I've had all of my WCFB's apart. Some had the springs under the accelerator pump and others did not. The spring under the power piston indeed does hold the metering rods in the Jets and for a small amount off ez driving idle; but there is an arm that you set with a screwdriver the forces the metering rod actuating level up under more throttle no mater what the vacuum. I believe the vacuum helps pull the metering rods back down more than any thing. I've tried minor adjustments in the setting of the adjusting arm to improve fuel milage but they seem to be the best as the factory sets them. There are different stepped metering rods too.I like them anyway and am going to keep them... Good Luck.
According to page #5 of this manual, http://www.carburetor-blog.com/manuals/wcfb_manual.pdf ...the primary metering rods are both mechanically and vacuum controlled. If there is any vacuum control at all I'd think there would still be a spring used under the power piston.
Yes Clay, the vacuum piston spring is under the power piston, the car hadn't been started in 3yrs and im not sure when last driven, but when I purchased it I set about getting her started and it ran quite well, unable to take it for a test drive as there were no pedal brakes, so no idea how the carb would have been on a run. There is a spring on the throtle linkage (see pic) so maybe that's why there is no spring under the pump. Thanks Jimmy, feeling better about leaving the pump spring out now, but definitely want that vacuum one reinstated, I won't much though about how it's working until I get her out on the street for a test drive. Cheers for the link Clay.
Got it running after sitting for 3 yrs, and with the carb how the PO left it. Then the carb started acting up Flooding
...or excessive fuel pressure. Or a sunk float. Or a piece of flotsam (or jetsam) stuck in the needle and seat. Or a sticking float or needle and seat. Or gremlins. Or a loose seat. You should also pull the plugs and spin the engine over with the coil disconnected to clear the fuel out of the cylinders before attempting to start the engine again. And maybe change the oil too as it's probably diluted with gasoline. Or petrol, if you prefer.
sometimes if the carb base gaskets are to thin the linkage will hit the manifold on yhe passenger side
Many thanks guys...sincerely appreciated. I will say that i'm surprised it ran at all with the old fuel and the amount of crap inside the carb, since the first start I have rebuilt the fuel pump also which was in a mess too, and fresh PETROL in the tank... The carb is still sitting in my living room for now, waiting until I get a Vacuum spring, so until then I wont know how the rebuild has gone until it's all back together and I fire her up. I'll post back with the results.
Some good information. I'm about to do a 62 corvette WCFB swap on my .40 over 241 hemi. with an Offenhauser intake. Will see how that goes. I know hemi's respond good to intake and carb swaps.
Just so you guys know I have an extensive Carter inventory, NOS stuff that I am constantly adding to. Carter is anal about individual carbs, thousands of bits and pieces, each was specific to the engine it sat on. I might have the odd piece if you need it. Most of my inventory is '30's thru very early '50's - pre AFB stuff. Shoot me a PM if there is something I can help you with.
Regarding the 'matching number' comments on Chevrolet dual-quad set-ups. By matching numbers, I hope you are referring to the number on the air horn ( 6-1299 ). The front and back carbs are different! The original brass tags are different. The 'correct front carb' has no choke and and no holes for the choke blade to mount on. In 1957, there were three different style air valve counter weights used changing as the production year progressed. First style used a short arm and thin weights carried over from 1956, second used short arms and thick weights, and the third style which continued though the last dual quad engines in 1962 used a long arm and thick weights. I once tried to trade a guy who had a 1960 Corvette with mid-production '57 carbs on it for my set which was correct for his car. He had the mid-production '57 carbs which would have been correct for my early January '57 built car. His car was in a judged Corvette meet. I don't know whether the judges picked up on the carbs or not, but I do know that he was an A**hole to me when I made the offer.
I have a .040 over 241 as well. I run a 54 Buick WCFB and it runs great. I had bought a Offy 4 bbl manifold with the adapter plate. I took the adapter plate off and found almost no metal left where they had bored the old casting out to use the later carb. You might want to have the flange welded to give the gasket a chance of sealing. I sent my manifold back.
I"m curious to know how the differences between those 57 Corvette carbs could have been ascertained? If the air filters are on you cant tell about the choke blades. Do they remove the air filters in Corvette judging? Not pickin - just trying to learn something here. Oldmics
I think you can read the numbers on the front right corner of the carb. And, they'll do that at a judged show when you attain a certain level.
It's time to chase a large bog upon acceleration. Carb has been restored & looks great on the outside. Idles well & great cruising behavior, milage. If not the accelerator pump, what should I be looking for? 1955 Packard.
When is the hesitation? (1) From a stop sign (2) Accelerating from cruise (3) Anytime you try to accelerate Easy to test the accelerator pump: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Acceleratorpumps A defective vacuum advance can also cause this issue. Jon.
The weights are hanging out on the sides of the carbs for all to see. Re-pop corvette weights and throttle linkage are available.
Jon, I am running two WCFBs on a 1957 Dodge hemi, 325 cubes, slightly warmed up engine. What is the optimum fuel pressure to use? Thank you, Steve
Jon (carbking), Quick question. I work nights so a phone call wouldn't work out. Anyhow, I have a WCFB on my 56 Pontiac. The tag is long gone. What is the difference between 2364S and 2364SA? Also, does anyone reproduce tags? Thanks, Johnny
WCFB's can, depending on the size of the fuel orifice, accomodate 5 psi without issues. When Carter would "tweak" the calibration, but not enough to warrant a new number, a letter would be appended after the "S". The first tweak would be an "A", the second tweak would change the "A" to a "B", etc. A typical tweak might be changing an idle restrictor from 0.055 to 0.052, or an idle jet from 0.032 to 0.033. Without pulling the prints, cannot tell you the difference from a 2364S to a 2364SA, but it would be minor. To my knowledge, no one is selling reproduction tags. Jon.
Hey OJ you wouldn't have a rebuildable 2x4s with intake. Will need one by next summer to eliminate a late 70s intake and carb on a good wrench 350. Want to build a circa 58 looking Vette motor Before I get my 4200 engine put together. The 350 is temporary. Want a 475 horse inline 6 that I am gonna try to retrify with some add ons but keeping EFI. Need to find a fabricator for some bolt on parts. Granted it will still be modern but it will not look so tacky...
A double four barrel with good carbs is hard to find, I'm afraid I can't help you there but thanks for asking.
A friend of mine has one. It's a Weiand intake and the WCFBs have been professionally rebuilt. If your interested send me a PM. He's racing in Las Vegas this weekend so I won't know about costly Monday or Tuesday.
Wanting to put a pair of wcfb's on our tribute Jr. Stocker. I've got 3 carbs on the shelf, 3-1465 body's 2 with 1672 tops and one with what looks like a 1576 top. Any opinions on these carbs for a dual quad set up. Drag only 400 hp 327. Thanks, Mike
If you get any info on this ......here or anywhere else, would you let me know. Im looking to do kinda the same thing and cant seem to find much info at all.... Thanks
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