TECH: Ultimate T-5 Article

Hey guys, I just built a world class unit for my friend, and it had the the rear mount shifter, with a mechanical spedo on it.
I put the front shift tailhousing on it, and now the speedo gear flat on the shaft is about a inch to far forward.
Can I get a world class shaft that will locate the speedo back a inch ?
Thanks

 

There's a couple of ways to do it search it and you can see pictures and details. You don't have to buy a new shaft. You shim the gear to your shaft.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/t5-tailshaft-swap-for-dummies-with-pictures.280529/
This is one way post #14. The other way I saw was shimming and JB weld.

Another one
http://www.inliners.org/Jack/T5tech.html

One more
http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?6,18591

 

I make split sleeves that I tack weld onto the output shaft. The one pictured is an s10 electronic speedo output shaft. I have done them on all types of t5's to swap to an s10 mechanical speedo tail housing.

 

Whoa pretty slick.

 

Is this a Chevy bolt pattern T5?

Guy says it's a 1995 S10 T5

I don't have a pic of the front either, but have asked him to send one....

 

Think I answered my own question....

Chevy bolt pattern would have wider bolt pattern resulting in ears...

 

Chevy s-10 yes, but the front is what they call "ford" pattern. GM started that in '93. Its probably a wold class, but need odd ball bell housing.

 

If going to a flathead, Gary at Cornhusker's hot rods can get the correct adapter.

 

It's for sale locally.... Cheap

 

It will probably have low 1st gear since it was in a s-10 4cyl.

 

Pete, an AMC bellhousing would make that work with a Chevy.

 

Awesome, thanks for the replies and quick responses...

 

So I found this one on craigslist and I was wondering if this might work for my 31 coupe behind a SBC. I've read most of this post, but I'm not sure why this one would or not. It's a WC which I didn't think they made for S-10's. Is it the gearing that's not good? Running a 3.0, 9" rear. Thanks, great thread. Here's the link. http://delaware.craigslist.org/pts/5398220084.html

 

Pete if it has a 7 1/8" input shaft and the later ford bolt pattern, there is a guy on here, named INLINE, who makes and sells T-5 adapters to all types of bell housings. His S-10 adapter comes drilled for the Chevy and the Ford bolt pattern. His prices are cheap than whats out there, quality is good, and shipping is timely. I am very happy with mine.

Forgot to mention he has an AD in the "Parts for Sale Forum"

 

I'll take a look....
Appreciate that.

 

CcxgD .;2

 

Adapting a S10 T5 to a 59AB flathead.. This is the Speedway kit. I put the sleeve on the shaft and the bearing slid right on just fine. I reused the stock '47 release fork and shaft but when the bearing moves back far enough, it could spin around with very little resistance from the fork. The bearing is hitting on the fork on the edge of the bearing. Has anyone else ran into this problem? Is there an aftermarket fork that will solve this issue or will I have to grind down the fork where the bearing rests on once back all the way? (pencil is pointing to problem area in second picture)

This is the best comprehensive guide of T5 tech I've found anywhere on the internet. Thank you for compiling all of this information, Ernie! I just can't find the answer to my dilemma in here..

 

Texasspeed,
I may be wrong, but wouldn't the fork be further forward when installed against the clutch? Perhaps you need to mock it up.

On second glance, is it possible the fork is on backwards? It's not making good contact with the pads.

 

You're correct. The fork legs should be resting against the bearing notches but it's not. The fork is actually mounted just like it was on the original transmission. I measured both the stock '47 transmission and the Speedway adapter and the shaft is where it should be. The retaining spring pulls the bearing back far enough that the legs of the fork come off the bearing and the edge of the bearing rests against a lower part of the fork.

This is the complete kit from Speedway so I'm not sure what's going on here. I'll be contacting Speedway soon to see what they have to say about this.

 

I'm thinking that you can take up that slack with adjustments of your clutch linkage. In other words, you lengthen the linkage until the fork moves forward to touch the TO bearing.

 

Real good info here. 1 hour each on a mustang WC t5
#1

#2

 

You're correct. After consulting some of the more experienced guys in the shop and looking at the linkage.. It appears the actuating arm is far enough "forward" that the pedal when not depressed will hold the fork forward and the bearing will remain in place. I went ahead and buttoned up the transmission today.. We will see when I take it out for its test drive.

Thanks!

 

OK... I know there is a ton of info on this all over the place on the internet... maybe that is the problem... information overload!
Can anyone give me this simple information?

I am fitting a World class S10 T5 to a 1955 235ci stovebolt with 12v flywheel and 10" clutch. I am not running an adapter/spacer between the box and bellhousing and I am using the original 235ci pressure plate and realease bearing.

All I want to know is what 10" clutch can i use with this set up? A supplier, part number anything... I am in the UK so don't want to order the wrong one obviously.

Thanks in advance
Tim

 

read this; it may answer your question.http://www.trifive.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-111689.html

 

Can anyone give me the dimensions of a GM T5 front bearing/input shaft retainer, I need the OD where it fits in the bell housing and the OD on the shaft where the clutch release bearing carrier runs, and what car it is from !
thanks
Dave

 

Excellent info in this thread!!

Thanks to all

 

Ive heard about 300 ft lbs of tourque. I got on behind my 359 crate motor in my 57 chevy pickup, Racing no but tows my 55 gasser on the car hauler and I baby it along. Got on in my modified 4 banger model A and its a blast drives like a Ot sorry,miata. I would thing on a light street rod they would do ok but you know abuse anything and it'll break. I think the world class would be the way to go if you got a hotter motor. PS by the way prices seem to be going up on these things due to them getting scariness.

 

Contrary to popular belief, these transmissions are not weak. Sure, if you are an idiot, you can break anything.

These transmissions were rated for load by Borg Warner when they were made. Some have interpreted this to mean that this is the shock-load. It is not. These ratings are for continuous load. All day, every day.

The lowliest of the low T5's is rated at 265lb.ft. Now remember, that is not shock load, that is continuous load.

Are you running 265lb.-ft. at your cruise RPM?

The reputation for being weak comes from a combination of guys getting a used one, in poor condition, and breaking it, people driving like idiots, and Fox-body Mustang guys running 500lb.-ft. of torque through one, heading out to slicks.

If they sucked as bad as some of you claim, they would not only not have ended up being made in over 260 versions, and installed in everything from An S10, to a Mustang, to a Camaro, to industrial equipment, over a longer than 20-year manufacturing run, they would have been ordered recalled by the government.

 

Had the stock one in an OT 5.0 mustang raced it every weekend weather permitting used M&H drag radials and launched at 3500 and Power shifted. Never a problem with it.