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Projects '34 Five Window Ford Coupe Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by MR CLEAN, Dec 3, 2015.

  1. Congrats on finding/buying your doors. I needed a pair for mine and settled for a pair of door shells from a 4 door. Paid $900 plus shipping and still had to replace bottom inners and outers and used 2 door sedan door tops.
    Did you get a deck lid with your car? There's another $1400 if you want louvers with it.
    Floors are pretty simple to make if you don't want or need the depression under and behind the seat. I wanted mine flat so we made 'em up from 18 gauge with plenty of beads rolled in.
    34floorssmalljimmy.jpg 34floors2_12.JPG
     
  2. MR CLEAN
    Joined: Nov 25, 2015
    Posts: 104

    MR CLEAN

    I hope my '34 looks as good as yours when it's done. I was very lucky that I only had to drive 3 states away for the original Five Window Coupe doors from the H.A.M.B. Seller. I did not get a Deck lid with the Car. I bought an original '34 deck lid from a guy in Chicago that needs a new skin that is in the picture attached, but unsure where to get a new skin ? Any guidance would be appreciated. I have heard that Steve's Auto Restorations makes a very nice reproduction Deck Lid.
    Photo 2.JPG
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  3. ss34coupe
    Joined: May 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,239

    ss34coupe
    Member

    Steve's Autorestoration in Portland makes excellent parts. I have one of their decklids and the quality is second to none. Get one and you won't be disappointed.
     
  4. I've heard Steve is slowing down on 34 parts. I bought my louvered decklid from him....he was offering just skins in either non louvered or with louvers and complete decklids..
    Also bought my quarters and lower panels below the decklid, both inner and outer from Steve.
    34decklid11_13.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 and mikeallcars like this.
  5. zeph4057k
    Joined: Nov 28, 2011
    Posts: 475

    zeph4057k
    Member

    wow ! looks really good ! nice work!
     
  6. zeph4057k
    Joined: Nov 28, 2011
    Posts: 475

    zeph4057k
    Member

    its worth the money ! nice clean job when done, especialy for a car like this.
     
  7. doyle miller
    Joined: Oct 21, 2012
    Posts: 77

    doyle miller
    Member

    Keep up the work, you love it when you be driving it. it took me 6 years to get my on the road, that beween working i would a lots of nights. i sent you some photo when i learn how to sent them.
     
  8. MR CLEAN
    Joined: Nov 25, 2015
    Posts: 104

    MR CLEAN

    Starting on replacement original drivers side door that I found on the H.A.M.B. with lower patch panel.

    Door 1.JPG Door 2.JPG
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  9. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,629

    The37Kid
    Member

    Welcome to the HAMB! Somebody better post a photo of that Orange HEMI powered Coupe that graced the cover of Popular Hotrodding back in the 1960's. Your build looks great! Bob
     
  10. ***Area-51***
    Joined: Mar 25, 2005
    Posts: 791

    ***Area-51***
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Ohio

    Lookin good! how are those doors coming along?
     
  11. MR CLEAN
    Joined: Nov 25, 2015
    Posts: 104

    MR CLEAN

  12. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Seems like the 37 build is gone, I wonder why :D:D:D
    If the quality of workmanship on the metal work doesn't improve on this one then maybe he will delete this thread too :D
     
  13. ss34coupe
    Joined: May 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,239

    ss34coupe
    Member

    As someone who has built several 33-34 Ford coupes, I can say you are doing a great job on this project. Bodies that are banged up and rusted are not easy to bring back, but this one is well on the way. Look forward to seeing your progress.
     
  14. Blue One, you're joking, Right?

     
    Bondo Slinger likes this.
  15. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I may be joking here, but I was serious over on his 37 Ford build thread which has since been deleted. (Maybe because it was totally OT with the planned build components)
    It was pointed out to me by another member and I had to agree.
    He was welding to the rusty metal with no attempts to clean it up and then after that he was also smearing plastic mud right over top of the rusty body metal.
    Not great I think.
    In any case it doesn't matter anyway.
     
