awesome!! And the video of you driving it down the road...cool! What's the top speed for it? Can you go 65? Paul
Also waiting for pics... I am on the same path, except using a pre 48 Edelbrock regular dual intake with the 97`s, a L100 cam and an original 32 generator mounted fan. No plans to shine up the outside of the pickup and going out of my way to use original parts.
Nice! I'm still trying to find pre-50 parts for my engine. I'm staying with 6V pos ground. Generator in stock location. Interesting idea on using iron heads...might have to consider. Looking forward to the pics for inspiration. Thanks, Paul! Per my iPhone speed app, I have reached speeds up to 50mph. I don't have a tach yet, but once I do, I'll be able to see how fast I'm running and can see if I can push a bit more. I'm considering a Mitchell OD unit for easier freeway driving. I don't think I've seen your pickup, have you posted it?