Congrats on finding/buying your doors. I needed a pair for mine and settled for a pair of door shells from a 4 door. Paid $900 plus shipping and still had to replace bottom inners and outers and used 2 door sedan door tops. Did you get a deck lid with your car? There's another $1400 if you want louvers with it. Floors are pretty simple to make if you don't want or need the depression under and behind the seat. I wanted mine flat so we made 'em up from 18 gauge with plenty of beads rolled in.
I hope my '34 looks as good as yours when it's done. I was very lucky that I only had to drive 3 states away for the original Five Window Coupe doors from the H.A.M.B. Seller. I did not get a Deck lid with the Car. I bought an original '34 deck lid from a guy in Chicago that needs a new skin that is in the picture attached, but unsure where to get a new skin ? Any guidance would be appreciated. I have heard that Steve's Auto Restorations makes a very nice reproduction Deck Lid.
Steve's Autorestoration in Portland makes excellent parts. I have one of their decklids and the quality is second to none. Get one and you won't be disappointed.
I've heard Steve is slowing down on 34 parts. I bought my louvered decklid from him....he was offering just skins in either non louvered or with louvers and complete decklids.. Also bought my quarters and lower panels below the decklid, both inner and outer from Steve.
Keep up the work, you love it when you be driving it. it took me 6 years to get my on the road, that beween working i would a lots of nights. i sent you some photo when i learn how to sent them.
Starting on replacement original drivers side door that I found on the H.A.M.B. with lower patch panel.
Welcome to the HAMB! Somebody better post a photo of that Orange HEMI powered Coupe that graced the cover of Popular Hotrodding back in the 1960's. Your build looks great! Bob
Seems like the 37 build is gone, I wonder why If the quality of workmanship on the metal work doesn't improve on this one then maybe he will delete this thread too
As someone who has built several 33-34 Ford coupes, I can say you are doing a great job on this project. Bodies that are banged up and rusted are not easy to bring back, but this one is well on the way. Look forward to seeing your progress.
I may be joking here, but I was serious over on his 37 Ford build thread which has since been deleted. (Maybe because it was totally OT with the planned build components) It was pointed out to me by another member and I had to agree. He was welding to the rusty metal with no attempts to clean it up and then after that he was also smearing plastic mud right over top of the rusty body metal. Not great I think. In any case it doesn't matter anyway.
Greatly appreciate all the input I have received from H.A.M.B. members on my builds both good and bad and will continue to share progress on my '34 Ford going forward. When bringing back 70 year old plus wrecked and rusted original bodies there are many different ways to start out. Some builders with better condition bodies will sand blast or soda blast the entire body, but I have chosen the brushed acid wash method to neutralize rust or my wrecked and rusted builds would be a large pile left in the blasting booth. Having clocked over 600 hours of bodywork in a recent build with a rusted original body, it is a fact that plastic mud is used by many builders to achieve perfection in some areas when needed. I am no expert, but still unsure how assumptions can be made of work not pictured, but in any case it doesn't matter anyway. My goal is to simply share and receive idea's with everyone.
There are a few members on this forum who feel the need to fill threads like this with negative comments. You work looks good! Keep at it! Hot rods are supposed to be fun! Do the best you can with the tools you have!
.... as some wise man said before me ... "everyone else can go f#ck themselves. " - Chevy Chase Amen and ... carry on.
Mr.Clean,you are doing a great job.Serious progress in a short time.There are always Monkees in our jungle that feel like they have to make noise ,just to hear themselves speak.But if we look at their examples,not much difference in quality.Nice save-keep going.
It isn't that plastic mud is a problem, applying it over properly prepared metal is the important part. Good to know that you are doing so. Share with us your technique for what you are doing. The brushed acid cleaning is not something I'm familiar with. ( I always thought that blasting followed by epoxy primer was best.) Does it neutralize and stop the rust ? Always good to see something different if it works.
Very nice find & repair. Any more pictures on roof header repair & roof insert. Must have rested on front roof into dirt for a while. Great save - will be watching the finish of this one.
Since sand blasting or soda blasting this entire body was not an option with this build, or my wrecked and rusted build would be a large pile left in the blasting booth, chose the brushed acid wash method to neutralize and stop rust. First step is to grind off heavy rust surface areas, then use Prep and Ready Rust Remover & Pre-Primer in a Spray Bottle(Straight Acid, do not mix with water). Keep treated area wet with spray bottle and work with scotch brite pad for 20 minutes. Wash treated area with straight water and use epoxy primer as soon as treated area is dry.
Finished fixing the replacement of original drivers side door found on the H.A.M.B. with inside and outside patch panels from R & J Enterprises in Arkansas City, KS at 620-441-0032 Still need to work more on Door Gaps to get Perfection.
totally dig the look of these cars. I really am looking forward to seeing where you go with this build!