  16. MR CLEAN
    Joined: Nov 25, 2015
    Posts: 104

    MR CLEAN

    Greatly appreciate all the input I have received from H.A.M.B. members on my builds both good and bad and will continue to share progress on my '34 Ford going forward. When bringing back 70 year old plus wrecked and rusted original bodies there are many different ways to start out. Some builders with better condition bodies will sand blast or soda blast the entire body, but I have chosen the brushed acid wash method to neutralize rust or my wrecked and rusted builds would be a large pile left in the blasting booth. Having clocked over 600 hours of bodywork in a recent build with a rusted original body, it is a fact that plastic mud is used by many builders to achieve perfection in some areas when needed. I am no expert, but still unsure how assumptions can be made of work not pictured, but in any case it doesn't matter anyway. My goal is to simply share and receive idea's with everyone.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2016
    duncan, greaser, Blue One and 4 others like this.
  17. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    There are a few members on this forum who feel the need to fill threads like this with negative comments.

    You work looks good! Keep at it! Hot rods are supposed to be fun! Do the best you can with the tools you have!
     
  18. .... as some wise man said before me ... "everyone else can go f#ck themselves. " - Chevy Chase

    Amen and ... carry on.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2016
    B Bay Barn and 509garyd like this.
  19. rod1
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,324

    rod1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mr.Clean,you are doing a great job.Serious progress in a short time.There are always Monkees in our jungle that feel like they have to make noise ,just to hear themselves speak.But if we look at their examples,not much difference in quality.Nice save-keep going.
     
  20. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    It isn't that plastic mud is a problem, applying it over properly prepared metal is the important part.
    Good to know that you are doing so.
    Share with us your technique for what you are doing.
    The brushed acid cleaning is not something I'm familiar with. ( I always thought that blasting followed by epoxy primer was best.)
    Does it neutralize and stop the rust ?
    Always good to see something different if it works.
     
  21. Good post, looking forward to watch this car come alive. thx
     
  22. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 968

    AmishMike
    Member

    Very nice find & repair. Any more pictures on roof header repair & roof insert. Must have rested on front roof into dirt for a while. Great save - will be watching the finish of this one.
     
  23. Retro61
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 651

    Retro61
    Member

    Good job Mr. Clean, those Doors look familiar-hahaha.
     
  24. JimmyD3234
    Joined: Dec 3, 2015
    Posts: 616

    JimmyD3234
    Member
    from PA

    ITS LOOKING GOOD KEEP UP GOOD WORK :cool::cool:
     
  25. MR CLEAN
    Joined: Nov 25, 2015
    Posts: 104

    MR CLEAN

    Since sand blasting or soda blasting this entire body was not an option with this build, or my wrecked and rusted build would be a large pile left in the blasting booth, chose the brushed acid wash method to neutralize and stop rust. First step is to grind off heavy rust surface areas, then use Prep and Ready Rust Remover & Pre-Primer in a Spray Bottle(Straight Acid, do not mix with water). Keep treated area wet with spray bottle and work with scotch brite pad for 20 minutes. Wash treated area with straight water and use epoxy primer as soon as treated area is dry.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2016
  26. MR CLEAN
    Joined: Nov 25, 2015
    Posts: 104

    MR CLEAN

    Finished fixing the replacement of original drivers side door found on the H.A.M.B. with inside and outside patch panels from R & J Enterprises in Arkansas City, KS at 620-441-0032 Still need to work more on Door Gaps to get Perfection.
    Inside Drivers Door 1.jpg
    Inside Drivers Door 2.JPG Drivers lower body side.JPG Completed Drivers door open.JPG
    Drivers side with Completed Door Repair.JPG
     
  27. Jake Sippl
    Joined: Nov 11, 2015
    Posts: 276

    Jake Sippl
    Member
    from Detroit MI

    totally dig the look of these cars. I really am looking forward to seeing where you go with this build!
     
  28. Avgas
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 282

    Avgas
    Member

    Really is taking great shape!
     
  29. Blakmerk
    Joined: May 15, 2002
    Posts: 320

    Blakmerk
    Member
    from St.Joe MO

    I see no filler above the belt-line. Does this mean chop time?:)
     
  30. keywestjack
    Joined: Jul 14, 2013
    Posts: 96

    keywestjack
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Pittsburgh

    Wow your work is truly amazing. I can not wait to see the finished product!!!
     
    MR CLEAN likes this.

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